mr._kenny

<P>tried <a href ="http://www.digitaltruth.com">digitaltruth.com</a> ?

the xtol 1:2 @ 20 c is a good starting point. also remember that almost all films get pushed a bit in xtol-- this is noted in their product description. i've found that it's about 2/3 stop to 1 full stop, depending on the film. one last note is fool around with less agitation, it will make the images more mushy but will lessen the overall contrast. would tmax give you massive grain issues and contrast?</P>

 

<p>if you can, make a clip test of a similarly shot roll, then turn it loose on your negs. besides, i'd be more concerned with getting anything usable printed under the enlarger/photoshop. i'd actually err on the side of underexposed in that regard. not that it will be a problem with neopan1600(640)@6400.</p>

<p>next time shoot fuji's npz(asa 800) color and push 2 stops, it will handle and print much better. i don't know if you can fully compensate for the c41's orange contrast mask and the spectrum differences in the film substrates, but if you have a chromgenic head, go for it. and if you are photoshopping, definitely go for it.

</P><br />

hope it all helps,

looks like a weston to me.

the g2 is a nice system if you can get over the quirks, like the ultra kludgey manual focus, the finder and the noise.

 

my gf uses an m6 but she prefers to take pictures to reading posts!

sorry dave i meant <a href ="http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh6/controller/home?O=productlist&A=details&Q=&sku=286413&is=REG" target ="_blank">the eos 10</a><br />

 

regards,

hi dave,

you're after a digital back specifically? you know, you can use a lens adapter to get the leica r-mounts on eos bodies. no auto anything and stopdown metering, etc, etc. but it will work, and the d60s about $1500-1800 in the usa right now. i know for a fact zorki makes this, i've seen them elsewhere too. i know it's inelegant using a system and a half, but it's an option if you need to shoot NOW and you still have the leica for film.

 

kenny

(sorry folks, definitely not leica talk buuut:)<br />

vistavision is such a cool idea! i've always wondered if a motion picture camera could do that. that's pretty cool if not a bit late with cinealtas, etc. <br />so marc, does the vistavision system allow you to shoot anamorphic-width shots -- e.g. 2.35:1 or are you still shooting 1.85:1 (certainly not 1.66:1?) i would hazard to guess not, that's a big image circle at full width, like a 90mm, and with very slight depth of field. how's it compare with 70mm work? but where these things go, i'd also think that money/glass is no object.<br />

oh yeah, that's some grin...<br />

 

(back to leica world:) so, is that a black PAINT lens?

i'd agree about the 35 'cron bieng the most useful. then again, i use the 35 90% of the time, the 50 10%. the other lens often recommended is the 21 or 24 and i personally think that it's a bad idea. here's why: if you are shooting landscape snaps, you're aiming to encompass the landscape's size into the frame. the problem is that with a 21 or 24 things will be so small on film, it's hard to see all the detail your eye saw in the first place. 21s really come into their own in near-far shots or indoors, but for the panoramic feel shoot a regular lens and stitch 3 or 4 shots together or get an xpan/ mamiya 7 II panoramic.

this used to be my number one combination on a sunny day. i'm using more rodinal (total opposite i know) but fwiw, i found the best sharpness and tone out of delta 100 rated at 100.

neopan 100ss from b+h is great film, and super cheap, but it's not nearly as sharp or smooth as delta.

my times are a little foggy for delta 100/xtol 1+1, but for neopan 100ss it's 8.5 m/20 deg c (did this last weekend.) acros was a real dissapointment. i pulled a full stop and tech pan blew it away anyway. i use rangefinders (g2 or leica) so it's definitely not the lens or shutter.

hope that helps

i use an orange 40. looks great with most skin types. red 25 gets a little chalky on light complexions -- no details-- and too dim on dark ones, plus you lose 3 stops. i use a green 11 if it's a portrait in foliage, 1 stop lost.

i like verichrome pan, which is rated 125. another good film for portraits is kodak's tcn400, the chromogenic stuff. overexpose a whole stop, it looks great. your overall density of neg is higher, but they're still pretty easy to print. it's also sharper overexposed.

you can almost handhold it at that speed too.

hi all,

hcb used a 50/1.5 zeiss sonnar in ltm for most of the 40s, 50s and

60s.

 

<p>

 

regards,

 

<p>

 

kenny

there are like 10 labs that are independent of kodak (not run by

kodak) in the us, and most likely the world, that are authorised to

do it. i understand that there was also litigation that caused that

to happen, as it was a monopoly.</p>

one of them is <a href= "http://www.aandi.com"> a & i in LA </a>

which is supposed to be great. i have my stuff done by kodak locally

(seattle) with like a 1 day turnaround!</P>.

you can bet that if it's an indy lab, they'll do a good job. if in

nyc, i'd imagine that duggal, if anyone, could do it. i'd also guess

that anybody who has a contract with kodak for snapshots just gets

kodak to do it. you cannot just frive up to the labs and drop off,

though.</P>

i just wished i discovered kodachrome earlier...

 

<p>

 

good luck,

 

<p>

 

kenny

<p>a response, then a comment.

