Tom Wiggins Photography
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Posts posted by Tom Wiggins Photography
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Lex has it right cost is not the issue; I want the control and instant gratification seeing my images on paper. If I don’t like the output, I can change paper, use a different profile.
I am the master of my images. Tom
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I think Jim has hit on the point. Auto focus looks for a contrast point in the image, I do has he suggested and set the focus on my E510 to the center, that way I am sure to get the subject in focus.
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I think it's safe to say that any SLR film or digital would have a manual mode.
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Italy, simple answer: friendly people, great food, beautiful countryside and architecture.
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I agree with Geertje, Mark and John. You have got to report things to the school, let them handle it from there.
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On the Elements menu go to Help/System Info, the version should be listed.
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Image stabilization is a good thing! Allows you to take photos at slower shutter speed, lower ISO and still get a sharp clear image wiht a digital camera.
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I have E-510, my LCD monitor cailbrated using a Spider3pro and I haven't seen any yellow bias. I have the camera set for Adobe RGB color space, and print to a Epson R1900 Printer. I have had shots of grass, ISO 100, that I though should have more yellow to lighten the green, but I discovered that it's was a bias on the monitor. Once I got the calibration correct, my screen and printer match.
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I had a e-300, and it wasn't that slow. Wonder if you got a bad battery? Lov voltage or current might cause the slow focus. Tom
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Ansel Adams has so many great photographs, it's hard to choose but I like "Moon and Half Dome"
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The color prints from my R1900 are excellent, the B&W not so, but not an issue as I do 99% color If B&W is important, I'd look at the Epson R2880.
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Sorry attached the wrong manual
http://www.olympusamerica.com/files/EVOLT%20E-500%20Advanced%20Manual.pdf
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Sometimes the answer is simple, turn on the camera and check the info screen, make sure the focus is set to AFor CF not MF. I've made the same with my E-300. Her the link to the E-500 manual if that helps http://www.olympusamerica.com/files/EVOLTE-500BasicManual.pdf
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B&H Photo, I use them all the time. I find their prices competitive, but not the lowest, customer service is excellent and they ship most items in one to two days. The on-line staff is very knowledgeable. I been to their retail store in NYC and it's a candy store for photographers, with staff at every turn to help you.
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R.T got that right the JPEG compression is massive. Did you in processing to you try to enlarge image, by a factor of say 10X or more? I've seen similar JPEG artifacts when I tried to do that myself, using photoshop.
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Not very often, I rely on image stabilization. My tripod never leaves my home, and there are times when I wish I had it with me. Guess it’s time to keep in the car, so it will be handy, what a concept.
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Oh, yes the age old question. First make use that you screen is properly calibrated. I use a Spider3pro; there are other good screen calibration devices. Next is to get you printer set up correctly. I would follow the manufactures directions. I use Photoshop Elements and I let it optimize for printing. I find that the colors match perfectly once the print has had a few hours to dry and cure. I find using the ICC profiles causes strange artifacts with the color green.
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My E510 is my third Olympus. I started with a C4040Z then an E300. I like the idea the the 4/3 sustem was developed from the ground up. The light weight camera and lens are great for travel, and the image quality is very fine. Olympus has been know for it's optics for yeard in the science community and the digital cameras are a great extension of that know how.
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I hear the Epson 2880 is a great choice for B&W and Color. I purchased teh R1900 as I do only color. As for Epson cartridges, I get mine from B&H Photo, they ship same or next day on most orders.
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Photoshop Elements is the best choice in my opinion and it meets your price range. I've used Paint Shop Pro in the past it is also a good choice. Good luck! Tom
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I would Google your printer and "printed image life", there are sites out there that have run standard tests on many printers. Remember, the image life depends on the storage conditions.
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Sport mode is CF and I believe it can't be changed to S or M. What that the quality of light and was there an edge, (light/dark area in the frame that the AF could use to focus). I’ve had a similar problem with low contrast subjects.
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Nothing, she a friend.
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Low humidity should not be a problem, remember, they pack a new lens with desiccant to keep it dry.
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