dennisgg
-
Posts
480 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Blogs
Events
Downloads
Gallery
Store
Posts posted by dennisgg
-
-
<p>Hi,</p>
<p>I am sure this may have been brought up before, but I just want to post about it. <br>
I watch Craigslist often (got some great deals) and I think it is interesting when I see someone selling their setup with thousands of dollars of lenses to switch to a different brand system (staying in the same basic size sensor, not like switching to medium format). I can see selling APS-C setup and saving the lenses that are full frame compatible to go to a full frame, but switching completely to Nikon or Canon after that sort of investment in glass. Do they really think that switching from say mid to high end Nikon or Canon to vice-versa with equivalent lenses and class of body is worth the loss of investment - loosing money on the used resell and then paying the new replacement price? Not to mention the learning a new system.<br>
I don't get it. What a waste of money IMO. I suppose if you have the money it is your business and prerogative. Do they really think that going from Canon L glass and say a 5D to say Nikon pro glass (or vice-versa) with a D700 or D3 will really make a difference to warrant the investment? <br>
Am I missing something? I think all of the major DSLR makers (Canon, Nikon and Sony IMO due to larger sensors than the 4/3 sensors, not that they are not capable) are capable of professional imaging with their higher end glass. <br>
Dennis</p>
<p> </p>
-
<p>KEH.COM has a 20D for $310 and you can get the Canon 18-55mm IS lens (get the image stabilized version - better optically as well as having IS) for about $100-120. That would be under your budget, you will get a MUCH faster 20D body (response, buffer for continuous, frames per second, etc. - I've had both 10D and 20D), support for EF-S lenses, 8 megapixels, etc. and a very good fairly wide lens. You could then sell the 10D body for $150-200 and end up spending about $230 leaving $270 you can put towards one of the ultra wide zooms like the Sigma 10-20mm, Tamron 11-18mm, etc. You would be about 1/2 way towards one of them.</p>
-
<p>Harry said:<br>
"Try shooting the little things in life with a macro lens."<br>
I agree totally - I find when I am in a funk looking for subjects/compositions, I get out the macro and start looking at the little things. Another thing I may do is try to find something that could be made into an abstract or a pattern (not easily identifiable as to what it was originally maybe, but artistic).</p>
-
<p><a href="../photodb/user?user_id=2021234">Dan Goldman</a> said "the rebel series is too small... a light camera also bounces around abit more, and it doesnt balance well with a telephoto lens. I also like how, on bigger cameras, your hand doesnt wrap around the side grip."</p>
<p>I agree - I had a Rebel XT first and found it too small for my hands and it dug into my hand with long lenses. I got a 20D used and love the larger size and weight. I got a battery grip and it was even better. I now have a 7D with a battery grip and also like the size. It helps balance heavier lenses.</p>
-
<p>Oops - here is inline - forgot to resize.</p><div>
</div>
-
<p>Here is a crop for detail.</p><div></div>
-
<p>This is an old Sears 55mm f1.4 made by Tomioka wide open. It is an M42 mount lens that is very good wide open.</p>
<div>
</div> -
<p>I hope you will be happy with your purchase, but how is it a savings over the 5D MK II if you have to buy glass all over again? You said that you can break even with Sony and all new glass except that 70-200 f2.8 IS (well that is a $1800 lens). That doesn't sound like a savings to me. Per Adorama, the Sony equivalent is a $1800 lens. So my math says that the switch cost you about $1100. <br /> Good luck with your purchase, I hope you made the right decision for yourself.</p>
-
<p>Some sort of fishing floats - this is at the fishing docks of Newport, Rhode Island.</p>
-
<p>Here is the original</p><div></div>
-
<p>Processed only with Canon DPP software. I am loving it!</p><div></div>
-
<p>BM - as for the radioactive lenses see:<br>
http://www.camerapedia.org/wiki/Radioactive_lenses<br>
Nikkor-O 35mm f1.4, Pentax Super Takumar 50mm f1.4 are 2 that I have. they are somewhat yellowed (tint to glass from the radioactive material, but I have heard that exposure of the lens to sunlight from an indoor window can reduce or eliminate the yellow tint).</p>
