hillsdalemichigan

<p>Has anyone tried to contact someone at Nikon and specifically ask them why they don't sell their scanners again. They should know there is a huge interest in them. I read Plustek might be coming out with a similar scanner.<br>

here is the link<br>

http://dc.watch.impress.co.jp/img/dcw/docs/426/498/html/10.jpg.html</p>

<p>It really isn't that hard. Be very careful and patient. You might want to post in the rangefinderforum under folders.</p>

<p>The second and third pictures are light leaks from your bellows or camera back. I had the samething happen to me.</p>

<p>Hey Seok<br>

I am going to be getting the same kit today. Let me know how it goes. I will be using kodak photo flo and I see no difference. Let me know what size and type bulb you use to expose the negative. They state to use a 150watt bulb. I plan on using any type of bulb home depot sells with a cheap work lamp hooked to a stand. Then only thing that I have a question on is do you take the film out of the spool for the re-exposing then respool for the second development?<br>

In the instructions the say use forma-flo and rinse then you do the second developing.</p>

<p>Hi Mike,<br>

I have the Microtek Artixscan and found out Vuescan works the best in Widows 7. I am using the firewire port and had a dual disks. One for xp prof 32 and one for windows 7 64bit. I found out using widows 7 64bit allowed me to use 4 gigs of ram instead of the xp that only allows 2 gigs. My workflow is faster and easier using Vuescan. You might want to go over to rangefinderforum. We had a discussion on how to use the Microteck scanner and it might be useful for you.</p>

<p>Yes the light source is from the left my mistake. Thanks.-</p>

<p>My fault, I meant to say left side up corner.</p>

<p><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4113/4978846401_8cdfc16bdd.jpg" alt="" /><img src="img src=" alt="" /><br>

Is this lens flare and is my lens ok. The sun was to the right. It was partially cloudy. I am using a Canon 5D with a 17-40L and a Hoya UV Filter. I notice it on a couple of my other pictures.</p>

<p>Here you go. I like dil H @ 20C 10 mins agitate first 30 sec. The 2 times first 10 secs. every min. Are you sure your temp was at 70 f/20c. PMK Pyro with distilled water might yeild better results.</p>

<p> http://www.photo.net/black-and-white-photo-film-processing-forum/00PpJ2</p>

<p>I agree with Robert, I am starting to use distilled water for every developer.</p>

<p>I tried the acros in hc110 dil h,1:63. Can out really nice and scanned sharp on my Epson 4990. Will be trying acros 100 again but I might use Formulary PMK Pyro or Agfa Rodinal this time.</p>

<p>Why don't you buy a used enlarger and try traditonal color printing. I saw an add on cragslist for a 4 x 5 omega with a dichro II for 125.00</p>

<p>I have the 5D and was looking at the 5dii or wait for the 5diii because of all the hype, but when I make prints at 20 x30 they look pretty sharp to me and when everyone looks at them they don't ask if it was made by the 5dmarkii. They like the colorful sunsets.<br>

If I sold my 5d I would regret it, so I still might hang on to it and purchase some more singh ray filters and possibly that 17mm tse or zeiss 21. A Leica m6 with a zeiss lens looks pretty good too.</p><div></div>

<p>Camera still works in Manual mode with meter turned on or shut off. The LED do read out and show the <strong>M.</strong></p>

<p>Hi Guys,<br>

I just checked the battery and it is down to 5.6 v. It is hard to tell if the camera is draining the battery through the main switch when turned to <strong>L</strong>.<br>

Tom, the guy at the battery store told me the duracell 28L should read 6.5v when new and he said when you get below 6.0 v the battery is considered useless.<br>

I have been rapidly press the shutter release and meter buttons to see if something was sticking. So far the meter is reading out fine. I think this maybe due to it is hot out (85 degress) and nothing is sticking.<br>

One time I pressed the meter button to test the battery and the meter LED stayed and when I pressed the shutter button half way down the LED still didn't go out. So I just turned off the meter to reset it.<br>

I checked the camera just now and used a newer battery that read 6.04v. I turned the main switch to <strong>A</strong> and pressed the meter check button. While looking throught the viewfinder the meter LED flickered on really quick then went off, the red light is flickering rapidly. So I am assuming the battery is still fine to use. <br>

I am going up north to compare this camera with the 5D/17-40. I have a Canon 17mm and a Rokinin 28-70 f2.8 lens for the A1 and I really don't want nothing to go wrong while I am up there. I am going to be using alot of different film types.<br>

Thanks for the help.</p>

<p>I just had my canon cla'd and I noticed my battery (duracel 28L) is dead by the next day. I shot one roll of film through the camera and was always careful to put the switch to L if I wasn't using the camera. When I was done with the camera I set the meter switch off and turned the main switch to L. The next day I went to test my camera and the meter light wouldn't come on. I would then press the meter test button and the meter light came on, stayed on for sometime and then would shut off. I then checked the battery with a meter and it read 6.12 v, a fresh battery reads 6.5. I ended up taking the camera to the place that repaired the camera and it worked for them because they tested it with a new battery and they said nothing was wrong. I am getting pretty pissed off because I paid 150.00 and didn't hesitate at paying the price. I am doing something wrong.</p>

<p>I just had a CLA done on my Canon A1 and sometimes when I press the Shutter button half way down to check the meter reading the LED readout will lighly flickr and sometimes stay on. On the led readout it also dims out very very low and flickers. This noticeable when I am using the camera in the darker areas. Is there anyway I can fix the probelm myself I took the camera back in and the repairman said there is nothing wrong with it. Of course it doesn't do it when I take it in. I noticed it tends to flickr when there is a roll of film in the camera. The tech checked it without the film being in the camera. Is there anyway I can fix the probelm myself? I keep using new duracell batteries. When I am not using the camera I turn the main switch the lever to <strong>L</strong> and shut off the meter button. </p>

<p>Rollie ATP 1.1 here.</p>

<p>Watch out for certo 6 he is all hype. He sent my a folder that wasn't the same as the one listed and tried to get out of admitting that he did it intentionally. MF folders are cool and fun but they are limited. I have a whole bunch of them now and they can when properly clean and adjusted yeild excellent results. The other cameras that are described will allow for more flexability.</p>

<p>If you think looking at slides at 35mm why don't you buy a medium format folder that is cheap and look at those in some provia 100 or fuji rvp. 6 x 9 is really cool.</p>

<p>Why don't you try a medium format folder. I have had excellent results with one. As long as you have a good scanner.</p>

<p>Why don't you try a medium format folder. I have had excellent results with one. As long as you have a good scanner. </p>

<p>And here is the crop take from the boat in the background.</p><div></div>

<p>Here is an example from a vintage medium format folder (over 50 years old) using Fuji Provia 100 RVP. I am posting this to show you an old camera, I feel, can still keep up if not be better than some digital cameras.<br />I scanned it with an EPSON 4990 photo using a 120 film holder from better image scanning. I did default scannings, scanned image 21 in x 13 in @ 240 dpi. I adjusted in CS3 and did a high pass sharpen. I could have played with the image more to bet better results.<br />Just to let you know I am an amatuer photographer so results could be better. The image was taken on a sunny day @f16/125 sec.<br>

The film was also expired for over a year.</p><div></div>

<p>Thanks for the test. Didn't you notice even though the g10 had a higher noise than the xsi the details of the g10 were a little better/sharper? Did you try to remove the noise from the g10 file and try to pp to see if ended up coming out better than the xsi?</p>