aa2000

To administrators: How can I delete my entire account on photo.net?

I did not find anything here about how to do this. I tried to delete

my contributions one by one (they are many, so the action seems time

consuming), but even so, I can't do it. Every time I push "delete"

confirmation, I get "request error" message and nothing happend.

Thank you.

The fine grain shots from ISO1600 films saw on the net are likely to

be digitally enhanced. <a href="http://www.neatimage.com/">Neat

Image</a> is a great tool for removing noise.

Thanks everybody for the valuable inputs.<br>

Ellis, thanks and sorry for the confusion on 550EX thread. It was

entirely my fault.

err... I mean "watt-seconds"... Seems that I need another coffee.

Ellis, I specified the GN of 550EX in inches. 55m=180'.<br>

You right about the watts-second. Thanks.

Hello,<br><br>

1) From you experience, how powerfull a modeling light should be? I

saw that most of the studio flashes have either 250-350W or ~650W

(at theirs maximum flash output, or modeling turned at 100%). When

do you need 650W of modeling light? And when 250W is simply not

enough?<br><br>

2) Wouldn't be a 650W of incandescent light too hot for the model

or/and photographer? I have a 500W tungsten light and I feel it like

a small Sun at several meters. In the summer I'll sweat because of

it if the climate control is off.<br><br>

3) How the 3200K modeling light is not "contaminating" the white

light of the flash tube (~5600K)? The flash durration is very short,

usually 1/400-1/1500 seconds, which is way too short for an

incandescent light to shut down. The filament has to cool down to

stop emitting light. The problem seems more severe if you set the

flash

power low and the modeling light to 100% (not prop.).<br><br>

Thanks for the responses and sorry for this quite long list of

questions.

Hi,<br>

How many watts per second (Ws, or Joules) have a Canon 550EX

speedlite at 105mm head zoom and full power (1/1)? According to

Canon, the guide number in these conditions is 180.<br>

I found on the WEB an AC salve specification in which is stated:

"Guide number GN: 36 (80 watts per second)". If the conversion Ws

<-> GN is linear, then 550EX would have... 400Ws, which seems a

little bit too much to me. :)<br>

Thanks for responses.

All color negatives are grainier than Velvia slide (since Ektar 25

and other goodies bite the dust). However, with Reala 100, NPS,

Vista 100, you should not get excessive grain. I guess it's

something with your lab, or scanner (or your negatives are

underexposed).

HP5+ in Xtol 1:1 is a great combination: wery fine grain and good

details. However, the advertised time (12min @20C) is way too long

for resonable contrast and density. After several experiments, I

found 9min @20C being the right time to me.<br>

No experience with Diafine.

mine

Cool, F Stopme. Glad to hear that somebody else loves how the film smells. :)

Hi,<br><br>

 

I need two powerful monolights (>1000 Joules each) for product and

portrait photography. After some search on the WEB, I found the <a

href="http://www.patersonphotographic.com/lighting/combilight1.html">

Paterson Interfit Combo Pro 1200</a> monolights to be affordable,

having all the features I need, and taking inexpensive

accessories.<br><br>

 

Since I couldn't find any opinion on the WEB, does anybody here have

experience with these monolights? Any information about flash

duration and color temperature? The producer is not specifying these

parameters, and the color temperature is an issue to me, since I plan

to use slides too, not only my 10D.<br><br>

 

Thank you.<br><br>

Jayme, just because I wrote my belief after yours, it doesn't mean I referred to you. Or you just tried to victimize yourself a little? (<i>"you must be talking about people like me"</i>, <i>"I'm an idiot I guess"</i>)<br>

As for the rest of your message, it's just an off-topic and pointless attack so I'll don't spend my time arguing with you.<br>

Have a good day.

err... "understood"...<br>

sorry

Well Ivan, most of the photos here are so manipulated in PS because they are extremely lousy in original, and the photographer think that by putting a large amount of digital work he/she will get a better picture. If the viewer is used to do the same or have a limited visual culture, this may actually works: a bunch of 7/7 and WOWs will come soon for a photo which have nothing to show but color saturation (often understand as "good light" or "drama") or collages without idea presented as straight photos. People like lies - that's the answer to your question.

IMO, the next finer BW film after TechPan is 100-Tmax in Xtol 1:1, and not PanF. I havent't tried PanF in Xtol, tough...

Try Ilford Ilfosol-S for ->very<- low contrast and almost grain-free negatives. From my experinece, FP4+ (at 125) in Ilfosol-S is finer grain than in X-Tol (1:1).

To me, Velvia 100F was a bad experience. I found its palette simply unpleasant; it's a matter of taste I guess... Now I use Velvia 50 for ultra-colors, Provia 100F as all-around slide film, and Sensia 100 when dealing with high contrast.

I like a lot Ilfosol-S with Ilford FP4+ or TMax100. Very, very fine grain and low contrast.<br>

Avoid it for high speed films, ISO 400 or more. HP5+ is grainy in it, and Tri-X 400 almost unusable (huge grain and density).<br>

As a beginner, I would recommend you HC-110. It's a very flexible developer, and the concentrate syrup will last forever.

Sorry Michael to put another question here... To ones who know: I read everywhere about the noisy shutter of EOS 3. It is noisier than EOS 300 (Rebel 2000) or another low-end EOS camera? Thanks.

I would skip both Velvia (too contrasty and saturated for an "all around" film, and also horrible for portraits) and Kodachrome (little exposure latitude, muted colors, hard to find a processor for it in most countries).

<br><br>

All I would take is Provia 100F as regular film and maybe some Sensia 400 for low light, handheld shots. As above stated, you may use 81A filter if Provia 100F looks too blue to you (actually this film ISN'T cold or blue, but looks so when compared to Velvia's yellows). Also, when "Velvia 50 look" is needed you can use Provia 100F with a warm polarizer - a polarizer combined with 81A or 81B in a unique filter. Pretty close...

<i>MYTH: Film left in checked luggage will definitely be ruined because higher X-rays doses are used for luggage going in the hold.</i>

<br><br>

Well, after I got a whole box of 15 Ilford HP5+ films (ISO400) fogged by a checked luggage scanner, this is no longer a myth to me...

Congratulations, Jeff.

I tried 24/50 before, and now I'm back to 35/90.

I would love to see it, but I'm thousands miles away. Regarding if he shot with Leica M or whatever, I'm sure Ian would have done it with a Russian Zenith too. :)