-
<p>35mm lenses that can be adapted:<br>
Olympus OM, Leica R, Pentax M42/Screwmount, Pentax K, Exakta, Nikon, Praktica Bayonet, Contax/Yashica bayonet<br>
Medium Format lenses that can be adapted:<br>
Hasselblad, Pentacon Six, Mamiya 645, Pentax 645, Pentax 6x7<br>
Possible 35mm, but require optical element for infinity focus or no element for macro/close focus only:<br>
Minolta MD<br>
Canon FD<br>
If you do an eBay search like EOS Leica R or EOS Pentax 645, you will find the adapters.</p>
-
<p>Phoenix/Cosina/Vivitar 100mm f3.5 autofocus macro</p>
-
<p>Vivitar Series 1 90mm f2.5 macro (37#### serial number Tokina made) - incredible (I got mine for $75 from a pawn shop - best lens I have used so far). Pixel peep sharp even wide open, beautiful bokeh, built to withstand a nuclear blast.<br>
Soligor 350mm f5.6 T-mount (there are a few versions - mine focuses pretty close) - very good to exc. wide open, pixel peep at f8 (not to mention very light weight for handholding), very nice bokeh thanks to alot of blades. This is my go-to telephoto unless it is a fast action situation.<br>
Soligor 180mm f3.5 T-mount (just got one for $12 shipped on ebay) - sharp wide open, beautiful bokeh (tons of blades), compact and light weight<br>
Vivitar Series 1 28-90mm f2.8-3.5 (28###### serial number), wonderful lens<br>
Vivitar Series 1 70-210 f3.5 or f2.8-4 (22###, 28#### or 37### serial numbers)<br>
Jupiter-9 85mm f2 (rather soft wide open, but great for portraits, nice bokeh - tons of blades, sharp stopped down)<br>
Vivitar 135mm f2.8 (28#### serial number) - sharp as hell wide open (common and can be had for under $35 on ebay)<br>
Olympus Zuiko 35mm f2 (got for $30 at pawn shop)<br>
Olympus Zuiko 50mm f1.8<br>
Pentax 50mm f1.4<br>
GAF/Chinon/Sears 55mm f1.4<br>
Industar-61 50mm f2.8 (very close, almost macro focusing)<br>
Soligor 105mm f2.5<br>
Samyang/Rokinon/Falcon/Bower 8mm f3.5 fisheye (also as Opteka 6.5mm and Vivitar 7mm - same lens)<br>
Tamron 200m f3.5<br>
Vivitar 200mm f3.5 (28#### serial number)<br>
Pentacon 29mm f2.8<br>
Mamiya 55mm f1.4<br>
Vivitar Macro-focusing 2x teleconverter (made by Kiron, turns 50mm lens into a 1:1 macro) - exceptional<br>
Nikkor 105mm f2.5<br>
Tamron Adaptall, SP lenses - most<br>
Vivitar lenses with serial numbers 22### (Kiron), 28#### (Komura/Komine), 37### (Tokina)<br>
Pentax Takumars (most)<br>
Many/most Russian lenses<br>
Olympus Zuikos<br>
Chinon lenses<br>
Most Yashica lenses<br>
Mamiya lenses<br>
Pentacon<br>
Schneider Kreuznach<br>
Zeiss (they do tend to command more $$$)<br>
Komura/Komine<br>
Kiron<br>
Nikkors (although they command more $)<br>
Soligors (not all, some are awesome, some mediocre) - the 105mm and 180mm beat the Takumars in sharpness. My 350mm is so good, I got another as a backup (I took a picture of my son from a distance and was able to get fine weave details from his coat as well as button details). Find an auction for one and do a google search on it for more info.</p>
<p> </p>
-
<p>Hi,</p>
<p>I had a 10D and a 20D. My 20D died (I think shutter based on what I am reading here about the continuous shooting even off with Err99). I shoot everything - I don't really specialize. I have a Sigma 10-20, Vivitar 19-35mm (FF), 28-135mm, and a ton of adapted 35mm lenses. I know the 10-20mm won't work on a 1D Mark II, but the 19-35mm will. I like the 10D, but it is slow whereas the 20D was nice and pretty quick. I know the 1D is the pro line, more durable, faster, larger sensor (I do like playing with shallow DOF with portraits and for special selective focus), sealing, many more AF points, more spot metering choices, but this one is older (not that the 10D is new, but still offers beautiful results) and a bit more expensive than a used 40D. The 40D is slower, has a larger LCD, live view, more resolution (not that I have been doing any huge enlargements), sensor cleaning system, etc. <br>
Thoughts? I'd appreciate your opinions and value them in advance.</p>
-
<p>I am pretty positive this is the same lens as the Samyang, Bower, Falcon, Rokinon 8mm and Vivitar 7mm. <br>
As for the quality, it is excellent based on reviews for a very inexpensive fisheye.<br>
See Full Review:<br>
Samples:<br>
http://ns22277.ovh.net/plikioptyczne/samy8/sam8_fot4.jpg is a sample wide open at f3.5. It is pretty sharp in the center and even the edges are pretty good, contrast seems quite good<br>
http://ns22277.ovh.net/plikioptyczne/samy8/sam8_fot5.jpg at f8.<br>
