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ian s. forsyth

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Posts posted by ian s. forsyth

    K-x in cold weather

    in Pentax

    Posted

    <p>The only trouble I have had with cameras in cool weather is with film. One of my ME would tare film to no end, switching to digital I have had no problems with the ds k10 k20 k7 &k5. I have used all at least -42C with no issue, You might want to take care on bringing the camera back up to room temp, like sticking it into a zip lock baggy with silica to stop any moisture . I have found out that if the camera is cold leave it cold and you should not have any troubles put the camera under you coat could leaves it open to moisture problems. I have had 1 lens crack at -38C smc 50f2.0, one added thing the k7 is terrible cold weather camera to use, the metal shell really acts as a good heat sink making any use bellow -20c without gloves a pain</p>

    Real world photo's with the K5

    in Pentax

    Posted

    <p>It so happens that I had taken a photo with k7 first just to see if I could identify the doe<br>

    It was just a quick shot in these conditions I most likely never would have stopped other than to identify her, it was taken at iso 400 1/25 sec with a different lens than the iso 1600 photo<br>

    I used exactly the same processing as the k5 1600 photo. I don’t know if you could use these photos as comparison I thought it might be of some use to someone.<br>

    <img src="http://d6d2h4gfvy8t8.cloudfront.net/11882118-lg.jpg" alt="" /><img src="http://d6d2h4gfvy8t8.cloudfront.net/11882122-lg.jpg" alt="" /></p>

    POW 10-31-10

    in Pentax

    Posted

    <p>I would like to make POW this week a tribute to my sigma 105 2.8 which was killed in action not to long ago (6 foot drop)<br>

    The first is a Boreal Jumping Spyder k7d. <br>

    <img src="http://d6d2h4gfvy8t8.cloudfront.net/11881817-lg.jpg" alt="" width="950" height="631" /><br>

    Second a Green lacewing K20d<br>

    <img src="http://d6d2h4gfvy8t8.cloudfront.net/11881826-lg.jpg" alt="" width="950" height="631" /><br>

    And the last some kind of fly spying on me K20d<br>

    <img src="http://d6d2h4gfvy8t8.cloudfront.net/11881830-lg.jpg" alt="" width="950" height="631" /></p>

    Real world photo's with the K5

    in Pentax

    Posted

    <p>Sorry as far as the IQ that’s one of the hardest to evaluate. I would have to use the same lens in the same conditions and use the same PS processing I am not into sitting indoors staging trying to finding out which camera has the best image, when I have volume of photos to compare I might make my decision. its round what I would expect the k20 to be and noticeably better than k7 in the shadows from 100-400 and higher Iso 1600 is better than the K20d and is able to retain a lot more detail and does not have the off color cast I would get with the k20d and k7 I think it reacts more like the kX from what I have seen from posted photos. Conclusion I find it no worse the k20 If I had to put the SLR cameras I have owned in order from worst to best DS, K10d , k7, k20d, k7, me super, k5 (could be the new camera syndrome )</p>

    Real world photo's with the K5

    in Pentax

    Posted

    <p>Been having problems with reading PEF & DNG in silky pixs pro software. I have only found PS elements able to open PEF and DNG for the k5 I found a way to open them with SPP, I save the PEF with elements as a DNG and SPP will recognize them some times. I don’t want to load the pentax software to just to view and process the data, so 1600 iso ones I cannot open will have to wait.<br>

    I have found no issues with the K5 as I have had it for a only week. I seldom use AF and cannot say if it is any faster or slow that DS K10 K20D or K7 but what I have really noticed is that the k5 confirms focus drastically fast than the K7 and better in low light and also when used with 1.4 conv. and the 2 conv. As far as processing when I take the shot its ready by the time I tip the camera , when I shoot 7at 7 fps it takes about 10 sec To view the last shot in raw, with Jpeg I can usually get around 15-18 shoots till the buffer is full and takes around 10sec to view the last shot. This is something interesting that pentaxs new Firmware fix will allow up to 18 PEF before the buffer is full and I can only imagine the jpeg will go up also what I think they have done with the fix is allow the user to pick ether 12 or 14 bit processing I don’t know as this is just a guess? The processing speed of the k20d was what pissed me off . I seldom us burst with the k20d but still was able to fill the buffer and I thought this was unacceptable with there fag ship camera. With the k5 I would have to say if I had to give a number when comparing the k20d to the k5, the k5 is 20-30% faster than the k20d using firmware1.00 on the k5 that’s about all I can tell you about the k5 other than I paid $1599 can.</p>

