tom_berkowski

December 13, 2015

Jos van Eekelen above saved a rating in DPP4 and the star rating transferred to LR. Does anyone know if check marks (not star ratings) made only to the raw files in DPP will reflect in LR?

My few days' experience with DPP4 is not good. The user interface is different than DPP3 in small ways, but unfortunately for me, many of my personal time saving keystroke/actions are gone. (Deleting from list, batch processing button, copying recipe to all images.) I also don't like the cropping tool because it seems less precise and more importantly makes me select the aspect ratio for every image instead of assuming I want the same one as last time. It's more typically the case for me that if I select 11x14 for one image, the rest will also be 11x14.

In addition, it doesn't seem easy for me to use DPP3 and DPP4 side-by-side since DPP3 doesn't even read DPP4's quick checks, so when I'm in DPP3 I can't quickly tell that I already processed in DPP4. (My workflow is dependent on quick checks.)

Of my original Options, I'm down to two:

1) Use DPP 4 for 5DIII and DPP 3 for my remaining original 5 files (ELIMINATED) 2) Use DPP 3 for everything. (I can do this now while I haven't done much in DPP4) 3) Switch to Lightroom (I'll do this for sure if check marks made only to the raw files in DPP will reflect in LR)

The reason I'm hung up on check marks that "1" indicates "to be processed." If I move to LR, I want to know whether or not I've already processed a raw image and converted to JPG.

December 11, 2015

I finally got a 5D Mark III after many many years of only using original 5D. I like it but am having trouble figuring out how to set controls to the way I like:

ISO change: When I press the ISO button, I like to change my ISO using the Quick Dial control (on back), not Main Dial on top. Any way to switch them?

AF: Many more choices, which I don't really want. I used CF4-1 on my 5D. I'm pretty sure I finally got that by doing custom controls. Can someone confirm that I should have first button on custom controls set to *, 3rd (*) set to Metering and AF start?

AF Point selection: I liked hitting AF select button on top of back, scrolling (using quick dial) while watching the LED Panel until I got the desired AF point. (I really only use 3 points.) I do not want to have to hold the body to my eye while selecting AF point, let alone select with one dial for vertical and the other for horizontal. Know if it's possible?

Thanks

December 2, 2015

I suppose it is amazing I've gone so long without any other post-processing software. I'm slow to learn new tricks, I guess. My style of photography doesn't need much post-processing, and it's been easier to pay a professional to retouch the rare images that need it.

Things I would like:

- ability to use one post-processing program for my 5Dc and new 5DIII. It will take quite awhile to go through my unprocessed 5Dc raw files and I will still keep 5Dc as backup and to take skiing, etc. It's kinda annoying that DPP4 won't work with older raw files.

- easier minor retouching...nothing DPP can't do but I imagine LR will be easier?

- B&W simulators...I was eyeing Silver Efex awhile ago. I still remember B&W films (Ilford, Agfapan, Fomapan, Kodak)

Thanks for the advice so far.

December 2, 2015

My primary body original 5D has hot shoe issues, and the backup 5D has a high shutter count. A 5DIII is on its way in the mail.

I've been using DPP as my only post-processing tool since I got my 5D ages ago. I use version 3 since version 4 does not support original 5D files. I have hundreds of unprocessed images from my 5D since I often get behind in processing.

I need suggestions on whether I should:

1) Use DPP 4 for 5DIII and DPP 3 for my remaining original 5 files

2) Use DPP 3 for everything

3) Switch to Lightroom

Option #3 (switching to LR) has an appeal since it is a standard, and #1 (using DPP4) means a learning curve anyway. Aside from cost, the major reason not to switch is that I don't know that LR will bring my tags from DPP3. Will it? For example, I tag raw images "1" for needs processing "2" for processed, "3" for delete. Would "1" be readable in LR?

Thanks for the input.

Tom

December 28, 2014

Something somewhat similar to this happened with one of my 5Ds last year. When Mode Dial was on Manual exposure, shifting from <OFF> to </>, the camera would not remain on. LCD Panel blanked out, came back on, blanked out again.

