Bob K

<p>I would get my head examined for spending $800 for a hotwater heater. Lowe's and Home Depot offer better values than the one you got.</p>

<p>Bob</p>

<p>I have found over 50 years in the darkroom, that a drop or two of photflow in a 16 oz tank, stirred but not shaken, pull the film between your fore and index fingers and place in a dust free area to dry.</p>

<p>Do not make the small stuff into a mountain.</p>

<p>Bob</p>

<p>This stuff is online with the mfgs. Take pictures.</p>

<p>Bob</p>

<p>I agree with Dennis and Conrad on the possible methods that you might use. I guess my question to you is why are you going to all this effort? I would sugguest a that you take a roll ,of whatever film that concerns you, use an incident meter and do a 5 stop exposure series. Process at recommended times and then print your results with standard times and temps. What works for you is what works. I am assuming that you have you printing workflow standardized to your needs.</p>

<p>Conrad is correct that the ISO range will be 50-100%. Hmm, big range, try the above with a specific camera, metering method. Hold the darkroom processes constant.</p>

<p>Conrad, no put down intended, but equipment and film must be calibrated together.</p>

<p>Bob</p>

 

Dennis

 

The mask idea was not the issue. Sorry about that. I was able to duplicate your problem by adjusting the strip film offset under frame enhancer section (bottom rh side of tool palette). The default should be zero if not change and resample the thumbnails. This looks like the only solution that the reference manual or Nikon website offers. Further details are on p.73 of the reference manual.

 

Hope this works for you. Please keep me posted.

 

Bob

Dennis

 

Sorry I did'nt seem to help much. I am sure senilty is not an issue, well maybe with the machine. Are you using the

masking strip to block off the empty space when doing the scan. I'll try scanning something without the mask and

see if I can duplicate.

 

Second thought are you importing through another program such as Photoshop, Corel, etc.?

 

I'll get back with you on my trials.

 

Bob

Dennis

 

Are these strips in the thumbnails or in the actual preview when selected? Have you tried batch scanning to see if the strips actually scan?

 

Just some thoughts, I have not seen this problem to date.

 

I have found that Nikon tech support is very helpful so you may need to contact them.

 

Good luck and please let me know how it works out.

 

Bob

To your bw printing, why not make duplicate and convert?

 

Bob

Try going to adjust/autocolor and save. This cleared up some scanning problems I had when I goofed and scanned some bw negatives in color mode. Ellis is probably right about missing profile. Good luck.

 

Bob

I like Preminum Luster, Enhanced Matte and Ilford Smooth Pearl. I have used Velvet but was not overly impressed. Could just be me.

 

Bob

It looks like Kodacolor to me. I suggest that you send it to the George Eastman House, they have the real expertise and can provide the "real" answer. The rest of us can only speculate. Please let me know about their answer.

 

Bob

I agree the lift is pretty much the same. Have you contacted Jobo? They should be more than happy to answer your questions.

 

Bob

This going to be hard to find. I assume you are interested in the rack for a CPA with lift. I took the 3 holder out and placed the 6 bottles in the water bath at the end of the lift. The bottles will float if you do not constrain them. I did get a 6 bottle rack but guess what, they still floated. Try it, I know it works.

 

Richard, let us try to help.

 

Bob

Wow, I did not think that so many of us old cougars were still around.

I went to kr 64 because of the speed and did not see that much difference over 25. The processing problems started before Qualex took over. I have numerous rolls with defects, Kodak replaced the film and processing charge without question; try to get that with the current management.

 

Kodak must retain a viable business model; I believe that they have missed the boat in the digital, they were the first in many areas. They did nothing.

 

Back to the question, the kodachrome issue revolves around the processing time. An e-6 film in an hour or K-14 in a day or two. The darling of the industry is Velvia; that is okay if you as a photographer want some industry, Fuji comes to mind, to make your artistic choices. I choose to use a film that allows me to adjust the saturation, chroma, etc.

 

Bob

Think you need to stay with what works. Maybe a Jobo ATL 3000 if you can find one. See Alan' comment.

 

Bob

I agree with Craig, stick with Epson. My 3800 is my third Espson and I am very pleased with it. I keep my 1280 for family snap shots etc.

 

I have not had any significant problems with any of my Epson printers so I do not have any thoughts on maintenance other than to say that in this day and age repairing anything can be a painful experience. Buy the extended warranty if this is concern. Take time to read the warranty online before you purchase, packing the 3800 for warranty shipment requires a degree in industrial engineering.

 

Paying extra for the RIP depends upon your output needs. I choose to pass as I did not forsee the need for my use.

 

Ink/paper costs seem to be in line with traditional silver print output. The ink maintenance cost seems to off set ruined/wasted print costs.

 

Last thought, if Alessandro is correct that the 3800 will be upgraded to 3880, then price shop the 3800/3880. The upgrade will probably carry the new vivid magenta ink, maybe a biggie maybe not.

 

Hope this helps. The 3800 is a great printer for B&W and color.

 

Bob

Darlene

 

Processing what? I assume digital images.

 

As a retired pro with many weddings to my credit, I think you need to seriously come up with a business plan first then check out your local market. What are others in the business delivering.

 

There are numerous other issues that you will need to research before you get into the business. I would suggest you look under the Wedding section of this website, it has a lot of great info.

 

Good luck

 

Bob

I will throw another iron in the fire. Look at the GS-1. None are at Kenmore but I am sure they are around in Seattle. Big plus is you can go 6x7,6x4.5 and 35mm pana. Pricing is only a little more than the etrs and worth the money for format flexibiliy and larger 6x7 size. I have 2 of them and love them. I used them for weddings, product photos, portraits etc when I was in the business. I agree with the others that you need to lay you hands on what you buy. The etrs is a great camera but consider the possibility of the larger format.

 

Bob

I have not heard of 12 hr, but an half hour to hour in pyrogallic developer. It has been a long time ago that I played with it. Good luck, hope to see some pictures.

 

Bob

Edward

 

 

Not sure if this will work but I will pass it along. I read this years ago from a former Life photographer. Develop and stop film then store in light safe container. Fix when you can.

 

Please do not feel badly about Panama City. BW is in decline for the time being but will come back.

 

Bob

Chris

 

First, there are no dumb questions. I tend to agree with the possibilies presented by the previous respondees. As David pointed out if there was a processing problem, it would have been evident throughout the film.

 

Bob

I agree with all the one-shot users. I like Rodinal and D-76. I do not recommed going cheap on developers. Storing large mix of developers follow John's advice; I would add not to store in frig. Keep in cool, dark place.

 

Use non indicator stop baths, stay away from plain water and vinegar.

 

Kodak rapid fix can be used to save money, keep track of # of rolls.

 

Have a great time and welcome to the magic of traditional photography.

 

Bob

Aluminum is not a player. Made a plywood sink and coated with epoxy paint. I used regular caulk, bad choice use marine epoxy caulk. For the price of the materials, you can buy a 8 foot plastic from any online photo vendor. This cheaper than 316 stainless and works just as well.

 

Bob

You might want to consider Bronica GS1 with 6x7 back and 645 back. Get 110 macro and 65 or 50 lenses and prism finder. Lot of folks provide third party service. I originally bought this system years ago because it is light and provides flexible formats. I also agree with Mark about Maimya 6x7 outfit and bigger format. The cost is really low for both so look around. Have a great time in school.

Never heard of rule#2, I agree with others throw it away. Rule of thirds is a great starting point and appears that is close to what you have in in 3/4 pose. Also agree that a prism finder would be helpful. Good stuff.