tom_berkowski

<p>Thanks, Sarah. I'll plan accordingly and do this when I have time to reprogram. I once sent my body in for service to Canon, and it came back with total amnesia. I had to re-upload custom picture styles and CF settings.</p>

<p>I realized I can save time when I need to note all CF settings by looking at data in DPP where it tells all CF settings for that image. That way, I don't have to use the body to scroll through each CF setting one-at-at-time.</p>

<p>Thanks, Sarah. I'll do that. I know I can go through custom functions pretty easily, noting option selected for each of the CF. </p>

<p>Is there a way to find all the settings for "C"? I realized it records almost everything (like minutes before going into sleep mode which can be different in C vs. all others). I've repeatedly done "register camera settings" every time I figure out I wanted someting in C, so it would be good to know what those were. </p>

<p>I doubt there's a quick way to know all the C settings, but I figured I'd ask.</p>

<p>Also, is battery removal going to make me upload custom picture settings again?</p>

 

<p>That makes sense, but if that's the benefit, I'll put up with doing a Av to M to Av switch to get power.</p>

<p>I have the on/off switch taped in on position so that I don't accidentally turn it off when it bouces around my body. That happened a lot before I taped it. If I go back to on/off untaped, I know I'll accidentally turn off the back dial a lot, which will cause me inconvenience when shooting (such as unexpectedly not being able to +/- exposure in Av). I'd rather have my inconvenience during battery change, a lot less frequent. </p>

<p>I suppose I could also untape, retape more often, but that's anther inconvenience.</p>

 

<p>If the coin battery were dead, I wouldn't have the right time/date (which I do), so I don't think that's it. Still, it's a cheap & easy thing to do so it's worth a try.</p>

<p>What good would it do to turn body off? I know batteries would last longer, but my problem happens when I replace a low battery with a fully charged full battery.</p>

<p>I always keep my 5D (original) in on position. Lately when I change battery, I do not have immediate power. Even when I press shutter or other button (like when getting out of sleep mode), I don't get power. I have to switch from Av to M then back again to get power, then I'm fine until I change batteries again.</p>

<p>I'm almost positive this is a new experience. I have had this body for 3 year.</p>

<p>This happens on different batteries, so I don't think it's a battery thing.</p>

<p>This is a minor annoyance since it only happens when I change batteries, but any idea how I can fix?</p>

<p>How about keeping your 30D cropped frame body, buying a 24L lens? That will give you equivilant to 35 mm. I'd think about this especially if you will use a 24 for the intended angle (24 mm focal length on a 35 mm body) when you eventually go full frame in the future. </p>

<p> </p>

<p>I'm using DPP right now in Edit window, and I agree that it would be great to see basic shooting info right below the picture I'm looking at. apeture, shutter speed, maybe ISO. I"m not dying w/o it since I can hit CTRL-I, but now that Mark points it out, I agree.</p>

<p>Mark,</p>

<p>To get shooting info, I push CTRL+I. I'm not familiar with the different screen names (edit, main) , but that works wherever I need to check. </p>

<p>I also noticed 1-5 check mark. I've always used 1 for Keep, 3 for delete, then 2 when I finished all recipies on items previously marked 1. I'll see if there's something I can use 4 and 5. </p>

<p>I wonder if the new version crashes less than current version. I experience frequent crashing on current version. Previous version did not crash. No one else on this site reported that problem. It must just be my setup, but it's the only computer I have. </p>

<p>Robin's response seems like the right answer. I can make auto power off as high as 30 minutes. I will drain the battery more, but this is probably the right trade off.<br>

To other responder, my camera only has one custom setting ©. Maybe 1-series bodies have multiple? Anyway, I only have one. <br>

I don't think registering Av setting will be good for me. Basically, I usually use Av, but for the situations where there is tricky lighting, I want to set exposure on M. In those situations, I also want to "manually" focus camera, really using back * button (CF4-1) whenever I want to change focus. That's why I registered camera settings with the M/CF4-1 combination.<br>

Thanks for the answers.</p>

<p>I usually shoot Av with CF4-0. However, there are times I want CF4-1 and manual settings, for example when I am shooting my child on left side with lots of light in middle that would give wrong exposure reading. (I have a 5D original.)</p>

<p>I to facilitate switch from Av/CF4-0 to M/CF4-1, I registered settings so can just switch to C. Great so far, but one issue.</p>

