cole_paquette

July 1, 2012

Okay, I have a Rolleimagic II TLR that I have been using. It works fine on most settings, but if the shutter is set at 1/60 or below, the shutter locks open and stays open until the handle is turned to advance to the next frame. The rest of the shutter speeds work fine.

When I first got it, the speeds didn't sound completely accurate, so I ran it dry for the equivalent of at least 5 rolls of film, and the high speeds now sound spot-on.

Would exercising the camera more fix the problem? Or does this require a professional repair job?

I also found a place selling new selenium cells, so if it requires a repair, I was thinking of ordering one, so what repair place would also be willing to drop in a new cell?

Thanks in advance.

February 25, 2012

Large format is best described as 'for all intents and purposes.'

Your image is a bit less, but it's just rounded to a convenient size: 4x5, 5x7, 8x10, etc.

December 10, 2011

depends on the film, sensor, and lenses.

if we ignore the lens-or imagine that the imaging item (film or sensor) is looking through essentially a perfect lens, then we have just the two left to compare.

http://www.cambridgeincolour.com/tutorials/camera-sensors.htm

instead of copy pasting and stealing their work, I suggest reading that.

nearly every camera sensor works that way- foveon (i think that's who it is) sensors work more like film, in that they layer three colors in each sensor site.

however, foveon (if it is them) does exaggerate their resolution a bit, but their sensor is closer to how film works.

film? well, i'll choose my favorite film to compare-velvia 50 4x5.

transparency film generally has a higher resolution than regular film, and lower speeds have more fine detail.

well, if you look through all the data and resolution of that particular film, you do need a metric ton of megapixels to get equal quality (defined here as just how fine of a detail it can register, nothing more, nothing less)

standard digital isn't at the level of 4x5 yet-probably is approaching medium format though-I haven't really stayed on top of the latest digital information.

4x5 scan backs can likely be very close to film, if not equal to film in pure resolution, but cost such an extraordinary amount, and are very slow to use.

to answer your question (which i guess I wasn't really) it really depends on what film you are usng and what lens.

but i would guesstimate that for a good transparency film and a good lens, perhaps an 80mp or greater back would be roughly equivalent? I think sinar makes one like that.

December 10, 2011

for future reference, 4x5 is a standardized format.

any filmholder made to specs will hold the film in the proper place for any camera at proper specs.

some small company may make a camera that uses its own spacing and positioning of the film, but for the most part, any filmholder in 4x5 will work in and 4x5 camera.

your toyo or fidelity filmholder will correctly space the film in your camera-be it a linhof, graflex, sinar, toyo, or Shen-Hao.

toyo filmholders are a little bit more accurate than fidelity-they vary less holder to holder as to where they hold the film. of course, the differences require a micrometer, but the better consistency may eventually have noticeable results.

December 10, 2011

Those lensboards you linked-maybe they won't fit linhof quite ideally is because they are for the Shen Hao camera, which uses linhof type lensboards?

of course, a lot of Chinese products can be a crapshoot-they may work ideally in your camera first try, they may need some adjustment or modifications to work, or you may need to go through a dozen of them until you find one working one.

although at that price I'd buy one, if i needed it. if it doesn't work and can't be easily modified to work, then you are only out a minimal amount.

June 28, 2011

Well, my lens wrench is incapable of fitting the lens. So new wrench, reapir, or try a shutter mount. Checked the lens

and it is a 610 nikkor 1:9

Just looking at the aperture and existing damage makes me apprehensive to repair it myself. A shutter refit would give

extra function and use, but would cost more. What do you guys suggest?

June 18, 2011

hello, I just recently got a APO-NIKKOR 600mm lens off of an old process (or graphic arts) camera. dunno which, I never saw the camera.

the aperture blades in the lens have...fallen out of their tracks is the best I can think of to describe it. they also have some minor rust or corrosion in some small patches.

is there a repair guide that will show me how to disassemble the mechanism and put the blades back into the correct locations?

or does someone know how to do this and can tell me?

thanks.

second question: the lens has this weird scale above it, marked with the f/stops of the lens and some other numbers. not really sure how to describe it. is it a reproduction or depth of field scale? what exactly does it do, and how do I read it?

thanks again.

June 8, 2011

you may just want to get processing done through a reputable mail order lab.

