tom_berkowski

<p>I also never understood these descriptions. I finally figured out all I need to know is CF4-1 is back button focus with the * button. (I have a 5D original model.)</p>

<p>I either use CF4-1 with full manual exposure to set focus periodically when shooting mutiple shots of simlar subject, or I use CF4-0 for all other situations.</p>

<p> </p>

<p>Thanks, Ellis</p>

<p>I've learned a lot about indoor flash or other scenarios where I can keep shutter speed 1/160 or so or below, but I have a lot to learn about flash fill. I know this must be in manuals, but I can't find them.<br>

My Equipment: 5D (original), 430exII (2), PW MiniTT1, AC3, FlexTT5 (2)</p>

<p><strong>Scenario 1</strong><br>

430exII directly on hotshoe, no PocketWizard. Outdoor sunlight, want flash fill using ETTL. Manual exposure say f/4.0; 1/500. <br>

I just hit the HSS button on back of Speedlight, right?</p>

<p><strong>Scenario 2</strong><br>

430exII directly on hotshoe, no PocketWizard. Outdoor sunlight, want flash fill but want to set manual flash power for consistency. Manual exposure say f/4.0; 1/500. <br>

Can I just hit the HSS button on back of Speedlight, change flash mode to M for manual flash power setting and HSS? (Does HSS work with manual speedlite power setting?)</p>

<p><strong>Scenario 3</strong><br>

Using off shoe speedlites. MiniTT1 and AC3 on hotshoe. Outdoor sunlight, want flash fill using ETTL. Manual exposure say f/4.0; 1/500. <br>

Do I leave HSS buttons on back of Speedlites off? (Will PW automatically switch to HSS or whatever it's called?)</p>

<p><strong>Scenario 4</strong><br>

Using off shoe speedlites. MiniTT1 and AC3 on hotshoe. Outdoor sunlight, want flash fill but want to set manual flash power for consistency. Manual exposure say f/4.0; 1/500. <br>

For manual power with AC3 ZoneContoller, I leave Speedlites on ETTL but shift AC3 to "M." Do I leave HSS buttons on back of Speedlites off? (Will PW automatically switch to HSS or whatever it's called? Does HSS work in Manual speedlite power setting?)</p>

<p>No issue with printing quality. They're great. My problems.<br>

1) Processing time was a little slower.<br>

2) Their paper cutter didn't cut correctly, so I had an undesired uneven white border at the bottom of prints. This happened on two recent orders. They reprinted & resent.</p>

<p>I still like MPIX, but less-than-perfect makes me want to try some others. </p>

<p>I started giving all my Ilford "true" B&W print work to MPIX for after I couldn't get that service anymore from Adoramapix. (I previously split between the two.)<br>

I have generally had good experience with MPIX, but they've given me a few "less than perfect" experiences lately which make me want to seek alternatives. Any alternatives to suggest? I have only used MPIX, Adoramapix and Photoworks locally here in SF for "true" Ilford B&W. (I like Photoworks quality, but they aren't quick and schlepping across town & trying to find parking in the Castro is more difficult than getting mail order. If I lived closer, I wouldn't even ask the question.)</p>

<p>I saw something about <a href="http://www.digitalsilverimaging.com/directtoprint">http://www.digitalsilverimaging.com/directtoprint</a> but haven't used them. Anyone have experience? Any others?</p>

<p>Thanks for any input.</p>

I learned something: that I can change focus points with either dial (dial near shutter or dial to right of LCD screen). I have

always done it with dial near LCD screen, and I'm sure it will be easier with the dial on top near shutter release button. I didn't know I had a choice.

Anyway, how it applies to you: maybe the gaffers tape may be the right solution. Tape the top dial after you set shutter speed. Then

use the back dial near LCD screen to change focus point. It's may be less ergonomic to shift focus points this way but I can attest

that it works. I've been doing it for years without knowing I had a choice.

Other downside to gaffers tape is that dial near LCD isn't secured so you could accidentally shift, but that would adjust aperture. While

not good for proper exposure at least it wouldn't give the black bands of going up to 1/1000 or whatever.