<p>Registered setting is f/2.8, 1/800 of second. If two kids come in the picture and I want f/5.6 1/200, I can make that change on C. Still good.</p>

<p>Issue. If I put my camera aside for a couple minutes, when I pick it back up, it switches back to f/2.8 1/800 second. </p>

<p>Is there a better solution? I figured I can "register settings" again at f/5.6, but if I have to go through all that trouble, I might as well just switch to M, CF4-1. Any better ideas?</p>

<p>Thanks.</p>

<p>I have a Contax N 50 1.4 converted to Canon EOS mount by Conurus (<a href="http://en.conurus.com/faq.html">http://en.conurus.com/faq.html</a>), so it autofocuses and has camera-control apeture. I have used Canon 50 1.4 and Canon 50 1.2. I haven't used either of the Canons at the same time as my Contax so I can only depend on my memory.<br>

In my experience:<br>

- Contax N autofocuses better than Canon 50 1.4.<br>

- Contax N autofocuses slower than Canon 50 1.2. Canon 50 1.2 was not perfect with focus, though, even though it was fast. I missed some shots w/50 1.2. Not a huge problem, but not what I expected given price.<br>

- Image quality (no scientific brick wall testing, just my impressions) wasn't big an issue with any of the 3. They're all good and not a limiting factor. But, in my observation:<br>

3rd: Canon 50 1.4<br>

2nd: Contax N 50 (better contrast, sharper than above)<br>

1st: Canon 50 1.2L. (only slightly better in my opinion because out of focus is smoother than Conax N 50. Smooth or star-shaped is a matter of taste of course.) Overall, Contax, though has a unique look. I don't think you'll get an argument from anyone.<br>

Build quality: Canon L best, Contax 2nd, Canon 1.4 much lower. <br>

So this is one person's opinion, one focal length. Probably not all that useful since most will consider ZE rather than Contax N vs. Canon.</p>

<p>Thanks for the responses. I will have to check Task Manager to see what I can eliminate and try ReadyBoost. I do work from folders which typically have 100+ photos. This wasn't an issue with last version of DPP, but maybe I'll try dividing into multiple folders to see if that works. <br>

No one has suggested my system is too weak, so this issue seems like it can be resolved.</p>

<p>I like that the angle adjustment is there too. My minor complaint is how they integrate into trimming. I got very accustomed to trimming one file after another with simple mouse operation. Now I occationally start angle adjustment when I don't want to, have to cancel & start again.</p>

<p>Anyone else experience these problems with 3.8.0? I upgraded from prev version, but new version came with these problems:<br />- Freezes when in edit image window. This happens a lot--like every other day. When it happens, it's when I'm pressing next image (down arrows).<br />- Much slower all around, most annoying in quick check.<br />I have this computer:<br />- Core 2 Quad Q9300 @ 2.25 GHz<br />- 3.00 GB<br />- Windows Vista Home Premium</p>

<p>These problems occur whether or not I have anything else open. I know there are things running in background, but I recently cleaned up some obvious things that do not need to be loaded, like Quicktime, iTunes.</p>

<p>If you have experienced these and have found a way to fix, let me know.</p>

<p>There are other minor annoyances if Canon is taking notes:<br />- Trimming/angle adjustment "okay" & "cancel" buttons moved to a terrible place. It was previously below "next," now it's way down at the bottom.<br />- Also on trimming/angle adjustment, it's too easy to rotate when all you really want to do is crop/trim. I'm glad to have angle adjustment, but I think for most people it will be rare to need to use. (I have only needed to use once.)</p>

<p>Should have said underexposed. </p>

<p>I used M a lot when I shot film until 2 years ago. I used a handheld light meter to get metering right (couldn't check the back of the camera.)<br>

I have recently started using M more & more. Here is a common scenario:<br>

Taking multiple outdoor pictures of a person standing. Subject is on left side of horizontal composition. Middle of frame is very well light. I use Av for first few pictures and middle focus point. I focus/set exposure by pressing half way, then recompose. I find correct exposure is 2.8; 1/400 second. <br>

If I keep focus point in middle, I'll have to recompose a million times and in my experience, in recomposing, focus doesn't always work that well.<br>

If I change focus point to left (where subject is), Av exposure will still get set by middle point (on 5D), so it will say something like 2.8; 1/8000 second and still will be overexposed.<br>

Instead, I switch to M, set at 2.8; 1/400 second. I switch focus point to right. I then get correct exposure and up-to-date focusing.<br>