<p>rollei is in step. i met with a german rep on a road trip showing off an x-act2 (first time i've ever seen one in the usa) with the back (sorry, i can't remember the back manufacturer.)

<p> the lens was a schneider digitar, used with the lens control s. output was to a mac g4, amazing. 3k by 2k back, using the phillips chip.

<p> my point bieng this: digital is a nice dream circa 2001 for MF, but the tradeoffs are just a little too much for me to abandon film just yet.

<p> i worried that rollei would get outpaced by others, but no worry. things are looking pretty good. until an epoch-making product comes out for imaging, i wouldn't worry too much at all. i agree with the former poster that it makes little difference what camera system is used, they are all pretty unimportant in light of the imaging resources available. personally, i think that when digital comes along to offer the flat-out better alternative to film quality, it'll be easier to build the camera around the imaging system. kind of like a coolpix, but bigger. otoh i think that bieng able to pick and choose the back is a better way to go versus the dedicated system at this point, if only because the technology is outpacing the rest of the systems. what does it matter, they are too expensive anyway!

<p> to answer the original question: rollei is with it. we on the other side of the pond just have to keep up with the continent.

 

<p>kindest regards,

 

<p>k

taylor,

<p>great camera.

make sure you don't need the extra back. you're stuck with 12 (or 16 or 24 or 32) shots of that emulsion. it's not a big deal for some people, but it is handy.</p>

<p>the pro takes pretty much all of the latest stuff, except of course removable backs.</p>

<p>i don't know if you can use the polaroid back, but i'd imagine that you can. you should check if it's important.</p>

<p>it's lighter than the 6008 cameras, which is a plus in your hand, unless you use heavy glass; it'll feel a little tipsy. try it out with the lenses you hope to get. of course it's meaningless on a tripod, but the '03 is so nice handheld, which makes tipsy important.</p>

<p>get the grip for the above handholdability. also root around for a hi-d screen. it's good for about a stop.</p>

<p>the 80/2.8 is a great lens. balances really well, good size on the camera. a lot of debate in the relative merits of the rollei-made vs zeiss-made versions; you can read all about that in this forum. i traded one, i regret it. get a hood for it, it's a really good idea for that lens, the front element is far up there, and it's an easy bay vi external mount, coming off quickly. price/performance is awesome! there are better lenses for the rollei though. it's strange but i find that squares make lenses feel a bit wider in landscapes, but tighter in portraits. ymmv.</p>

<p>oh yeah, it's pretty noisy, but you love or ... <i>tolerate</i> it. if it bothers you, get a tlr.

if the price is right, go for it. i bought an 6008e, and i love the removable back. obviously i'll be biased.</P>

<br>

<p>best of luck,</p>

hi raoul,

<p>check out <a href= "http://www.schneideroptics.com">schneider optics'web site</a> (they make b+w filters.) root around and you should find the explanation pages.</p>

<p>for outdoors, the orange 40 is indespendable for sunny days. i have a red 90, but i feel that it makes somewhat unrealistic skies. but then again, if that's what you're going for, go for it. just remember that a yellow 8 is the starting point, as it blocks blue light, pretty much where 'haze' is in black and white. of course, it will block uv light, so don't worry about another uv filter. a warming filter (81b/kr3) will fake it pretty well</>

<p> another good starting point is the abovementioned yellow-green 11: great for portraits in open shade, especially with heavy foliage in the backround.</p>

<p>just try to keep in mind that you're blocking the opposite color of light and enhancing the similar colors.</p>

<p>mostly why people recommend a filter in black and white is to darken down the sky. at least that's why i use them.</p>

<p>re multicoating: the larger the lens, the more you'll need it. i have a lens for our beloved rollei system (the 90 apo-makro) and the worst thing about it is the super-expensive 95 mm filters! i have found that the larger the lens, the more you'll need to worry about the flare the lens gets. of course a hood helps! on a bay vi/67mm filter, it's no big deal when you use a hood. on the other hand, a 39mm filter, doesn't really benifit all that much.</p>

<p>and to save even more money by spending money (!) if you are using a hood, try to get one that you can use a gel/resin filter system. for the larger lenses the cost difference is substantial. but you will need that hood!</p><br>

 

best of luck,

richard o: he's a good guy. i bought a rollei slr lens from him,

he's got straight prices too. not knowing as much about leicas as...

well any of you, i have nothing to say i'd take his prices anyday!

 

<p>

 

bye

hi everyone,

<p>i'm goin' down to the US southwest next month for a vacation and i

plan on draggin' my rollei 6008 down there.

 

<p>don't need advice about that!

 

<p>what i do need is some experience, hard-won or other wise, on the

use of gel or resin sqare glass with rollei's bay 104 filter holder.

 

<p>check out <a href

= "http://www03.bhphotovideo.com/default.sph/FrameWork.class?

FNC=ProductActivator__Aproductlist_html___44859___ROFHB10444___REG___S

ID=E6B6D5985D0" target = "_new">this link.</a> also, can you stack

rollei's bay 104 hood on it? what about other systems, like lee?