<p>I have owned 100 f2 for 5 years. Image quality is excellent...sharpness, out of focus blur.<br>

I have rented 135 f2. Image quality is excellent, better. Out of focus blur is great. I rented the 1.4x extender, and it gives additional versatility to get 189 focal length. (Someone else mentioned above.)<br>

In my opinion, image quality alone is not a deciding factor between the two as 100 excels in image quality.<br>

If I had to do it all over again, I'd buy a 135L paired with an 85 focal length, but that is entirely due to focal length versalility with extender. (85/135/189)<br>

As it is, I can't justify purchasing the 135L/85 pair since the 100 works fine for me. Even build quality is fine for me; it's survived some rough handling. </p>

<p>You're right. They both work if done clockwise. MiniTT1 also works counterclockwise on my hotshoe.</p>

<p>I bought them used, so something could have been done with the previous owner.</p>

<p>They have worked great for me, by the way. I like PW in general for manual studio-type things, ability to use Sekonic, etc. TTL option is something worth having for those moments when you don't have time to meter, adjust flash power etc. (I have kids...)</p>

<p>I noticed I typed incorrectly. It should have been:</p>

<p>Maybe I'm doing this wrong, but it seems like:<br />- MiniTT1 onto camera's hotshoe: counterclockwise when viewed from above<br />- FlexTT5 onto flash's included plastic cold shoe stand: <strong>clockwise </strong>when viewed from above<br />- FlexTT5 onto umbrella cold shoe mount: don't really know as I use cold shoe to secure<br />Seems strange that one would go clockwise while another goes counterclockwise. Any insight?</p>

<p>Dumb question, but I wonder which direction I twist to tighten the FlexTT5 and MiniTT1 to hotshoe/cold shoe.<br>

Maybe I'm doing this wrong, but it seems like:<br>

- MiniTT1 onto camera's hotshoe: counterclockwise when viewed from above<br>

- FlexTT5 onto flash's included plastic cold shoe stand: <strong>counter</strong>clockwise when viewed from above<br>

- FlexTT5 onto umbrella cold shoe mount: don't really know as I use cold shoe to secure<br>

Seems strange that one would go clockwise while another goes counterclockwise. Any insight?</p>

<p>I am trying to choose a website name. Site will have portfolio, contact information for photography services.<br>

Should I go with<br>

1) ___photo.com<br>

2) ___photography.com<br>

3) ___.com<br>

I could register all three but would prefer to save the extra annual cost if they are unnecessary.<br>

__photography and __photo both suggest photography-related, but __photo to me seems like equipment retailing site. However, __photography has more keyboard strokes.</p>

<p>Any input?</p>

<p>WW's comment above is very insightful. My old Gossen was perfect in that way. Once EV was measured, I would turn the dial, get a match of apeture and shutter, just eyeballing something between say 2.8 and 4, for example or between 1/500 and 1/250. I loved that about my Gossen meter.<br>

AB's also makes sense to me. Exposure compesation when on Av mode was always much easier when I moved to 1/3 stops from 1/2 the first time, at slight expense of M ease. One of my kids has skin that would meter on +1/3 on reflective spot metering most of the time. I know 1/2 stop gives pretty much the same thing, but 1/3 seemed very nice.<br>

For those who are care, Sekonic's 1/2 stop conventions are:<br>

1.4, 1.7, 2.0, 2.4, 2.8, 3.4,4.0, 4.8, 5.6, 6.7, 8, 9.5, 11<br>

By the 1.7 vs. 1.8 (canon); 2.4 vs. 2.5 (canon), 3.4 vs. 3.5 (canon) and 4.8 vs. 4.5 (canon), you might be able to see why I found Sekonic 1/2 stops to be a bit unfamiliar, taking an extra second of mental calculation when I'd rather not spend the time.</p>

<p>Thanks everyone, I'm moving back to 1/3 stops as soon as I find my manual and figure out CF#.</p>

Thanks. WW seems to have read my mind again on this question.

To be clear, I know small stops don't mean a thing. I am looking for ease of use.

Sekonic 1/3 stop conventions are 1.4, 1.6, 1.8 2.0 2.2 2.5 2.8. 3.2 3.6 4.0.

I m pretty sure those match with exception of 3.6. Which of If I remember correctly, canon uses 3.5. ( I have to

remember which c f to change back. ). Sekonic s half stop are more different. Just causes mental disconnect, I know

nothing real.

Seems like I will change back, with only downside of needing more clicks to move large numbers of stops.

Thanks. I didnt think exposure difference was significant. How about technique? In M, moving equal exposure but two

stops from say 5.6 to 2.8 will involve 6 clicks on each dial.

Upside would be that numbers would match more frequently w meter. Plus when i want to reduce exposure one stop, I

wouldn't have to click 3 times on iso or flash power but two times on f or shutter speed (so consistent) .