If there is a better way to do it, I would appreciate any advice. I know 1Ds has spot metering with any focus point, so this technique wouldn't be needed.</p>

<p> </p>

<p>Yes, have used & recommend. Lens (50 1.2L) was in like new condition, much better condition than others I have rented from (two other vendors I can remember off top of my head).</p>

<p>No, it was already set to off. I don't have a huge issue with buffer speed, but those few occasions when I want to fire away, I do notice a lag. Nothing to complain about, but when I saw the discussion I thought it was worth a shot to improve by turning off a CF I don't need.</p>

<p>I did turn it on & try just for kicks, and I can really see a difference.</p>

<p>Answering my own question:</p>

<li><strong>C.Fn-20 Add original decision data</strong>: Appends original data verification to the image files. Canon's optional Data Verification Kit can then be used to verify that the image data wasn't modified after being captured by the camera.

<ul>

<li><em>0</em>: Off. </li>

<li><em>1</em>: On. </li>

</ul>

</li>

<p>I'm not law enforcement so don't need. I'll turn off if it's on.</p>

<p>What Custom Function # is "'Add original decision data"? I'm at work but want to change when I get home if it really speeds things up. I also didn't even know it existed. What does it do?</p>

<p>I have used both and they are very similar (both excellent). In another discussion, someone called them twins that grew unevenly, which I think is accurate.</p>

<p>I now own the 100mm and have a 50 mm, and I find that spacing between the two to be good for me, as someone else pointed out above.</p>

<p>If you're shooting sports from a distance, I think 100 would be better than 85. Do you currently use a zoom to cover these events or just your 50? If you use a zoom, check which length is closest to what you use most often in these situations.</p>

<p>I would like to take two b&w digital images, position how I'd like, add some text. I want to save this to a single JPG that can be printed on 5x7 Ilford B&W paper by MPIX. I don't want the 4x8 holiday templates that many sites have...too limiting and I don't want 4x8 color paper output. But at the same time, I don't want to learn Photoshop just for this purpose.</p>

<p>Any suggestions?</p>

<p>Thanks for suggestions. Therpist is common recommendation, so I'll look into it. <br>

Yes, I think vertical orientation is my biggest strain, especially when doing it one-handed. I may try a vertical grip.</p>

<p>I have tendonitis in right wrist, forearm and would like to find a better way to grip. I have been using 5D for about 2 years, film EOS for many years before. Here is how I have been doing things for at least 10 years:<br>

REGULAR LANDSCAPE FORMAT<br>

- Body supported by left palm. Left fingers support lens. <br>

- Left thumb & middle finger adjust focus ring. (rarely)<br>

- Left thumb & index finger zoom (very rarely use zoom lens anymore)<br>

- Right third finger in the indentation on the grip area.<br>

- Right middle finger on the shutter button<br>

- Right index finger on the dial<br>

- Right thumb used for back dial when needed, but usually kept near top</p>

<p>ONE HANDED LANDSCAPE FORMAT<br>

- Use right third & fourth fingers plus thumb to support body. Fingers as above.</p>

<p>REGULAR PORTRAIT FORMAT (VERTICAL, but I don't have a vertical grip)<br>

- Left side of body is now at bottom. Left side of body (now at bottom) is supported by left palm. Left fingers support lens. <br>

- Left thumb & middle finger adjust focus ring. (rarely)<br>

- Left thumb & index finger zoom (very rarely use zoom lens anymore)<br>

- Right third finger in the indentation on the grip area.<br>

- Right middle finger on the shutter button<br>

- Right index finger on the dial<br>

- Right thumb used for back dial when needed, but usually kept near top</p>

<p>ONE HANDED PORTRAIT FORMAT (Vertical) <br>

- Left side of body is now at bottom. Body is supported by right thumb, third & fourth fingers, which are on the right side (now at the top)<br>

- Right middle finger on the shutter button (as above)<br>

- Right index finger on the dial (as above)<br>

Note, this really, really hurts these days.</p>

<p>Another thing I noticed is that I pick up body from the shelf with right hand. I"ll have to start changing that. Maybe grab by lens with my left hand?</p>

<p>Any suggestions appreciated.</p>

<p>In addition to what everyone has written, I also suggest focusing on ears or other contrasty lines. If he had a music holder close to his head, I'd use that. In my experience, eyes can be difficult for lenses to stay on (but of course eyes are usually what you most want in focus.)</p>