elmar001

Jeff, unbelievably paranoid? You seem unbelievably cavalier when you have nothing to lose by what this lady decides to do. I suggest caution. If people used more common sense, and took less advice from the "no worries" crowd, we just might see fewer tragic stories on the news. I stand by my comments, that she proceed with caution and careful consideration. I don't think that is being paranoid.

Sounds like a deal to me. You din't mention umbrellas, also a radio or infrared trigger set.

 

Lawrence

Boy, in this day and age this idea makes me shudder. Since the internet, there has been a serious erosion of a person's ability to protect their privacy. Here are some things to think about. Sexy pictures, no matter how tasteful, can be extremely damaging and embarrasing, not to mention downright dangerous. How can you be sure that you have the ONLY copies of everything; negatives, proofs, darkroom waste, computer disk, hard drive, etc. etc. It is very difficult to know for sure.

 

Further, there is a danger of the pictures "getting out." This could be from many sources, but if it can happen to celebrities it can happen to anyone. I hate to bring this up, but many of the pictures posted on the internet are from an "ex" spouse.

 

It seems like a nice romantic idea, but my advice is to consider what you are doing very carefully, for your own sake. Once something gets on the internet, it is gone and can never be taken back.

 

Otherwise all the best for a long and wonderful relationship.

 

Lawrence, married 43 years.

An ETR body without anything on it is worth about 25 bucks on ebay at the present time. I just bought a nice ETRS for 40. My suggetion would be to get a non-metering prism (30 bucks) for it and use it as a spare, for flash only or whatever. Not much demand for the ETR any more. The battery cost me half what the camera cost! LOL. Whoever thought it would come to this.

The battery door does not appear totally necessary on this camera. I bought my ETR at Kenmore in Seattle, they had a box of stuff and there may have been a battery door in it. You might shoot them an email. The handgrip covers this hole, that may do it for you. Or good old "duck" tape. LOL

Are you prewashing the film for 2 minutes? When I prewash mine, the water pours out purple. Is your developer purple when you pour out?

I too would like to make such a release for my R4 winders. The 5 pin connection fits a remote release cable (50 bucks on ebay) and an intervalometer device which I have, much cheaper on ebay. I would hesitate to "short" anything, as I think there is power there for the intervalometer, which could cause damage to if shunted to the wrong place. Short of taking something apart to see what connects where, I would like to see a diagram of the pin connections. If anyone has knowledge we would appreciate hearing from you.

 

Lawrence

Well, I did it! Thanks to all that offered advice and encouragement. My first

120 film ever, and my first film processing in about 40 years. I had a few

glitches. I was surprise the pre-soak water was purple when it poured out. At

first I thought my tank turned water into wine, but now I think there must have

been purple ink on the film tape.

 

Also on the first roll I loaded, there was some touching together at the outer

end. But the second roll was in the spiral ok. I will be careful next time to

feed in slowly.

 

Thanks everyone for your help. I probably will need more as I go.

 

Lawrence

Well, after lots of excuses, I think I am finally ready to process my first two

rolls of film. I have my developer working solution mixed(HC-110), and I am

going to mix stop and fixer just enough when I am ready to go. I am using tap

water (our water is very good here.) I am going to use the microwave to time,

with my wife at the controls. Pickle jars will serve to hold the working

solutions temporarily to get the right temperature.

 

So if you talk regularily to the gods of dark rooms, please put a word or two

forward. I need all the help I can get! LOL

 

Thanks for all the help getting me this far.

 

Lawrence

There is an excellent procedure for adjusting HERE:

 

http://jay.fedka.com/index_files/Page422.htm

 

I have used this to adjust my LTM bodies and worked great.

 

Lawrence

My wife thinks that God made Tupperware for food. We know better, Tupperware (and like products) were made to store, among other things, film. I always put film in a plastic container first, just in cases like these, or I drop it overboard, spill a beer on it, whatever. Also cameras flashes etc when in the field.

It is easy to get the idea these days that photography is no longer important, everything is taken care of by TV, movies, internet etc. A story like this simply goes to the heart of the matter, that photography is and will continue to be an important part of the human saga on earth. Hopefully, truth will continue to be told in a world of fakery and fantasy that is the media today. Good on you Capa, photographer, character and friend of the art of exposing silver to light. Rest well.

Pathetic, that's all I can say. One more time: pathetic. That's twice.

 

My wife once asked me what she was supposed to do with all my crap if I died. How would she get rid of it? I told her, you don't have to do anything. IT'S ALL ON EBAY! You just have to ship what sells! She seemed to buy that. So that's the answer, keep everything listed on ebay. LOL

 

Lawrence

OK, try that again.<div></div>

I should have posted a small phot, here it is.

Thank you for your help. As far as water to mix the solutions goes, should I use bottled water, or filtered through Brita? I assume tap water is not ok, but I don't know. Tap water would be ok for rinsing would it not? I am planning on putting my mixed solutions in empty water-bottle bottles. I know I am kinda going cowboy for the first few runs, once I do a couple of rolls I can organize better stuff. I bought HC-110 developer. I am using Fuiji Across 120 film, I haven't bought any 35mm B&W yet because I have been using XP-2.