When Power Switch was set to <ON>, the camera remained on.

Problem was inconsistent. It usually worked fine with I powered on, then at a most inconvenient time, it would no longer work. I figured out a workaround to make it through the trip. Basically, I set the aperture when i first powered on, then I switch to <ON> position.

I set it to Canon twice. First time, they couldn't replicate the problem. (There were other service items that they did address.) Second time, they replaced what seems to be the entire back with LCD and dial. It's been working fine since then.

June 22, 2014

Let's say someone has a non current body today, buys then he buys a

current body in July with the new DPP. Will he not be able to process

his backlog of raw images taken a month earlier on his older body?

That is hard for me to imagine. If true, though, it will finally be the thing

that makes me get Lightroom.

February 15, 2014

With two pocketwizards, you'll be able to light one speedlite. You need on PW on top of your camera's hotshoe. One PW can receive and trigger the speedlite in M mode with the cable mentioned above. To trigger the other speedlite, you need one more PW.

September 8, 2013

I own both and also use on full frame digital. You're asking which has "better colors, lesser CA, better work into the sun, sharpness," presumably vs. the other lens, although someone could also interpret as which is "better" than some other comparison. If you compared against some zoom lens, the answer would be BOTH.

To answer your literal question with my experience, I'd say 200 has slightly better colors. I doubt I'd know CA if I saw it. 200 is easier to work in the sun since angle is so narrow and AF is excellent, better than 100 (although 100 is better than many other lenses.) 200 is slightly better in sharpness too in my experience & opinion, although you can check charts if you're so inclined.

But really, I'd say both are so good that sharpness, color, focus into the sun are not a factor at all. They're both excellent and will not disappoint you.

I own both but would never think of comparing the two. I'd never even pack the both for the same shoot.

I use 100 mm for most portrait/fashion. That focal length works for me, as it seems for you. Others prefer the 85 mm, but I got the 100mm and only regret not owning an 85 mm when I'm in a small studio that has me backed against the wall with a 100mm.

I rarely use 200 mm for portrait/fashion. FL is just too different. I use if for soccer/baseball mostly.

If I have the wrong lens with me (has happened), my sports pictures need to be severely cropped in post processing when I use a 100 mm. Fashion becomes almost all beauty/headshots with a 200mm.

My opinion (even though you didn't ask this question): don't worry about quality differences between the two. They are both excellent lenses, and you'd rather just have the focal length that will work for you.

January 26, 2013

I have owned the 100 f2 since film and use it on my 5D. I like it a lot. I have also used the 85 and also liked it a lot. I don't think you can go wrong and won't notice an image quality difference in real world application.

My primes are 50, 100, 200 which works well for me. If I had to start all over, I might try 35, 85, 135... because there are indoor spaces where I am literally against the wall w/a 100mm as WW said.

Since you own the 35 and say 135 is too long, I wonder if that means 85 is closer to your needs. Do you currently own a "kit" zoom lens? If so, which focal length is closer to what you use most frequently?

December 27, 2012

I turn my Sekonic meter in the wrong direciton all the time since I've been using Canons longer than Sekonic.

If Sekonic had an option to change directions, I'd do it in a second.

I always assumed some camera used that direction. If Frank used a different brand that went that direction, I could see a CF being useful. I"m pretty sure it doesn't exist, though. I have used 5D (original) for over 5 years.

Tom

November 24, 2012

My best guess at this point is that the battery door or CF door is loose. ("C" settings go back to user settings when CF card is changed.) I'll stick some gaffer's tape on it to see if that helps.

Thanks

November 22, 2012

I am aware of sleep mode issue that Larry described. That's why I have my auto power off set to 30 minutes.

I know that changing Cf card or battery also sets things back to stored "C" value. My problem is that things to back to

stored "C" for no apparent reason.

