sergio_sousa

Hi there!

I am trying to repair one of these nice Minox cameras, I have a new batt, and have checked all connections are clean and dust free.

What happens is: the solenoids open and close at same time, so, shutter blades open and close and no light passes by (and no exposure on film).

Shutter blades are free, solenoids work well, photometer measures seem correct, but I get no timing delay for the second blade.

I also tried with the flash inserted to test the 100 speed, but happens the same problem.

Can some experienced expert help me out here? I am a bit lost on where to find this fault... :(

Best regards,

Sergio

Hi there!

I know this is an old thread, but I am in the process of trying to repair a DP-11, very similar to the DP-1, light meter.

With the light meter assembled, testing the batt contacts for resistance, I get more ohm or less If I aproach my hand from the glass or let mor light in. It also varies if I rotate the speed selector and/or the apperture ring conection.

I would say all the circuit is in good order, except the needle driver (do not know the name of the part), can this happen?

Battery test is also dead, I get no readings never.

I opened the meter on its two halves, did a good job cleaning everything, but no changes...

Any hint on how to test the needle driver to see if this is the culprit? If it is, can I buy one somewhere?

Thanks in advance for all the possible help!

Sergio

I tried to fix some more the negative with no success, so I guess the problem was before fixing.

Meanwhile yesterday I developed 2 more rolls with great success. I just kept more frequent agitation. Maybe that was it, maybe not.

Does anyone still have the old dead batt at home? Would you send it to me só I could try to build an adapter? Would be really helpfull :)

Sergio

Hi there!

I have a recently bought Fuji GX680 mkI and I am trying to do some battery adapters using the old Ni-CD batteries that are usually long dead.

I was wondering if some members out there might have some hanging around that are of no use for them, and If they would kindly ship them to me. I would obviously pay for the shipping costs...

Hoping to make a better batt adapter, since at the moment I have some dangerous wires hanging from the camera :)

Thanks,

Sergio

1 inversion every 30 seconds is fine.

 

What reel and tank were used?

 

Was a leaf shutter or focal plane shutter used?

Leaf shutter, I do not think the problem might be on the exposure...

C-41 is supposed to have continuous agitation. I used a Jobo CPE-2 rotary processor and never had an issue.

 

My advice would be to buy a rotary base for your tank - motorised or manual. Strict time and temperature control, well maintained chemistry and absolute consistency is the key to good colour processing.

a JOBO would be great, but they are quite expensive... :(

I think the developing stage went OK however, I think the fixer stage went array. Re-fix and re-wash the film and I think all be OK. Fix time is twice the clear time. Swish a piece of undeveloped film in the fixer solution. In room light, watch it change from opaque to transparent. Fix time is twice the time it takes to clear. I think the rims of developing reel shielded the film from complete fixation. You can safely re-fix in the C-41 fixer or you can use any black & white fixer tor this task. After the re-fix, wash and if you can, re-stabilize. If no stabilizer, that's OK, modern films will be OK. The stabilizer is a common rinse agent like PhotoFlow with an added biocide. The biocide reduces the odds that bacteria and fungus will lunch on the image.

Great piece of advice. I will try later today to fix some more time a see how it goes :)

Orange bars would look blue on the film, and that sounds like damp, under-dried film to me.

 

Did you scan the film quickly after processing by any chance? If so, then letting it thoroughly dry should cure the problem.

 

If there was a lighter density difference, then I'd have suspected insufficient bleach-fixing.

 

If it's not damp film, or loading into a damp reel, then insufficient agitation is my next suspect in line.

Oh, no I scanned 3 days after developing...

Oh well, I used a Graflex with 6x6 back, but this doesnt look light leak to me. If I had to guess, I would say too little agitation, because this only shows on top and bottom of the frames, maybe the contact with the plastic reel has a negative effect on the developing process?

The thing is, I am developing very fast at 38C so, there's a limit to agitation when doing this by hand, but I might have relaxed a bit too much doing only one inversion each 30 secs.

Could this be the problem? About pre-soaking, I didnt count the time, but I did "wash" film with warm water before developing.

Hi there,

I recently bought a Tetenal colourtec c41 kit, and developed my first rolls of c41 with great success. I can keep temperature stable with some diy solutions and using my usual tank.

However on this last roll I got some bars on top and on bottom of frame like can be seen here:

Untitled by Sérgio Moura, on Flickr

Can someone please help me identify what got wrong here? Do not want to repeat this error/problem..

Many thanks!

Sergio

Ups.. i have news...

Went to a local camera store, it looks almost like a thrift store of cameras, and I was looking for large format cameras. He didnt have much, mostly LF studio cameras on a rail, but.... there was a Fuji GX680!!

It was filled with dust and had no battery. I know these first generation batts were not good and are out of stock, but I knew there were solutions to convert to AA.

The guy told me he would trade the camera "as is, untested by me" for a Pentacon Six I had taken for a possible trade.

I went out to think a bit, but after 15 minutes i returned and decided to gamble.

I just got home, connected some crocodile jaws electrical cables to a Canon 5d batt, and "voila": Everything works like it should!!! wow...

It came with Fujinon 135mm 1:5.6 and I am happy and looking forward to film test it :) All in all, I think this was a bargain, now I will try to make a proper batt adapter and burn a lot of fim :)

Now I can think with more time about a proper 4x5 camera, but with more time :)

Thank you all for the help and ideas, and lets hope this Fuji doesnt become a brick anytime soon :)

USing a 4x5 with 6x9 back could work well or is just stupid? A 4x5 Graflex View camera would be a much better solution, yet affordable? How about the super? Are the movements more usefull?