 

Thanks again.

Here is a newbie question for you. I am about to process my first film in 40

years. I can't remember, is it ok to wash the tanks with soap? Or is that the

goldfish tank? Anyway, help would be appreciated.

 

Also, can I put one 120 reel in the tank that holds two 35mm reels? I assume I

can just do one film in each tank, using the second reel empty as a spacer.

Should the developer just cover the reel with the film in it on the bottom? And

can I mix 120 film reels and 35mm reels in the same tank?

 

Thank you.

 

Lawrence

Last week I requested help from the group to find out where to go to buy

equipment in Seattle. This is a followup trip report on our weekend. Our trip

was a success in that we came home broke but loaded down with new used gear.

 

Our first stop was Kenmore Camera. They have a large selection of used film

equipment, as well as a full-service camera and processing store. The staff was

very helpful and made it fun. They knew their stuff and helped me to buy a

Bronica ETR body, 3 lenses, 2 backs and some other gear. Also got a macro lens

for the Leica.

 

Next day I went to Jim's. I met Jim himself. I must say, all that I was lead to

believe about Jim was totally wrong in light of my experience there. Jim has a

somewhat smaller, less polished store than some I have been in, but all-in-all

he had a lot of interesting items including a good stock of film gear. He was

actually able to come up with an original case for the Bronica outfit in

excellent condition. That was a surprise! Jim himself was very pleasant and

helpful.

 

I also dropped in to Glazer's. It was a very polished facility, a lot of shiny

new toys there. But not being much in the market for that kind of gear (except

for a photo printer, they had lots of those) I didn't stay to handle the M8!

 

Later I decided if I am going to shoot 120 as well as 35mm in B&W I might as

well do out the film myself and then scan the negatives. So I went back to

Kenmore and found a couple of used tanks. The total bill for all the stuff I

needed to process the film including the tanks was only 75 bucks, so I think

that will work out ok.

 

So aside from spending too much and eating too much, it was a great trip. There

wasn't any time to do photography, but that wasn't really the idea. As far as

the camera goes, it is quite different from my 35 cameras, and took me a whole

day to figure out the various parts and how they should all work. I am going to

shoot another B&W film and then process the two together.

 

Thanks for everyones help. It made the whole thing go a lot better to have your

help.

 

Lawrence

I have tried to deal with the same situation, and have had moderate success. I suggest you go down to any place locally that may sell cameras. Take your gear with you, and try various bags for fit. Do not rule out ordinary (non-camera) bags from various sources as well. If you find the camera bag of your choice too pricey in the store, come home and buy it from eBay. I found the Tamrac Expedition bag I want to be at least $100 more at a camera store than what I can buy a new one on the internet for. Now my problem is how to carry those tiny lenses,and my Bronica 645 outfit at the same time! LOL

I often use contact cement cleaner from the hardware store. There is also an adhesive label spray remover that smells like lemon pledge, although it is some chemical. You can get it at any electronic parts store.

"You should do as the Leicaphiles do. Keep it in a velvet lined box in a glass case and you'll never have to worry about getting it scratched."

 

Actually, you probably SHOULD do as the Leicaphiles do: Buy it used. Then it comes pre-scratched.

 

Lawrence

I appreciate everyones help on this. Tomorrow is the big day, we are taking the 2 hour plus drive south to Seattle. On the way we will be stopping at Kenmore's, I got a new plastic that hasn't even been used! LOL I plan to go to Jim's and Glazers on Friday, if I can drag my wife out of the malls for a bit. I have them all programmed in the Garmin so even an old guy like me should be able to find my way around. I will let you know what happens when we get back. Thanks again.

 

Lawrence

Here is a picture of how it all goes together. The Metz is on the G15 handle with C cells in it. The flash fits on the handle without an adapter. The adapter goes in the 3000C cord and fits on the camera. Simple once you get all the right pieces!

I just received the 3502 adapter. It is longer, I had to remove the small piece of plastic which made room to slip the longer 3502 into the flash unit.

 

When I operate my camera for ttl flash, it definitely recognizes everything, as opposed to the 300-series adapter. It seems that adapter could only tell the camera that it was ready. The 3502 adapter enables full ttl functionality, but I still have to try it with film.

 

So to sum up what I have learned so far:

 

The little plastic strip is nice-to-have, but there doesn't seem to be a problem when using 300-series adapters without it.

 

Use 300 series adapter for flash-ready indication only. Use 300A cord for off-camera flash location.

 

Use 3000 series adapter for ttl flash, use 3000C cord for off-camera flash.

 

Use G15 or G16 handle for off-camera flash to give ready light signal or ttl connection to hot shoe. G15 seems to only work with PC connection if using 300-series adapter. With 3000-series adapter G15 can work with remote cord to hot shoe.

 

This is only as I have found it for use with Leica. The manuals for the 3000 series adapters are on the Metz site, but I haven't found any for the 300-series adapters.

 

Hope this helps.

 

Lawrence

Thank you for your comments. I was wondering what you thought of the deals on the Kenmore website. The two ETRS kits for $300 look interesting, what do you think? They don't seem to have a metered prism there, but they may have others not listed on the website. Thanks.