My guesses:

Dial may be loose so camera thinks I switched to "B" u l b then back to "C"

Or

Coin battery

Or

Door loose so camera thinks I switched card or battery so reset to stored "C" value.

November 21, 2012

There definitely is a coin battery that holds the date. I never changed it on my other 5D in 5 years. It's not that easy to

change (requires screwdriver I don't have plus special battery of course).

It doesn't seem logical that C would reset to my previous setting even if coin battery were dead, so before going down

that path, I wondered if anyone had this experience before (of random resetting to previous setting).

November 21, 2012

I use the "C" setting on my 5D (classic) to be manual set to f/5.6 at 1/160th. I adjusted exposure to be f/2.8 at 1/60th, shot several frames

then noticed I was back to f/5.6 at 1/160th. This has happened severql times. Any clue in what may be causing: coin battery?

More details: I bought this camera used a few weeks ago while my other 5d is in the shop.

I know this is NOT due to:

Power save: I know the annoying feature of auto-off after one minute reverting to C settings. I turned auto power off to 30 minutes

Changing batteries/changing CF cards: I am also aware that opening any door reverts to original "C" settings. I didnt do this.

Changing to Av then back to "C" again. I know this resets back to original "C" setting. I wasnt doing this.

I have used 5d for over 5 years so am familiar enough with the body and the above 3 scenarios.

Thanks,

Tom

October 22, 2012

Yes, I bought this new. I haven't had the mirror issue so have not had Canon do the mirror recall. Like you, I doubt this is primarily a mirror issue...seems to be something with autofocus but only affecting the half-depress way of autofocusing, not the back button (CF4-1).

It looks like this will be going in for an estimate and hopefully somewhat-affordable service. I plan to buy a used 5D to use while this one is in service then to have as a backup when I get my original back from service.

October 21, 2012

I have owned my 5D for 5 years. Today, I'm having a problem.

1) Mounted lens, took picture, everything froze. I don't think mirror was open. I think mirror opened & closed but I could not do anything ("busy"), including turn the body off. I had to remove battery (just main battery) for it to reset.

2) Since then. autofocus using half shutter has not worked in Av or Manual mode. The * appears in the viewfinder but nothing focuses.

3) Mysteriously, when I use CF4-1 (back button focus), the camera focuses normally when I push the *.

4) There is a slight burning smell from the body when I remove the lens.

5) Also when I remove the lens, the mirror seems more open than normal, but I can't recall for sure what it's supposed to look like.

This happens with 3 different lenses, so it's not a lens issue.

Any idea what problem may be and how much $ I can expect to spend to fix it?

Thanks.

August 7, 2012

Thanks, everyone, for the responses.

Here's another thing I thought about: does anyone ever replace the shutter before it fails? The price of shutter replacement seems affordable even compared to a backup body. (I know backup body would cover more than shutter failure, but that seems most likely to go.)

I haven't done a shutter count but I know it has to be a lot. I looked at this site

<a href="http://olegkikin.com/shutterlife/canon_eos5d.htm">http://olegkikin.com/shutterlife/canon_eos5d.htm</a>

and survival estimates seem to drop quite a bit after 200,000.

August 5, 2012

I've had my 5D for almost 5 years and have no need to upgrade. (If I broke my body, I'd just buy a used 5D to replace my current one.)

Since my current body is so old and goes through heavy use, I'm wondering if there will be any early indicators of imminent shutter failure, or it will just stop working some day.

If it will let me "limp to the shop" (using a car breakdown analogy), I'll just deal with it when it happens. If it will leave me stranded on the side of the road, I might consider pre-emptively buying a used one now. I don't need security of spares since I'm not a wedding or any other professional photographer. However, there are times that it would be inconvient to have it break down. (If I've rented a studio, for example.)

Just wondering as I've noticed that used prices seem affordable (but will only get more affordable, of course.)

April 10, 2012

I have 5D (original). Here's what I do:

1) Get correct exposure (ISO, apeture, shutter speed) through handheld meter or in camera metering + "chimping" interatively to get right exposure.