    Real world photo's with the K5

    in Pentax

    Posted

    <p> I just got back today shooting with the k5 and I am imprested. I was worried that with the better high iso performance that I would be giving up what made the k7 strong the 100-400 range. I think the k5 might have the K7 beat or very close which is a big relief. I recently dropped my k20d &sigma 105 macro killing them both and was kicking around getting another k7 as a backup or finding another k20d. I went with the k5 and don’t ask about the $$ I can see when the price drops to $1000 this camera is going to sell like hot cakes and make a lot of people happy. This first photo is @ iso 200<br>

    I will update as I load photos, some at 400 and 1600<img src="http://d6d2h4gfvy8t8.cloudfront.net/11877231-lg.jpg" alt="" /><br>

    <img src="http://d6d2h4gfvy8t8.cloudfront.net/11877233-lg.jpg" alt="" width="700" height="463" /></p>

    Selectable focus points VS Manual lenses

    in Pentax

    Posted

    <p>I had noticed something similar from when I went from a Pentax ME to new Nikon slr with auto focus My manual focus was always bang on with the ME and going to Nikon my MF was bang when the lens was wide open step the lens down 2 stops and my focus point on the subject would shift. I went back to the Me to find out if I could duplicate this. I had no problem than I realized I seen this once before in the ME. When I would compose in dark light areas I would MF wide open to help better judge focus step down the lens and every shot has a back focus issue. I had never run into this before. I found the problem, when focused the len a F1.7 and stepped the lens down 2 or more stops the focus point would shift ( not to extent I see in you photo). With the Nikon the same problem was evident because it was a newer system with AF no mater how what f# you selected. MF work was being done wide open and once you take the photo the camera steps down and I was getting this shift. With the Me it would not hold open the lens aperture, you would be viewing as how the film would when MF. What I would try is to MF during optical preview at F5.6, open the lens wide and take picture and see if there is a shift in the focus point (Doing this on a good tripod )</p>

    *Lets see those water birds*

    in Pentax

    Posted

    <p><img src="http://d6d2h4gfvy8t8.cloudfront.net/11776366-md.jpg" alt="" /><br>

    K7 with sigma 300 2.8 X1.4 conv<br>

    <img src="http://d6d2h4gfvy8t8.cloudfront.net/11776333-md.jpg" alt="" /><br>

    K7 with sigma 300 2.8 X1.4 conv<br>

    <img src="http://d6d2h4gfvy8t8.cloudfront.net/11776352-md.jpg" alt="" />k7 k 7sigma 300 2.8 X1.4 conv<br>

    <img src="http://d6d2h4gfvy8t8.cloudfront.net/11776354-md.jpg" alt="" /><br>

    k7 sigma 300 2.8 X1.4 conv</p>

    POTW 9/19/2010

    in Pentax

    Posted

    <p>I have finally got around to some of my old raw files taken this summer<br>

    The first is of a flycather I found along a back road crossing a creek<br>

    Flycatcher K7 Sigma 300 2.8 X1.4 conv. F 5.6 1/125 sec. Iso 400<br>

    <img src="http://d6d2h4gfvy8t8.cloudfront.net/11657332-md.jpg" alt="" width="680" height="452" /><br>

    The Falls was taken on a trip this summer in to BC Canada Hixion creek falls<br>

    Hixion Creek Falls K20d Sigma 1.8 24mm F 22 13 sec. Iso 100<img src="http://d6d2h4gfvy8t8.cloudfront.net/11657311-lg.jpg" alt="" width="631" height="950" /></p>