I am considering setting to 1/3 stops again and wonder if you have relevant experience to share.

Until three years ago,I had a film camera that only had 1/2 stops. I used a old Gossen light meter with full stops marked on the dial.

Three years ago, I got a 5d which I set to 1/3 stops because I could I guess.

Last year, I took a lighting class and found it better to move back to 1/2 stops. We were counting stop differences between ambient

and flash, so it was easier to do 2 clicks per stop than 3.

Now I have 1) bought a Sekonic meter and 2) am using manual flash power settings on my 430exii.

I am thinking of going back to 1/3 stops on camera because:

1) sekonic's 1/2 and 1/3 stop conventions are A little different than Canon's (1.7 instead of 1.8 on 1/2 stops). Both 1/2 and 1/3 are

different, but it seems 1/2 are more different. I know this doesnt matter in practice, but it would be easier on my brain if they

matched.

2) 430ex manual settings move in 1/3 stops. Iso moves in 1/3 stops. I don't think there is a way to move either to 1/2. So I am

counting 3 on flash and iso and 2 on aperture and shutter.

Any advice?

<p>Very helpful, WW. I see the pattern in the results, which makes it a lot easier than having too many numbers to try to keep in my head.</p>

<p>I like your focus examples. I also use canon. I have lately been doing this: 1) Getting exposure using Av and center focus point. 2) Switch to M, setting apeture and shutter speed. Switch to other focus point on eyes. (On 5D which meters off center focus point, I can't use Av and switch to another focus point.) </p>

<p>This works most of the time, but AF doesn't always work on eyes, especially for focus point other than center. I sometimes use other focusing techniques including using AF center point, shifting to MF on lens, recomposing. This sometimes works, sometimes not. I also sometimes use CF4 with various focus points to basically keep camera in MF until I want to switch it. I have my C setting set up with M mode/CF4-1 for this purpose. </p>

<p>None of my techniques are completely foolproof, so I'll also try yours. </p>

<p>All of this has been extremely helpful to me.</p>

<p>Thanks,<br>

Tom</p>

<p>WW,</p>

<p>One final (I think) question. Total DOF is what you list on this sheet, correct? It's not DOF behind the subject, is it? I remember from back of my very old version of Canon Lens Works that 1/3 of DOF is in front; 2/3 behind. In practical application, I assume you focus on eyes, pick apeture to achieve total DOF that gets entire pose and desired props in focus. <br>

This is very helpful, thanks. </p>

<p>WW,<br>

That is excellent, exactly what I'm looking for. Do you know how I convert that to a 100 mm lens (my lens of choice for portraits)? </p>

<p>I am using a Canon 5D. Yes, I'm interested in DOF primiarily for portrait work. </p>

<p>Yes, the lenses do have marking showing distance. I meant after the fact. My 5D does not give distance in the exif data. </p>

<p>I don't have a computer (or iPhone for that matter) in the field with me. I am looking for an online DOF for times I'm not in the field, just to accelerate my desk learning to put to use in the field.</p>

<p>I think all parameters are there, so if I were better with math and had more time, I could just do it myself. I figure something like this exists, though. Even rules of thumb? Something like: "working w/tall female model in a flat pose, for shallow DOF, set to 100 mm lens to 2.8." (I'm guessing again.)</p>

<p>I have seen depth of field calculators and find them useful. However, I'd like one that does not make me enter distance from subject. I am terrible at estimating distance, and my camera does not do that for me.<br>

Let me know if something like this exists:<br>

- Enter lens: say 100mm<br>

- Enter height of subject: say I'm shooting a 5'7" model, so I have approximately 6" vertical in frame.<br>

- Calculator automatically calculates how far I am from the subject using 100 mm's angle.<br>

- Then everything else acts normally like DoF calculators I've seen. Say I want 1.5" DOF, it gives me apeture.</p>

<p>For this example, I my guess from experience would say at least 2.8 but probably between 2.8 and 4.0. I'd like to accelerate my learning, though, so a calculator would help.<br>

Thanks.</p>

<p>I have a 5D. I'd like to copy some pictures onto a CF and be able to view them when I push the > button. I used a formatted CF Card, and have copied JPGs onto there. When I push the > button on back, it says no images.</p>

<p>Anyone know what I'm doing wrong? Which folder should I be copying to (root folder, DCIM, 100EOS5D)? I'm pretty sure I've tried them all, but maybe I missed one.</p>

<p>Thanks for the help.</p>