2) Switch to "C" on my dial, which I have set to Manual mode + CF4-1 as described above several times. I set the ISO/apeture/speed. I then focus using the * button, recompose & shoot.

As a variation on #2 above, there are times I have CF4 off (so focus button is shutter button). I focus, turn off autofocus on lens (move from AF to MF on lens). I recompose & shoot.

March 28, 2012

You will like the AC3. It's a lot easier than walking to flash position(s) every time, climbing up, manually adjusting.

The only downside is that you won't be able to use a Sekonic flash meter with radio transmitter to trigger the flashes.

March 25, 2012

I was curious and had my camera and a FlexTT5/430exII nearby to test my memory of #1 in particular.

I tested and experienced #1 again as you described (1/200 in case of 5D.)

I tested #2 again and was able to adjust Manual flash power all the way up & down when on the FlexTT5. I've done this many many many times, and I have two flash units and two TT5s. I'm positive I've never had an issue.

March 25, 2012

I don't think answer above about max sync speed is what Matthew Dale was asking about, which was related to HSS (above max sync speed).

My experience with PW/430EXII:

1) I also had the same experience when 430EXII was on my TT1 on top of my camera. I couldn't go above synch speed. It also seemed illogical to me. I rarely have flash on camera on top of TT1, so I did not spend any time figuring why or how to adjust settings to allow (if possible).

2) I have not had issues manually adjusting flash power on my 430exii on top of my FlexTT5. I can safely say I've done it hundreds of times. (That's the reason I evenutally bought an AC3 to be able to adjust power from camera rather than reaching up & pressing buttons by feel.) Is there anything else you can describe about #2 situation that may help isolate the problem?

Tom

March 19, 2012

I own one (50 mm). Current prices for converted 50 lenses are higher than what I paid for lens + conversion.

I don't expect electronics to appreciate in value in any case. Pick your most coveted lens, and think if you'd be surprised if you saw it cheaper used than new.

People sell things for any number of reasons. I wouldn't look too much into it.

I like mine by the way.

October 28, 2011

When I say "if I were in a studio situation," I mean that if I am renting a studio and renting lighting equipment like Profoto with built-in PW or renting/borrowing any PW Plus IIs with any studio lights.

It just seems logical to keep one channel on my MiniTT1 on Classic Channel 4. When I rent equipment, I can switch the rented equipment to channel 4. My question is whether I can achieve the same thing is I keep one channel on my MiniTT1 on ControlTL Channel 4. Will that pop a PlusII set to channel 4?

Thanks for any help.

October 27, 2011

I have owned MiniTT1 and FlexTT5 for months and really like them.

I originally started with one MiniTT1 and one FlexTT5. I set channels to:

C1: ControlTL channel 3

C2: "Classic"/Standard Channel 4

When I had one FlexTT5, I used channels this way

C1 (ControlTL Channel 3): for TTL situations (less common)

C2 (Standard Channel 4): for times I made manual adjustments on speedlite, which was most often. I could also "pop" the speedlite with my sekonic meter's wireless module. I also figured if I ever were in studio situation, I could easily use PlusIIs on Channel 4 and fire away.

More recently, I added 2nd FlexTT5 and AC3 zone controller. I still am a more frequent user of manual power adjustments (but love the option of using TTL.) Changing power setting with AC3 is now so much easier than reaching up high to speedlite, doing "braile" power adjustments. Only disadvantage is that I can't use my Sekonic to "pop" the flashes. Grrr...

My question: Is there any benefit in keeping one of my channels set to a Standard/"Classic Channel? I never understood if I could trigger a PlusII on Standard Channel 4 if I were on ControlTL channel 4.

My 2nd question: If I want ready compatability with PlusII, do I need to stick to Channels 1-4? The manual indicated that channels repeat, but I never understood. If I set MiniTT1 to channel 8, would it trigger PlusII set on Channel 4?

Sign In

Profiles

Forums

Blogs

Events

Downloads

Gallery

Store

Posts posted by tom_berkowski