jakegagne

<p>I, too, am a D50 owner currently drooling over D200s, mostly for the metering capabilities with AI lenses and wireless flash triggering.</p>

<p>My 50mm f/1.8, on a DX body or on film. The angle is fantastic in either format, it's tiny, sharp, and feels lovely.</p>

<p>Surely if one can afford a D3x, one can also afford FX lenses to go with it?</p>

<p>I don't have the most extensive collection (maybe 7 or 8 cameras, 3 or 4 lenses), but I keep them lined up on a shelf in my room. It's nice to have cameras sitting around, for inspiration or just for aesthetics.</p>

<p>The 28mm f/1.4!</p>

<p>Sasvata: Those instructions are correct, that's how I do it, anyway. The prices for Walmart are much lower though, C41 is around $2 for developing and 4x4 prints, B+W is around $3.50</p>

<p>Mauro: Like I said, NOT FUN. I'm saving up for an Epson V500 though.</p>

<p>Does anyone know if it would be possible to get scans made from 120 film, via Walmart's send-out service? I have no real film scanner, and up til now, I've been scanning my negatives with my DSLR, which, as you can imagine, is extremely laborious.</p>

<p>Those pictures are absolutely stunning!</p>

<p>I'd bring the 10-20mm; 18-35mm doesn't seem like a very useful range for landscapes, especially not at a place as epic as the Grand Canyon. But as you said, I have no idea how you shoot. ;)</p>

<p>I finally got around to picking up my 120 negatives shot through my Brownie Hawkeye, and they are nothing short of stunning! The colours are beautifully saturated, giving an almost dreamlike quality, and the lens is actually fairly sharp. However, every picture has a series of red dots forming a line down the middle. I can only assume this is because I forgot to cover the red window when winding the film from the 620 spool BACK onto the 120 spool, right?</p>

<p>I'll take some of that Velvia off your hands for you. ;)</p>

<p>Patrick: It's true! I just picked up two rolls of black+white for ~$6.50.</p>

<p>Regarding film processing: Most local Walmarts will ship out 120 film to Fuji, and you'll have it back in 1-2 weeks! And, the best part, it's around $2 to develop a roll of colour film, with 4x4 prints. Black and white with 4x4 prints is roughly $3.20.</p>

<p>So there's an option, if you live in the States.</p>

<p>Haha, Steve, sounds like a very good idea. I'm just going to take a look and see how much of a pain Evan's "zero" adjustment will be. Fixing that infinity screw took probably 20 minutes of screwdriver insanity.</p>

<p>John: This is just from reading the focusing scale, I was measuring about as close to the film plane as I could get with a tape measure, and no I didn't collimate it. How would I go about doing that?</p>

<p>Some of you may remember my thread from a few weeks ago about the uncalibrated rangefinder in my Yashica Electro GS. Well, I never got around to returning it to the eBay seller, and figured maybe I could actually fix it. And I did, at least partially! Following the wise Yashica Guy's instructions, I took off the hot-shoe and fiddled with the infinity calibration screw. It now focuses beautifully at 5ft.-infinity, but at close distances is still a bit off. I did some tests this afternoon, and found that an object at: 3ft. is in focus at ~3.2ft/just under 1m., 4ft. is in focus at ~4.25ft/~1.3m, and 5ft.-infinity were all very, very close to being at the correct differences, only a microscopic amount further than the correct markings. Is there another screw for close-distance focusing? Where do I go from here?</p>

<p>Great contrast in those shots! Very punchy, and as far as I can tell they're super-sharp.</p>

<p>Thanks Peter, I'm afraid I was too impatient, and I just had to break in this new shipment of film. I loaded some HP5+ in without taping the edges. Will the film get scratched?</p>

<p>I just realised I've been shooting my Holga with the 6x4.5cm mask in, set to 12 exposures. Talk about a waste of film. Anyway, I'm not doing that again, so I went to get the 6x6 mask, and it was gone. I have no idea where it is. Can I buy a replacement? Better yet, can I shoot without the mask?</p>

<p>I should get around to buying a Zorki of some sort.</p>

<p>Thanks for all the help, guys! Like I said, I'm a complete newbie when it comes to film. I just got my first film camera in November.</p>

<p>I recently posted a question about respooling exposed 120 film BACK onto a 120 spool from a 620 spool. The ever-helpful Stuart Gross posted a technique, which looked perfect! However, somewhere along the line, something went horribly wrong. (His idea is the 7th response down in http://www.photo.net/classic-cameras-forum/00Rwu4) Anyway, somehow my film managed to turn itself inside-out, so that the black side of the backing paper faces out, while the yellow part (with the Kodak writing and various numbers and lines) is on the inside. Now, if I didn't ruin this entire roll of film trying to respool it, I definitely screwed it up by rolling it inside-out, right? Would any lab even process it?</p>

<p>-Jake</p>

<p>P.S. I covered the red film-counter window while winding the film, just in case.</p>

<p>Sorry for what I am sure is a silly question. I shot a roll of 120 film through my Brownie Hawkeye, it fit perfectly, rolled up perfectly, the only problem is that now the finished roll on a 620 spool. Walmart's send-out service is wonderful, but I'm really doubting they'll develop anything on a 620 spool. So, is there a way to transfer the film back onto the 120 spool?</p>

<p>Dan: The Walmart I go to is in Avon, Connecticut.</p>