I've had good luch with iris photo, and I hear DR5 is really good.

wal-mart may be able to print from the negatives, but you really want to only entrust the exposed film to a pro lab. you may be lucky enough to have a local lab. they won't accidentally open the box, and whoever is working the machinery is experienced in larger formats, so that won't get messed up either.

June 3, 2011

what, exactly are the seals like? you may be able to find something at your local hardware superstore, like home depot or lowes, assuming it's something like an o-ring (even a very large one) or something like a washer.

other bits you may need to custom order from a company that makes gaskets and seals, or make yourself.

June 3, 2011

try finding a camera repair place that can take the Rollei. previously, you could get service by contacting the company that built it (they offered service for any of the cameras they had built). BUT, the camera is a rollei model, but the rollei medium format cameras are made by Franke & Heideke. which just closed recently (sadly.) your best chance is to find a place capable of servicing the rollei. they should be able to fix the meter no problem.

May 26, 2011

well, I suggest that you don't bother trying them on your camera.

this isn't to say anything about your abilities.

the plates are designed to detect atomic particles. they are most likely produced for scientific labs, most likely used in nuclear physics.

these are NOT useable for conventional photography.

well, the ilford website says the fragile emulsion makes them unsuitable. you could try consulting with ilford, they may be able to help you better in this matter.

cool plates though :)

May 21, 2011

4x5 with a 6x9 rollback would be pretty good.

okay, i tried to find 6x9 rollbacks.

i think the adapt-a-roll 620 is 6x9. so is the sinar vario. horseman might have one, all i can find is their 6x12 one. i think linhof may also make one.

well, assuming you have the camera already, here is an affordable (i guess) 6x9 back on that auction site

http://cgi.ebay.com/SINAR-HORSEMAN-6X9CM-FILM-BACK-GRAFLOCK-F-LINHOF-CAMBO-/150606460848?pt=US_Film_Backs_Holders&hash=item2310d837b0

this may give you the under $1000 you specified. so might an adapt-a-roll or a horseman back.

don't bother trying to find a linhof back or a vario for under $1k

a 4x5 camera that would fit the back could vary greatly in price, but could cost as much as the auction film back.(a graflex sells for $300 or less for common models. some go for more)

of course, if you don't mind the 6x8 cm format, there is the Fuji GX680III.

medium format camera, and it has movements. here, i linked a search for them on that one auction site:

http://shop.ebay.com/?_nkw=fuji%20gx680

May 18, 2011

color 35mm, Fuji Velvia is simply THE absolute best. not really affordable though, better learn how to regrow arms and legs.

if you want a budget color film, I suggest you flip through the freestyle photo catalog. they have a LOT of affordable films.

b/w, go with ilford. efke and adox are also good. ilford is (often) more affordable.

of course, if you flip through freestyle, they have arista films, which are fine. not the best, but it's their generic store brand made by one or more of the big companies. cheap, works acceptably well.

May 17, 2011

i just recently got a box of film, Ilfolith IH4 Graphic Arts Film

thing is, I can't find ANYWHERE what the ISO rating of it is.

so I set up a camera, 4 sheets in holders, and set up a LOT of floods.

the lightmeter said that I had enough light for basic daylight, so I ran one sheet at f/16, 1/4 second (ISO 4), the second adjusted for an ISO of 2, the third for an ISO of 1, and the fourth for an ISO of .5

being lith film, it has almost no red sensitivity, so I can do tray inspection development.

question is, this is a high contrast film, how can i get max development using paper developer? it's all I have.

plus, was this test idea simple and effective, or did i not think it through well enough and make a monumentally stupid mistake?

thanks.

oh, and p.s.-if someone knows what the effective ISO of this film is, please share. it would make my life much easier

May 17, 2011

camera builders?

well, there is Canham http://www.canhamcameras.com/

lg4mat is another U.S company http://www.lg4mat.net/

wehman also seems to be another U.S. company that builds cameras http://www.wehmancamera.com/camera.html

now, if you don't mind a company not based in the U.S., Ebony and Lotus both make really good cameras. so I've heard. Gandolfi is another, but I haven't heard much about them.

now, a cheaper solution is to find a copy of Photographic Cameras and Accessories. written by Paul N. Hasluck

Hasluck's Photographic Notes is another good book. both can be had for a few dollars each from Lindsay's technical books publishing. both the books are well written, and pretty much discuss step by step how to build cameras and shutters.

the first book, Photographic Cameras and Accessories, has these chapters, most all of whch are construction:

Modern Half-Plate cameras, whole-plate and studio cameras, hand and pocket cameras, ferrotype cameras, stereoscopic cameras, enlarging cameras, etc.

modifying a design to 8x10 would not be very hard, and as long as you can make a basic drawing on the computer, places like eMachineShop can build the components for you.

