kyle_mahaney

<div></div>

<div></div>

<div></div>

<div></div>

<div></div>

<div></div>

<div></div>

<div></div>

<p>Also <a href="http://www.alienskin.com/exposure/index.aspx">http://www.alienskin.com/exposure/index.aspx</a></p>

<p>I bought one on ebay a few months ago for next to nothing not expecting it to work, instead mine functions perfectly and is a great spare body for when I don't want to risk taking the IIIf into an area... just be sure you get a GOOD functioning one. Don't pay more than $50 for it. Also a user IIIf can be found for under $350 sometimes. But really, with the FED-5 you're buying an amazing lens (Industar 61 L/D) with a nice functional rear lens cap.</p>

<p>http://photondetector.com/blog/2006/05/21/diy-135-puller/<br>

Hope that helps, also simply send it to me and I will take care of it :)</p>

<p>hmm, I certainly want the two B&W (Acros and Tri-X come across very differently and I shoot Acros @200 and Tri-X at 1250 making one much more useful at night. Maybe I'll simply get like 8 rolls of KR, a few of Ektar (extra speed, different pallette with less contrast and I can process at home) and some iso 400 color.</p>

<p>All my computer's have been on a large UPS for years, and it's saved my butt several times. The only one that's not is my analogue video capture box cause the UPS causes strange interference if it's too close to my S-Video capture, even with well shielded cables.</p>

<p>Trust me I have full intention to shoot a ton of B&W (switched to ordering 100ft of Acros and 5 rolls of Tri-X)</p>

<p>Anyone know a good cheap finder to accompany the J-12?</p>

<p>I would be shooting Tri-X @1250, which I love the way it looks in Diafine, but I might pickup some Delta 400 for the T-grain. I'll think about picking up another Series 1, love my 28-90. And yes, the Soviet lenses are amazing values.</p>

<p>Yeah, that's the way I'm leaning due mainly to the lack of a meter (Sunny 16's dandy for B&W and Color Neg, but I don't trust it for chromes). So currently...<br>

Leica IIIf<br>

Industar 61L/D 50mm 2.8<br>

I may buy a Jupiter 12 35mm 2.8<br>

100ft Tri-X in Diafine roughly ISO 1250 (guessing exposure)<br>

5 rolls Acros in Rodinal<br>

Maybe a roll of two of TMY-2 in Rodinal for low light<br>

Minolta X-700<br>

50mm1.7 and two vivitar zooms<br>

4 rolls K64<br>

5 rolls Provia 100f<br>

3 rolls Ektar<br>

2 rolls Portra 400VC<br>

2 rolls Velvia 50</p>

<p>Okay, so I'm leaving for two-weeks in Cape Cod in a few weeks, I haven't been in several years. I currently have two "good" bodies (other than an assortment of half-functoning SLR's and FSU rangefinders, and my Brownie collection) a Minolta X-700 with a variety of decent lenses (Rokkor 50mm 1.7, Vivitar Series 1 28-90f/2.8, and a low-end Vivitar 70-210f/4.5) my other body I'm using right now is a Leica IIIf with an Industar 61L/D Soviet lens (great ultra-cheap lens btw, good bokeh) and I may add a cheap 35mm lens to that body. My main question though is film, obviously B&W is a cliche choice for Cape Cod, but which body should I use for B&W and Color? I'll be ordering 100ft of Tri-X and a few rolls of Acros, all to be processed in either Diafine or Rodinol. My color body would be mainly shooting a mix of Ektar, 400VC, KR64, Provia 100f, and Velvia 50. Which body would you choose for this and do you have any additional suggestions?</p>

<p>I used them twice, clean negatives with little adhesive covers similar to Mystic's old negatives to keep the dust away. But $7.99 for process and web posts is crazy.</p>

<p>Try Diafine, it's a great developer for Tri-X and produced great results between EI 800 and 1600. You can develop at stock instructions and your results will come out fine, no matter which EI it was shot at.</p>

<p>

<table border="0" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="0" width="448">

<tbody>

<tr>

<td align="left"></td>

</tr>

<tr>

<td align="left"><img src="http://images.postdirect.com/master/11/1133890/spacer.gif" alt="" /></td>

<td align="left">

<p><strong>Film Processing service* will be discontinued as of March 5, 2009, BUT...</strong> <br /> <br /> • We will still process any film mailed by March 8 (film mailed after March 8 will be returned).<br /> <br /> • All images previously uploaded through Film Processing will remain in your account.<br /> <br /> • You can continue uploading images taken from your film camera by burning them onto a CD while processing your film, and then uploading them to your account. <br /> <br /> Thank you for being a loyal film customer. We apologize for any inconvenience the closure of our processing labs may cause. <br /> <br /> Regards, <br /> <br /> The Kodak Gallery Team <br>

Just got this email, I say anyone who charges $8 for a C-41 processing and web-sized scans with the option to order prints/bigger scans had it coming to them. But it's hard to think that big lab's are stopping film development.<br /> </p>

</td>

</tr>

</tbody>

</table>

</p>

<p>I realise you've probably already gone, but I can't recommend enough traveling to some of the nude/alternative beaches during the off-season because they look absolutely untouched by man. They are completely empty and secluded making some great B&W landscapes.</p>

<p>I just ordered 20 rolls from Freestyle, I suggest everyone does the same. Better safe than sorry.</p>

<p>I got my Minolta Scan Dual II for $75 on ebay and it has served me well.</p>

As someone using Windows 7 M3 as my main OS right now, I can say it's a big improvement over Vista 64 (the

current pre-beta M3 built is quite stable) but Vista 64 SP1 is also a fine OS, if you can't wait 6-9 months go for Vista.

Most of the differences with Windows 7 are user interface related, plus Vista SP2 is right around the corner. As a

Photographer with access to MS beta apps, I currently use the PDC build of Win 7 64 on my desktop, dual booting

Vista SP2 beta 32 just in case, and I use Leopard on my Mac laptop. All work great with Lightroom, 64bit CS4, etc.