     

    Pentax K 20D or Pentax K7

    in Pentax

    Posted

    <p>Does any remember the k10d that went into space and the reported problems of condensation in the camera not being a problem. If I remember correctly I don’t think he was using an WR lens. If there was to be a problem with moisture you would have seen this with the air pressure, humidity, and temperature changes the camera had gone thru. I think this would have brought forth any issues of camera and lens failure .</p>

    Can the k7 handle the noise ???

    in Pentax

    Posted

    <p >I have given this much thought throughout the day and Justin has hit the nail on the head with what I am doing. When I neutralize the High/Low key and Contrast shadow Adjustment in the camera It allows you to see the shadows without any camera based correction which allows the user a better visual preview aid in fine tuning the information you capture in the shadows. I am going to try and duplicate the findings from last night, all photos will be shot in jepg and cropped in silky pixs the NR in camera turned off and sharpness set to default all silkypixs cropping will be exactly the same, no other editing will be done in silky pixs sharpening , NR or exposure control .All photos taken under controlled light The new way I have found to meter I will call hybrid and the default will be called default. </p>

    <p > <img src="http://d6d2h4gfvy8t8.cloudfront.net/10847205-lg.jpg" alt="" /></p>

    <p >Photo 38132</p>

    <p > Iso 200 F4 2sec Hybrid metering, this shot is to be used as a bases to judge any jpeg compression in the photo.</p>

    <p > <img src="http://d6d2h4gfvy8t8.cloudfront.net/10847207-lg.jpg" alt="" /></p>

    <p >Photo 38142</p>

    <p >Iso 100 F4 2sec default </p>

    <p > <img src="http://d6d2h4gfvy8t8.cloudfront.net/10847209-lg.jpg" alt="" /></p>

    <p > </p>

    <p >Photo 38152</p>

    <p >Iso 200 F4 0.8sec default </p>

    <p > <img src="http://d6d2h4gfvy8t8.cloudfront.net/10847211-lg.jpg" alt="" /></p>

    <p > </p>

    <p >Photo 38162</p>

    <p >Iso 400 F4 1sec Hybrid</p>

    <p > </p>

    <p ><img src="http://d6d2h4gfvy8t8.cloudfront.net/10847214-lg.jpg" alt="" /> </p>

    <p >Photo 38172</p>

    <p >Iso 400 F4 0.5sec default </p>

    <p > </p>

    <p > <img src="http://d6d2h4gfvy8t8.cloudfront.net/10847216-lg.jpg" alt="" /></p>

    <p >Photo 38182</p>

    <p >Iso 800 F4 0.5sec Hybrid</p>

    <p > <img src="http://d6d2h4gfvy8t8.cloudfront.net/10847218-lg.jpg" alt="" /></p>

    <p >Photo 38212</p>

    <p >Iso 800 F4 ¼ sec default </p>

    <p ><img src="http://d6d2h4gfvy8t8.cloudfront.net/10847219-lg.jpg" alt="" /> </p>

    <p >Photo 38222</p>

    <p >Iso 1600 F4 1/4sec hybrid</p>

    <p > <img src="http://d6d2h4gfvy8t8.cloudfront.net/10847224-lg.jpg" alt="" /></p>

    <p >Photo 38232</p>

    <p >Iso 1600 F4 1/8sec default </p>

    <p > <img src="http://d6d2h4gfvy8t8.cloudfront.net/10847225-lg.jpg" alt="" /></p>

    <p >Photo 38242</p>

    <p >Iso3200 F4 1/8sec hybrid</p>

    <p > </p>

    <p > <img src="http://d6d2h4gfvy8t8.cloudfront.net/10847226-lg.jpg" alt="" /></p>

    <p >Photo 38252</p>

    <p >Iso 3200 F4 1/13sec default </p>

    <p ><img src="http://d6d2h4gfvy8t8.cloudfront.net/10847227-lg.jpg" alt="" /> </p>