Oh boy... Am I lost...

Hmm the price of the Fuji kit would be 500€ already with a 135mm lens.

Would one of those smaller Linhof have similar price and full movements? Even if price is near, they wont have the ease of use of a SLR, right?

I have been looking at 4x5 from time to time, but it seems much more difficult/expensive to develop / enlarge / scan.

What got me looking into 6x9 was the easy of use and affordability.

Not many alternatives with movements, right?

Sergio, I've used 2x3 Graphics for decades. I'm sorry, but you're mistaken about their movements. The only movement that's generally usable with a 2x3 Pacemaker Graphic is front rise. 19 mm, and no fall. Shift, 10 mm if I recall correctly, is usable only with lenses that focus with the front standard in front of the bed struts. When shift can be used, it is easy to get unintended swing as well. Swing? No, sir. Backward tilt only, not what's usually needed.

 

If you think you need movements, get a GX and be prepared to swallow the loss if it doesn't work out or get a 2x3 view camera. I have a couple of 2x3 Cambos. I've never played with a GX but I think the Cambos are somewhat more cumbersome than the GX.

 

About lenses, Ben, go shopping. The GX has a wonderful complement of outstanding lenses and they're relatively inexpensive these days because they're very hard to repurpose.

 

About lensboards, Ben. 2x3 Pacemaker Graphic boards and Miniature Speed Graphic boards are 2.5" x 2.5". The largest shutter that fits comfortably on a 2x3 Graphic board is probably the Ilex #3. I have and use one.

Ok, so the gx is a winner in terms of available movements... Now that could turn my decision towards the Fuji...

Mostly for sure, this isnt a logical acquisition, but GAS is rarely a logic thing :p

I think I will like the camera, and if it was an easy camera to re-sell I wouldnt think much about it, but if I happen to realise itis too bulky, I wont have a chance to trade it for another (even on eBay it should be hard because ofthe weight/postage, and locally the market for such a camera is non-existant).

Oh decisions...

Hi there!

Oh well, we all know how it happens.. A sudden GAS attack!

I photograph landscape and urban sceneries, I have been using 35mm and 120 6x6 and lately exploribg the wonderfull world of camera movement with my small Graflex 2x3 with a graflock film back.

It is wonderfull yet slow.

While surfing the web I found about this odd camera, the Fuji GX680. It sounded perfect. Sturdy, quality lens, good viewfinder, fast action and the camera movements I like and find usefull.

The downside: weight and size.

I dont mind carrying some weight, I have been seen carrying a Pentacon six + 2 lenses, a Voightlander Bessa R and a Hasselblad 501, but is this camera a true boat anchor?

Image wise, will I gain all that much?

I know it must be much faster, with the graflex the process is focus with focusing glass, remove it, put roll film back, cock shutter, measure light, fire.

To complement my gas attack, there is one available within my country at a honest price...

What would you do? If I buy and dont like it, will it be impossible to sell it?

<p>Brian, thanks once again for the response and good tips... This lense had (and partly still has) this strange very dense haze, but only on a outside ring of the front element. Let's say that from 5.6 to 16 the lens are clear. I cleaned the inside with lens cleaner fluid and it got a big better, but the "haze" is still very present. I wonder if is not glass damage... Do you think I should try to clean it even better?<br>

Sergio</p>

<p>Brian:</p>

<p>thanks for the great tip... using a rubber suction cup (has to cup to the right size) I was able to remove the front element with no problems... :)<br>

That is the good news... now for the bad news:<br>

- After cleaning, the marks are still there... this kind of haze problem has to do with the aperture blades oil, does it make permanent damage to the lens surface?</p>

<p>Regards,</p>

<p>Sergio</p>

<p>Hmmm... that could be the tool I need... since it is made of rubber it shoudnt make bad things to the outside glass... I will try to find one :)</p>

<p>Thanks</p>

<p>Sergio</p>

<p>Hi there!<br>

The kind of haze I have is only around the outside of the front lens, and is very very hazzy. From what I have read on the web, It should be rests from the aperture blades oil. <br /> I know the internal coatings are very thin and will come out if I try to clean it, but paying $250 to repair a $150 lens seems a bit silly to someone on a tight budget like me. Besides, I am a wide angle guy and would really think seriously on doing this if It were a 35mm... (It came with my "new" M2... I really cant live without one!)<br /> <br /> Looks like I have two alternatives:<br /> <br /> - Use this lens like it is and stop it down to 5.6 (at 5.6 aperture blades block the hazy part of the front element) or use it wide open for strange effect and "old look" portraits; <br /> <br /> - Sell it like it is, but I am not sure of how much would it sell, in this condition... (anyone knows/is interested?)<br /> <br /> What would you do?<br /> <br /> Regards and thanks for the tips...<br /> <br /> Sergio</p>

<p>Greetings!</p>

<p>I have a foggy front element and would like to try to clean it. Didnt find much information on the web and was wondering if anyone on P.net has done this, and what would be the best aproach. <br>

I have tried to dig through the front, took the retaining rings and the little thin shim that is located imediatly behind the front element, but after that I dont know now how to remove it (should the glass come out or is there a metal structure that holds the glass tight in there?</p>

<p>Should I try to access it from the back?</p>

<p>Thanks in advance for any help, it will be very helpfull...</p>

<p>Sergio Sousa</p>

Oh well... It is a pitty they have copywrite and is so big.

I will think what to do with it, but thanks for the answers..

REgards