seth_samuel

<p>deleted</p>

<p>This is all very helpful, everyone. Thanks. I put some fresh batteries in. I'll take the negs to another lab for scanning (or maybe it's better to get a scanner myself). I know little to nothing about scanning film myself. Interesting about the black point, etc.<br>

It is clear that the image was slightly underexposed, but how I got there is mainly my concern. thanks again!</p>

<p>Thanks Michael G. I may start mixing up my film selection to see.</p>

 

<p>Thanks Michael. I do understand metering very well (i make my living shooting on my other cameras). I shoot on a variety of different cameras, but this one I think I may be using too much like a spot meter. By "metering problem" I mean that I may be using this meter wrong. While meters are meters, they can be affected by batteries, and whether or not they are center-weighted or spot etc.<br>

This is my only leica and rangefinder so I have nothing to compare it too. Does the picture simply look underexposed to you? Everything just looks gray, even the blacks.<br>

Negs look fine. </p>

<p>Hi all,<br /> I have been having a strange bout of inconsistency with exposure lately. I shoot with an M6TTL and a 50mm summicron. This last role of film (portra 400 NC) I had developed at Baboo in NYC has made me question how I have been using this camera's meter. Most of the pictures look underexposed and grainy. I'll post an example below.<br /> I didn't order prints, just processing and scans. I wonder if a bad scan could do this, but something tells me this is a week exposure.<br /> I've had this camera for about a year, and I just feel like it's hit or miss when I use it. Any tips on metering with this camera would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!</p>

<p>Seth<br>

http://www.gonefishingpictures.com/31820025.jpg</p>

<p>Hello all. Trying to figure out if I can run and create new slideshows the only appear on a secondary display. Doing an event where my assistant will be creating and running several slideshows. So far, I can get the slideshow on the 2nd display, but I cant use the laptop or aperture without waking it. Thoughts?</p>

<p>Thanks!</p>

<p>Hello all,<br>

I am going to be shooting portraits at a large event where the client is requesting a continuous live slideshow of the shots projected on a screen as well as 4x6 prints for the guests to leave with. Both these things need to be happening while I am shooting.<br>

My assistant will have a macBook pro and I will be tethered to the computer. Anyone have any ideas of how to do this and which software I should use? Aperture can do both, but I cannot open two apertures on the same computer and the tether cannot go to two different programs simultaneously.<br>

This is a last minute job two days from now. Any advice on what I need to execute this would be greatly appreciated<br>

Please HELP!!!!<br>

Thanks.</p>

 

<p>thanks guys. do you recommend 2 background lights, or can i get away with one? something tells me one will be hard to light evenly.</p>

<p> </p>

<p>Hello All,<br>

I shoot a lot of studio portraits against a dark gray backdrop. Is there any special technique to lighting the backdrop to turn it white? I find I can lighten and darken it a little with shutter speed variation, but when I hit it white a light I seem to always get this large ring of "overexposure," which I guess is the idea, but it just seems a little false. Any tips on technique here? Or do I just need to get a white backdrop?<br>

Thanks!</p>

<p>seth</p>

<p>I am in the same position, I think. I also find that when I look at a digital image, I'm looking at colors, contrast, and resolution. With film, I look at the picture, the moment. Perhaps it does not require much processing...</p>

<p>

 

<p>I shoot a lot of film these days on my Leica M6. When I shoot digitally with my Nikons, I always shoot in RAW so I naturally make adjustments (curves, white balance, highlights, etc) part of my workflow. When I scan my 35mm film, I always hesitate to tweak anything. I'm not sure it is justified as people have been touching up film shots for years. But in the age of digital post-production, I find that no mater how great an exposure, how great the light, and how great the Leica lens, there is always something that can sweeten the image.<br>

What are everyone's thoughts on digital post production of film photos and our need to tweak everything?</p>

<p>Seth</p>

 

</p>

<p>I am a new owner of my first Leica, an M6 TTL .85 with a 50mm Summicron f/2. The price I paid was not too far off of your quote. Jump at it.<br>