 

my personal preference is for glass, but i find that it's hard to

cough up $125 per filter... but is it easier to cough up $250 for one

holder and use 6 gels or resins? i have a circ pol (b+w) and it's a

big piece of glass. i would worry about flare, so maybe that means

$150 each for multi-coated filters.... ouch!

 

<p>there's also the excellent lee filter holder + shade system;

mainly i am not fired up by hanging anything off the 95mm threads, as

they seem pretty thin compared to the circumference of the lens they

cover, and i cannot find anyone who'll make me a bay 104 mount

retaining ring to stick in the lee compendium.... The lee only fits

the 95mm,but you do get the hood.

<p>

so:

<p>

1. any bay 104 experiences? picture of the unit? with hood?

<p>

2. 4" sqare filter experiences? way to go?

<p>

thanks so much!

<p>

 

k

 

Note: if the story has lost all of its paragraph breaks then you

probably should have selected "Plain Text" rather than HTML. Use your

browser's Back button to return to the submission form.

sorry for the broken link--

<a href = "http://www.ebay.de">try this</a>

Kristjan,

go to <a href ="http;//www.ebay.de">ebay.de</a> (yes, ebay germany, if not in germany in location but in domain...) and search for "baj VIII." i have seen such things off and on before.

also, consult tiffen.com, they may have such a beast.

 

good bidding!

oops. i looks like the site will only email you a list-- and a cascade of new lists in perpetuity ever after...

 

i'm guessing at the second part.

re: ken hansen in new york--

fwiw, there is a website, although i can't vouch for it's contents (or price!)

 

go to <a href="http://www.phototoys.com">phototoys</a> and scroll to the bottom of the page, there is a paragraph that states :

<p><tt>phototoys.com combines the experience of three companies, to provide you with the great service you deserve! All our equipment and service is provided by Ken Hansen Photographic in New York City, a name you can depend on! </tt>

<p>the site looks very similar to wall street photo's site-- probably the same dudes.

<p>in regard to the comment regarding hasselblad bieng more concerned about image quality than rollei:

i understand the main difference is the increased size of the electronic shutter in rollei lenses makes it much more difficult to design. and if rollei didn't give a damn about image quality, why have an exclusive arrangement with schneider? with a hassy, you only get hassy, except for the variogon zooms, made by schneider!</P>

<p>david, if you are going to do macro/product shots, definitely reconsider the rollei: exposure control that talks to the lenses is <u>so much handier</u> than just ttl. true, extension tubes and bellows are more expensive due to the electronic busses, but the calculations are taken care of for you.</p>

<p> also consider that you can get fabulous flat-field images by using a rollei electonic shutter and the imagagon (sp?) enlarging lenses from rodenstock. that is a small sized package. </p>

<p>another option is just use the rollei reversing ring on your bay 6-ringed 2.8/80 and get like 3.5x magnification with all the aperture and shutter automation; the biggest caveat is that the reversed lens will not enlarge flatly, like the shutter-ring/enlarging lens combo or the macro lens. ask around, someone can steer you through all of this. rollei has a brochure, you should email them. </p>

<p>

i am sure that the hasselblad is a good system for macro; the rollei system is flat-out awesome. i'd go with the 90/4 apo.</p><p>

hope all that helps,

 

k

hi zhen,

the el lenses are supposed to be the 'economy line' of rollei-made-zeiss-designed glass. they are optically identical to the pq counterparts. the economy is $150 or so cheaper glass.

what they lack, besides the bay 6 filter mounts, is the backwards compatibility to the slx/6002/6006 family-- they lack the little window that lets you see what aperture the rollei thinks you should shoot at. they work, but you'll be letting the camera decide what the apeture is. you can select the shooting aperture manually, of course.

bottom line: if you don't need the backwards compatiblity, don't worry about it! btw, if you don't need the functionality, then go for it. they are cool esp. if you don't have bay 6 filters-- you can use your 67mm filters for 1/6 the price! sweet!

 

kenny

hey howard,

 

in medium format, the focus is on complete systems. rarely do you run across someone with 2 or 3 systems. you should find a format with versatility, more than any single feature.

i have a rollei 6008i. i recommend it as a good compliment to your leica (it is a good compliment to my g2.)

 

i find that for travel it sucks, it's too heavy. but for practical camera image making, it can't be beat. the rollei has just about everything your leica doesn't have:

 

* auto exposure via aperture or shutter priority with exposure lock

* spot metering or matrix integration (hence the term integral)

* easiest loading and removable backs with built-in dark slides

* ttl flash

* the grip! easiest handheld MF, bar none (i've used the contax 645, too)

* nice lenses from zeiss and schneider, all fully synced (leaf shutters), 1/3 stop apeture control

 

the cost and lack of rentalbility and repair suck though. i take it you aren't a pro; if you were you would be best off with a hassy or a mamiya, if only cuz if they die on you you can get it fixed pronto. professionals need to make money, so that's why they use those. i don't like either system, so i didn't buy them.

i'm not, so it's not so important. don't blame the camera, blame the importers. things are supposedly going to get better.

 

i will say that while the rollei is more of an investment, it has been worth it. it seems weird to recommend an electronic camera to a leica user, but hey i will.

 

good luck,

 

kenny