john_decker1

<p>what I'd do today - find a d3s for starters - their price has dropped below $2000<br> and get you a 70-200 2.8 - possibly used or a Sigma brand</p>

<p>you can get a sigma 70-200 2.8 for about half the price and it will be great for what you are doing<br> jd</p>

<p>Here is one from the endline with the 85mm where I did not crop very much</p><div></div>

<p>I use the nikon 85mm f1.8 and the 80-200mm f2.8 - I like the 85mm it gets just about every shot you need. Plus with poor lighting in many gyms - it helps out as you can lower the f stop down to 2.2 or 2.5 if necessary - I try to shoot at 2.8 most of the time. If I had one lens I'd like to get it would be the 200mm F2. All the pics taken from this match were with a D4 and 85mm lens. I have the Sigma 120-300 and never use it indoors. You can crop the D4 16mp files easy and get all kinds of good stuff. Also with the 750 you can shoot in DX mode and it serves as a zoom so to speak - </p><div></div>

<p>I use the nikon 85mm f1.8 and the 80-200mm f2.8 - I like the 85mm it gets just about every shot you need. Plus with poor lighting in many gyms - it helps out as you can lower the f stop down to 2.2 or 2.5 if necessary - I try to shoot at 2.8 most of the time. If I had one lens I'd like to get it would be the 200mm F2<img src="https://www.facebook.com/269814253043003/photos/a.1077345255623228.1073741911.269814253043003/1077345355623218/?type=3&theater" alt="" /> all the pics taken from this match were with a D4 and 85mm lens</p><div></div>

<p>Mine is doing the same thing right now so I am researching on this - any word on what the cause was? my shots are over/under exposed - usually shoot in "A" - aperture priority - but lighting conditions were NOT changing so there should not have been the wild changes in shutter speed that were going on - any help would be greatly appreciated on this matter</p>

<p>I'll tell you my experience - I bought the 2011 introduced model that was out 2 years before being replaced by the new "sports" line that Bill has. I have a friend of mine - pro shooter - who was looking to sell his older version without OS - and let me tell you - it is TACK sharp - I shot it for about a month before deciding to get the one I got - and if I'd have known that it was as good I could have saved $500 - if you can find and older model cheap - get it</p>

<p>i'd say if you have a D5100 your iso will be a sticky point - I have had a D70, then D90, then D7000 and now have two camera's - a D600 and a D3s - all are different in terms of iso - I have a 85mm f1.8, its around $400 or so and a 50mm f1.8 - if you can get close those two lenses will be great lower cost options IMHO And I agree with what Gaute said - get close, down on the field level - </p>