todd_niccole

Check out the developers for Rollei ATP "techpan."

Here is a link to hypering techpan with an ammonia-alcohol mix. I've only tested the procedure of treament which isn't easy and a bit noxious. From what I have read previously hypered film that has gone "hyper-dead" can't be rehypered so, you'll have to try this with your fresh techpan. By the way, a couple of really good C-41 color films with excellent H-alpha red response that you can try are Fugi Superia 800 and 1600.

 

http://mypeoplepc.com/members/patminton/astrometric_observatory/id16.html

Lumicon rated it's hypered techpan between ISO 250 and 500. Make a test shot of something mundane indoors or out and use an ISO setting of 200 (determine aperature stop and exposure length beforehand with other similiar ISO film or DSLR), develop and see what you get. You should be able to tell if it has lost significant effective speed or has rendered itself dead with a very low density negative. I would do this for each separate roll. I tested Lumicon hypered techpan this way once and the negative came out quite well so, they were accurate about it's initial effective hypered speed.

 

D-19 for 5 minutes should be fine. I still have my film cannisters from Lumicon which state 4min D-19. Some scources I have (Reeves, Covington"?") state that hypered techpan should be developed in D-19 for 10 minutes which would produce a very dense negative. I wouldn't recommend this if imaging from light polluted suburbia but you'll just have to experiment under the conditions. Try a test of the summertime Milky Way, lens set to f/4 for 20 minutes with a red filter. I don't recommend HC-110 for hypered techpan, it produces much more base fog.

Your city may have a household waste disposal program. Check your city's online webpage with services or call them up. I get notices for periodic disposal for such items in my water/trash bill. First, as some have stated, you may have some worthy items so, why not list a manifest of them here for feedback of what to just dispose and what may be of interest of someone else to aquire.

The few remaining film astrophotographers might very much like to purchase your remaining Techpan. It was the premier astrophotography film after it went through the process of hypersensitization. Post a message on Cloudynights Forum, Astromart, Yahoo Film Astrophotography group if interested in selling.

How about going digital for nine months? As I posted on another thread, there are

marketed low toxicity chemicals like Silvergrain and from what I recall HC-110

developer is considered very low toxic to the point of nearly harmless and there is

home made Cafenol, Folger's coffee crystals with washing soda from what I have

heard. How does this compare to casual exposure of car exhaust, smog,

everything else in life one can't do anything about? I would think using liquid

concentrates would perhaps be better than mixing powder; not inhaling sparse

developer powder dust. "I love the smell of D-19 in the morning." Have your

husband or someone else mix the chemistry for you along with taking the usual

precautions.

 

P.S.

Oh yeah, shoot C-41 B&W

Don't dry it on the reel! I've tried that on a plastic one. The film hardens up a makes it difficult to remove the film without damaging it by scratching, flaking off the emulsion at the periphery and even possibly tearing the film.

Rollei R3 film with HC-110 delivers major grain. Try it with D-19 if you got the guts.;-)

Kodak has chemistry to make positive slides or make negative copies of negatives for Tmax 100:

 

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/29115-REG/Kodak_8121188_T_Max_100_Direct_Positive.html

 

IIRC, it is a bit more involved than regular film developing and more toxic. B&H says they can't ship it due to regulations so, you'll have to order locally. More simply, why not try making a copy of a copy in order to produce a negative again by contact or slide duplicator? I know in principle making copies of copies progressively degrades but is two copies really going to ruin an image? For making the print, perhaps a sharper developer for paper or different paper grade would help the final print.

I sent a personal email but just so you don't miss it if it is not your primary email. Unfortunately I just stored it on the shelf behind a glass sliding door in the kitchen. I would hate for it to go to waste if it is still useful and hasn't totally fogged over, I would be more than happy to send it to you for free.

Since Rollei-Maco-Mann has come out with a Kodak Techpan replacement while having there own existing IR film, you and others might petition Rollei to try and reproduce the Kodak HIE. I never used this film but still have a single unopened 35mm roll that expired in late 2004. I'm not sure what I'm going to do with it. It is it still good ... anyone?

Hello Pete,

 

I have never used Rodinal... I just mixed Xtol to the prescribed 5 liters so, I suppose this is straight, undiluted. I had tried it from what I read that it was to give full emulsion speed with less pronounced grain which was of interest for me with Rollei R3 but I couldn't tell the difference from HC-110 Dil B, which also has a shorter development time so, it must be more energetic than Xtol by comparison. Perhaps, this isn't a good comparison or evaluation of Xtol since R3 is just a grain monster developing it to it's nominal speed of 400 I think it is.

Try Rollei R3 film, it has huge, raunchy grain. I have developed it with Xtol and HC-110 dil-B, couldn't tell a difference. With whatever film you have on hand you might want to try a high energy developer like D-19. D-19 and Rollei R3? I can't imagine such horror.

Thanks for all your feedback. I won't try freezing chemistry.I'll look towards mixng powders to use and storing them perhaps in a vacuum seal. Thanks again.

 

Regards,

 

Todd

Howdy folks,

 

I only dabble in B&W photography from time to time and don't use that much

prepared chemistry, most being thrown out afterwards. Can prepared developer,

fixer and hypo be frozen for later use? Has anybody tried this; any degrading

effects on chemical performance?

 

Thanks,

 

Todd