marcomariano

<p>this lens is the most bang for the buck tele-zoom for cropped EOS. performance to price ratio is unbeatable.</p>

<p>if i already got 70-200 f2.8 IS, i wont think about 135 f2 any more. which i already have right now.</p>

<p>i had the non-L/IS before so i can tell that IS of 100L IS doesnt really help on 1:1 magnification.</p>

<p>i used this diy diffuser<br /> <img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4020/4449937146_c167db71db.jpg" alt="" /><br /> to take this shot<br /> <img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4061/4411158028_2fdde99919.jpg" alt="" /></p>

<p>i'll pick 70-200 2.8 IS + 2X... have used this combo (kenko though) on my last trip & results are fine. images are sharper at f/6.3-7.1.</p>

<p>shot at f/5.6<br>

<img src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2714/4404060250_17b7de69b2.jpg" alt="" /></p>

<p>24L or 35L would be nice. <img src="http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n94/engr_mariano/icons/no1.gif" alt="" /></p>

<p>7D hands down... AF, IQ, view finder, CLS, video, etc...</p>

<p>i have both Kenko 1.4X & 2X TCs, 1.4 is definitely has less IQ degradation than 2X. if "moment" is more important than IQ, im not hesitating using 2X on my 70-200 2.8 IS. and besides, 5D2 has more room for correction.<br /> <img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4041/4404845467_43694d90a4.jpg" alt="" /></p>

<p>sorry to hijack the thread... just would like to ask if the AF of this lens will work fine (will not hunt) if attached with Kenko Auto tube set (68mm)?</p>

<p>wait for Sigma 8-16mm</p>

<p>Rubo -> 200 x 1.6 x 1.4 = 400!?... should be 448 right?</p>

<blockquote>

<p>You want the white Kenko or Tamron model, they are the same (not the black ones).</p>

</blockquote>

<p>the <strong>Kenko Teleplus PRO 300 AF</strong> (black) are the latest models.</p>

<p>Sigma 12-24mm, its 2mm wider than nikkor 14-24/2.8</p>

<p>Tamron 17-50/2.8</p>

tnx for the replies, found out that it will work if flash is off.

from DPReview

 

 

Program Auto Exposure (Flexible)

 

Very similar to AUTO exposure but you have access to all the normal manual controls, can set the ISO, exposure compensation, use AE

lock, bracketing etc. Program AE is flexible which means that you can select one of a variety of equal exposures (in 1/3 or 1/2 EV steps

depending on C.Fn I-1) by turning the main dial. Example:

 

• 1/30 F2.8 (metered)

• 1/20 F3.2 (turn left one click)

• 1/15 F4.0 (turn left two clicks) etc.

 

 

...but when i turn the wheel, only the aperture was adjusting. do i have to set something?

hi all! thanks alot for your precious inputs.

 

i think i have to get f/2.8 minimum aperture.

 

short listed will be 70-200/2.8 (IS or non-IS) or Sigma 120-300/2.8. i'll try to look around if i could rent one.

 

thanks, again!

im going to watch "Singapore Formula 1 Grand Prix Night Race".

 

my question is, what zoom lens will suit this event? if the lighting will mimic the sunlight at highnoon, will

ordinary zoom like 55-250IS & 70-300IS enough? or one of the mighty siblings 70-200 f/2.8-4 IS? FL are limited

only at 300mm.

 

i know in american races such indycar, craftsman cup, or nascar has night races. did any of you used any of these

lens on the event?

 

btw, im using 40D.

 

thanks!

EF-S 55-250 IS has good reviews across the net. also, it will not tire you up coz its very light & most of all, it will not burn the bank in you.

nice pictures for comparison yakim!

 

its quite similar to my problem as well.

im a concert photographer also. im only using 17-55/2.8 IS on my 40D.

 

from whole stage to portait shots, this combo never lets me down.

even kit lens will survive normal usage, unless your going to use it for ramming.

Joey, just 1 quick Q...do you already own a flash? if the answer is NO, no need for another lens.

 

FLASH will solve your problem. still, you'll be using your favorite lens.

 

im using 17-55/2.8 IS on 40D. pop-up flash is not enough for ambient light. with my 430EX attached, most of the time

im only using f/4-8.

Joey, just 1 quick Q...do you already own a flash? if the answer is NO, no need for another lens.

 

FLASH will solve your problem. still, you'll be using your favorite lens.

Jeremy, what camera do you have at the moment?

 

for your question, XSi is an entry level dslr & 40D is semi-pro dslr. both can be used for weddings.

if i were the the thread starter, i'll be more confused on the overwhelming & contradicting inputs.

 

i once also asked the same question with also the kind of response answered.

 

some one will recommend this bang-for-the-buck prime lens, then some one will oppose.

 

some one will recommend to pair it with this telezoom lens, then some one will oppose again.

 

no ending of recommendation/opposition thing...

 

 

the best and cheapest for now and i say for now is your choice of dslr which is 450D(XSi) + its kit lens EFS 18-55 IS.

nothing more PERIOD!

 

if you think that you have outgrown it, thats the time to upgrade.<div></div>