c jensen
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Posts posted by c jensen
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<p>Here are the top two responses you'll get on this forum for this type of question:<br>
1. What is it that you feel like you are missing with the 40D / where does it fall short for you?<br>
2. While either camera is an upgrade over the 40D, the results you will get have much more to do with your skill than the equipment, especially given you have L lenses and a prosumer body already.</p>
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<p>I sent a SanDisk rebate in and never heard back anything. Not even a rejection letter.</p>
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<p>There are plenty of in depth reviews and comparisons available that answer all your questions. BTW you shouldn't be surprised when folks in a Canon forum get upset when you tell them they spent a lot of cash on rubbish. </p>
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<p>I think the kit lens will work on a Canon digital but I don't know about the Tamron. When I first really got into photography a couple years back I started with the XTi (before the XS and XSi) and it was fine for my daughter's track meets. But it will really come down to the lens not the camera. My problem was that many of the meets were in the evening, so I needed a fast lens and was shooting at high ISO. I've used the 70-200 2.8 IS for a lot of this but it isn't cheap. In some cases I used the (much less expensive) 85 1.8 and then cropped.</p>
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<p>Another vote for RRS monopod head. I think its instructions claim it will hold 75 lbs.</p>
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<p>I second the motion that a circular polarizer would be a good choice for landscapes. Many photographers will also recommend that you purchase multi-coated filters.</p>
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<p>Do you have another lens to swap out to answer the question of lens vs body?</p>
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<p>Another reason - demand.</p>
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<p>High quality and creative control - take a look at Leica DLUX-4</p>
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<p>I did as David said and bought the Tokina 100. Also have a Sigma 50 so I can switch between depending on the seen. I buy mostly Canon lenses but there is nothing wrong with either of these. Check out photozone.de reviews.</p>
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<p>I've found the Gary Fong Lightsphere to work well. And it's simpler than some of the other solutions here. It's basically like a big lampshade which softens / spreads out the light. Same concept as a softbox in a studio.</p>
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<p>Thanks for the responses. Sorry Howard, I've could have been more clear. I have two setups - one for travel and one much sturdier (Gitzo 3). Looking for a new head for the latter.</p>
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<p>What's the best ballhead to get in the +/- $500 range? Was thinking Really Right Stuff but wanted others' opinions.</p>
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<p>I have the 5DII and also just purchased the 7D. After playing with the 7D for a day, I have to say the AF system and the improved weather sealing are nice. Sure would be nice to have these on a 5D. Is it reasonable to assume that might be the next step for the 5D series?</p>
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<p>Thanks for the english lesson Ron. Now what professional camera should I get? Just Kidding!</p>
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<p>The Tokina 11-16 is wide and is 2.8. I owned it for a while and really liked it before I purchased a full frame camera.</p>
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<p>In spite of all the great advice I've gotten on this forum, I still ventured down the path of trying to buy my way into being a better photographer. When I scan through photos on this and other websites, I see many, many photos taken with XT's, XTi's, etc; with relatively inexensive lenses; which are much better than any photo I've taken with a 5D mark ii and L lenses. Unfortunately my career doesn't lend much time to my hobby, but it doesn't stop me from tyring!<br>
Start with something lower end and as you progress you'll figure out what you really want. And the used market is quite good for your stuff when you want to trade up.</p>
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<p>I don't see any focus screens listed by either B&H or Adorama for the 7D. Guess they just haven't come out yet then...</p>
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<p>If I want an EF-D focus screen for the 7D would I order the one that fits the 40D/50D?</p>
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<p>Whether it's worth it is really a question for you. Just like with all insurance, the question is what your tolerance level is for being self-insured. Look at the cost of this insurance as a percentage of the price you paid for the camera. In this case - about 20 percent. Is there a 20% chance you will drop and break the camera in the next four years? If less than 20 percent chance - could you afford to replace the camera?</p>
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<p>The reason they are so expensive is that people are willing to pay the price. Supply and demand.</p>
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<p>I own the 24-105 for my full frame, and previously owned the 17-55. With the exception of build quality, I think the 17-55 is the better lens. My experience was IQ was better, and the 2.8 was nice to have.</p>
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<p>I'd recommend the Tokina 11-16 2.8</p>
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<p>I'd recommend the 17-55 2.8 IS</p>
Acratech or RRS?
in Accessories
Posted