As for focusing - the review says that at f5.6, focusing is not necessary - set the lens to 0.6 meters and from 29cm to infinity is in focus (about 11.5 inches to infinity). Wide open at f3.5 - focus at 1m and from about 20" to infinity is in focus.<br>
I have the Spiratone aux. 180 degrees add one lens (pictured above) and it is no where as sharp as the samples, the center is mediocre, edges are just plain blur. </p>
-
<p>My wife uses P mode in RAW. I show her the AV mode and work on teaching her how to use it. I don't use P mode. I use AV and M pretty much exclusively, not even TV. I use a god percentage of adapted manual focus lenses, which pretty much dictates those modes.</p>
-
<p>I like to think of myself as an artist's apprentice. I photograph to try to make art with composition, etc. but there are times where I am trying to just capture a nice image of what I see (alot of times the thing I am trying to capture is already nature's art or someone else's art). I continue to try and learn from the true artists. I don't have the luxury of spending a lot of time on a single work of art (like waiting for the best time, light, weather conditions of a particular landscape scene) I would like to photograph). I try to make the best of the conditions I have as I may not have another opportunity there. Hopefully I will someday. I still have more learning to do and feel like you never stop learning (or shouldn't). </p>
-
<p>I would compliment the 40D with your friend's 5D. Your 16-35mm will give you the very wide on the 5D, the 10-17mm fisheye will give you fisheye on the 5D. The extra reach and faster response of the 40D will be good for sports, telephoto work, etc. I think that would be the way to go. Do you know how much actuations it has? And if you sell both 40D's, you can put that towards a 7D and have the best of both worlds for less total than a 5D Mach II or 1D series.</p>
-
<p>Add to the list:</p>
<p>Tokina AT-X 90mm f2.5 (and its equivalent Vivitar Series 1 90mm f2.5 with serial number starting with 37 - I have it in Nikon mount which I adapt to my Canon and it is amazing!)<br>
Vivitar 90mm f2.8 macro (serial number starting with 28 - which is a Komine made lens)<br>
Kiron 105mm macro<br>
Tamron 90mm f2.5 macro (adaptall or not with adapter)<br>
Pheonix 100mm f3.5 (also Vivitar 100mm f3.5 and Cosina are all the same lens - these are AF lenses)<br>
Sigma 105mm macro (make sure it will work on a Canon digital - AF lens)<br>
Lester Dine 105mm<br>
Canon 50mm f3.5 EF macro (AF)</p>
<p>Great budget options (get everything for under $75):<br>
Other options are a good 50mm lens with M42 screw mount, or other adaptable to Canon mount lens with extension tubes or the same mount. Most of the 50mm lenses are very good, if you get a M42 (Pentax screw mount) lens, the M42 extension tube sets are about $10-15 on ebay. The 50mm lenses are usually f1.4 to f2.2 so they work well in low light. Canon adapters are on ebay for cheap about $7-10 for plain, about $15-35 for ones with AF confirmation (it will light the red LED and beep when in focus). Search for EOS M42, or EOS Nikon, or EOS OM (Olympus), EOS Pentax K for the adapters. <br>
Check out ebay items (all under $40 buy-it-now):<br>
250568515353<br>
200432639270<br>
390126144533<br>
150410931062<br>
200392914137<br>
380195348528<br>
400100931710<br>
200432170021<br>
130363335848<br>
290377531437<br>
180455453076 (with Mamiya 35mm SLR for under $30)</p>
<p>Then get (lens mount adapter):</p>
<p>170428208389 (EOS to M42 adapter plain with no focus confirmation)<br>
or<br>
120472060817 (with focus confirmation)</p>
<p>Then get (extension tubes):<br>
230425308367</p>
-
<div></div>
-
<p>No, I like my 10D and 20D's. I had a Digital Rebel XT and it was too small for my hands. When using a long telephoto, the bottom dug into my palm. I realize a grip would help, but I prefer the feel of the 10D and 20D with grips. I am OK with the weight. I also have an Olympus E20 (I picked up for $35 used - rather light, but has a 35-135mm f2.0-f2.4 ED lens, magnesium body, super silent, aux. 3X to make a 405mm f2.8) for carrying light (except the aux is not light or small - a special made lens with bracket for this camera by Olympus). </p>
-
<p>Walking on the rocks in low tide with seaweed - slip, partially banged camera as I went down. Luckily I just got mildly banged up myself - camera is fine!</p>
Compact Flash Cards for the Canon 7D
in Canon EOS Mount
Posted