As far as maintenance, the second you hold a Leica you understand why people still use old ones from the 1920s; it is built like a tank. If it just had a tune-up it should be all set to go for a long time. Fill your pockets with Tri-X 400 BW film as well as some Ultra Color and you will have the spectrum covered. Get shooting!</p>

<p>Also, any thoughts on that streak in the bottom right corner? Doesnt look like a flare. It was an overcast day. I'm wondering if I should get a print and see if it was, indeed, the scan.</p>

<p>Well, I took it to Duggall in NYC, a pro lab. I'm not sure why this batch looks so lousy.</p>

<p>one more time...</p>

<p>Hi all. I just had a roll of Fuji Pro400H processed and scanned. I set my exposure manually to reading on the meter, but somehow the shadow areas all remain extremely grainy. Additionally, there appears to be a light streak on the lower right-hand side of the shot (flare?). Does underexposing film create such a grain? I thought that overexposing dark areas is what did that. Any help would be great. I'm hit and miss with my new film camera on this last roll.</p>

<p>Hi all. I am a portrait photographer about to shoot my first wedding (a close friend) and wanted some pointers on gear. Unfortunately, I am concerned that my rig is not so condusive.</p>

<p>What I have:<br>

Nikon D80 w/battery grip<br>

85mm 1.8<br>

50mm 1.8<br>

24mm 2.8<br>

18-70mm 3.5-5.6 zoom<br>

Sb-800</p>

<p>What I think I'll rent:<br>

Nikon D300 (good at high iso)<br>

extra sb-800<br>

17-55mm 2.8 DX <br>

70-200mm 2.8 VR<br>

Do I really need to use high quality zooms like this? Or can I get it done with my primes? And is the D300 too different from a D80 to pickup on the day? Any thoughts or additions would be greatly appreciated.</p>

 

<p>Hello all. I am back from Utah and thought I'd give you a sample of what Iended up shooting out there. While I used a variety of different films out there, this one was shot on Velvia 50. Hope you like! Thanks agin.</p>

<p>file:///Users/Seth/Desktop/DelicateArchM6.jpg</p><div></div>

<p>Ok. Before any of you give me grief for that last question. My fiance already gave me plenty. My finger was covering the glass!!!</p>

<p>Thanks so much everyone. This is terrific. I just developed my first trial run on a roll of kodak 400UC i had lying around. It ain't all hype, that's for sure. WOW! things are sharp! im on my way to buy film tomorrow. Going to be a lot of choices to make.<br>

sub question. Every now and then I can't see the "ghost" image in my rangefinder when focusing. Anyone know why this might be?</p>

 

<p>Holy cow. You guys are awesome. Thanks for all the kind words, too. This is definitely the longest thread of advice I've ever gotten on photo.net (and I ask oodles of questions). It seems safe to say that not only does Leica make for great photos, but great photographers with a wealth of info to share. Thanks again.</p>

<p>Also, I'll probably do a couple rolls of both B&W and color. I normally have some TriX 400 handy. I might then do a roll of Ektar 100 and a roll of Kodachrome 64 (just so i dont miss out before it's all gone!).</p>

<p>I have a Leitz Sumicron 50mm F/2.</p>

<p>No worries, Robert. I am, in fact, a rangefinder novice despite my fluency in SLRs. I follow your reasoning with regard to the exposure latitudes on negative/transparent films.<br>

Thanks everyone. My resolve is to try a few different rolls and learn a little. I'll take a DSLR body for insurance purposes. Might even help me meter, too. I'll be sure to post anything worthwhile when I return. Best to all.</p>

<p>Thanks, Richard. Great advice all around. And yes, she is worthy of awe. Thank you.</p>

<p>That was particularly useful regarding focusing as i am coming primarily from Nikon lenses. Also interesting to note how much you support the slow shutter speeds and indoors. I suppose this i what makes the Leica M a Leica M.</p>