May 13, 2011

sinar or their U.S. supplier should be able to get the part for you.to my knowledge, sinar stock parts for a lot of their discontinued cameras and products, or can make something as needed.it won't be cheap, but they'll be able to get you the part.

May 11, 2011

I'm going to agree with the last sentence Richard F said.

Japan is a notoriously tech interested society, and they do have a bit of a gadget craze.

seriously, turnaround time is measured in weeks, not months or years.

product lines are frequently replaced in as little as a couple weeks.

Japan generally has the newest and coolest gadgets, far ahead of other countries, and many that will never be exported, because of the turnaround and such.

one would expect them to be buying the latest digital camera, not quickloads. I would have expected there to be a bigger market for 20x24 quickloads in canada than any quickload in Japan (i know there is no 20x24, it was just to illustrate the point.)

just my experience though.

oh, here's the article I was looking for:

http://www.wired.com/magazine/2009/12/test_burning_question_japan/

May 11, 2011

is this what you are looking for?

http://www.freestylephoto.biz/15200887-Fujifilm-FP-3000B-BandW-4x5-Instant-Print-Film-10-Pack?cat_id=2401

4x5 peel apart instant fuji B/W film. in stock

May 6, 2011

it would be great if they started making quickloads again.

then again, it may be kinda doubtful.

it may be just an idea fuji is tossing around, but haven't decided on yet.

April 9, 2011

Schneider APO-Tele Xenar HM 800mm looks to be close. it has enough coverage for 8x10, unlike the Nikkor T ED 800mm.

if 600 mm is a better choice, then the Fuji Fujinon C 600mm has enough coverage, while the Nikkor T ED 600mm does not have enough coverage for 8x10.

oh, and the Schneider will run nearly $9,000 while the Fujinon will run about $1600

the schneider is really a nice lens, 35 degree angle of coverage, etc. a bit nicer then the Fujinon. good luck finding an 8x10 tele lens that DOESN'T weigh a metric ton.

oh, and as I couldn't find a 700mm lens, i suggest just taking a few steps forwards or backwards with the 600mm or the 800mm, whichever you choose.

April 9, 2011

FLAG AS SPAM.

admin, please do something about this.

April 2, 2011

well, I will try to have pictures. it is just a really small area. as in i'm not sure i can fit a camera there.

[edit]: I an do a shot looking up to illustrate the point. can't get a full view of spring, as not even a cell phone could fit between the standard arms easily.

this flickr link should give you the pictures needed.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/colepaquette/sets/72157626413012062/

April 2, 2011

well, I will try to have pictures. it is just a really small area. as in i'm not sure i can fit a camera there.

ultil i can get a picture figured out, i'll just try a sketch in paint.

April 1, 2011

okay, I have a olaroid 100 that seems to be missing something from the lower support arms.

when I go to focus, the top bars bend, the top of the lens unit angles forward, but unless i hold the lower half of the lens unit and move it myself, it doesn't move.

my 360 has a spring on the lower arms, but the mounting point seems to be missing from the 100.

is there any way to remedy this situation?

thanks.

March 23, 2011

I've seen these mentioned, and my Graphic Graflex Photography book mentiones just how useful they actually are, specifically, how useful the RB Super D is. I primarily work with my pacemaker speed, and I was wondering if the SLRs are something worth keeping an eye out for. are there any problems or concerns about their use? I heard they have a strange back or something. also, if they are worth keeping an eye out for, what model would you guys suggest? I thought the RB Super D in 4x5 sounded nice, but the RB Auto Graflex seems similar, except for loss of flash, but has extension bellows. and to be honest, the Stereo Auto just looks impressive and expensive, but would be a really cool unit to use. if one could be found. so, what do you guys suggest? oh, and p.s.-apart from fleabay or cheating (custom from paramount) where could a short graflex flash to flash (household connnector cord, something like 2705) be found?

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Posts posted by cole_paquette