    <p >Photo 38262</p>

    <p >Iso 6400 F4 1/15 sec hybrid</p>

    <p > </p>

    <p > <img src="http://d6d2h4gfvy8t8.cloudfront.net/10847228-lg.jpg" alt="" /></p>

    <p >Photo 38272</p>

    <p >Iso 6400 F4 1/30sec default </p>

    <p > </p>

    <p > <img src="http://d6d2h4gfvy8t8.cloudfront.net/10847229-lg.jpg" alt="" /></p>

    <p >Photo 18912 I thought about adding the next few in </p>

    <p >K20d Iso1600 F4 1/6sec no NR also shot in jpeg and default sharpening </p>

    <p > </p>

    <p > </p>

    <p > <img src="http://d6d2h4gfvy8t8.cloudfront.net/10847230-lg.jpg" alt="" /></p>

    <p >Photo 95852 </p>

    <p >K10d iso 1600 F4 1/13sec NR off and shot in jpeg</p>

    <p > <img src="http://d6d2h4gfvy8t8.cloudfront.net/10847232-lg.jpg" alt="" /></p>

    <p >Photo 95852</p>

    <p >IST DS iso 1600 F 4 1/10sec shot in jpeg </p>

    <p >I have stored the photos in this folder <a href="http://www.photo.net/photodb/folder?folder_id=797505">http://www.photo.net/photodb/folder?folder_id=797505</a> so that you may view all camera data for each photo </p>

    <p >I have sent more time on this than I wanted but I have it done<br>

    I will review what I have done and post some ideas tomorrow I am tired goodnight </p>

    Can the k7 handle the noise ???

    in Pentax

    Posted

    <p>This started out as an experiment to get the K7 to perform better at higher iso and I think I have stumbled onto something. To give some background on the k7 I am running 1.3 firmware, and the high-iso Noise reduction off. The test photo was shot in raw @ 1600iso edited in silky pixs , the noise NR set as low as possible as not to hide the noise, the final photo was cropped down and is viewed at 100%. <img src="http://d6d2h4gfvy8t8.cloudfront.net/10843773-lg.jpg" alt="" width="678" height="620" /><br>

    What I have done to the setting on the K7 is to set the High/low key Adj as far left as possible and also setting the Contrast shadow adjustment also to the far left. Doing the makes the photo seriously underexposed , compensating for this by +1.0 will correct this. Because I am overexposing the photo I had also turned on the dynamic range to save some of the highlights. I first noticed the difference in the photos when shooting jepg but soon realized the benefit in raw also, in raw the changes to the High low key and contrast do not change the raw file but what I have noticed is that you can better judge the exposure in the preview. Simply compensating for the overexposed photo with silkypixs or photoshop, you would be surprised how much highlights are saved with 200DR. I have also had success at 3200 with this technique and very surprised how much detail you can save. <br>

    <img src="http://d6d2h4gfvy8t8.cloudfront.net/10843774-lg.jpg" alt="" width="620" height="620" /><br>

    I don’t think the k7 has a worst sensor but how the k7 handles metering and how it seems to try and control the shadows with the low key adj is what makes the camera worse at handling noise. From the start I had always felt the k7 underexposed photos and the low key adjustment was just a gimmick. I hope that someone else can duplicate this work and that it helps out</p>

    POW 2/28/2010

    in Pentax

    Posted

    <p>I was out & around the local Rockies during the first part of January, dusted off my P series filters and spent the day with the K20d I have finally taken the time to posted them on PN this week<br>

    <img src="http://d6d2h4gfvy8t8.cloudfront.net/10739146-md.jpg" alt="" /><br>

    K20d cokin p121 Gradual & Polarizer filter DA*16-50<br>

    <img src="http://d6d2h4gfvy8t8.cloudfront.net/10739131-md.jpg" alt="" /><br>

    K20d cokin p121 gradual filter DA*16-50<br>

    <img src="http://d6d2h4gfvy8t8.cloudfront.net/10739150-md.jpg" alt="" width="680" height="371" /><br>

    K20d cokin p121 Gradual & Polarizer filter DA*16-50</p>

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