nir_dvorai

<p>o.k. <br>

thanks, i will give the tri-x320 a go. <br>

I personally don't llike the digit outlook of the tmax line.<br>

nir</p>

<p>i'm looking for a b&w 4x5 film for large prints.<br>

the print size is 80x40 inch.<br>

the object that i shot is a reproduction for large photo, that will be shut in studio<br>

but without flash.<br>

i was thinking of kodak txp320 or maybe one of the low iso efke film?<br>

or maybe something else?<br>

thanks<br>

nir</p>

<p>Larry and Kevin- Thanks a lot. I believe I got all I need for the start.<br>

Nir</p>

<p>Look very impressive Kevin.<br>

Do you pre soak the film in water before develop? If yes- how long?<br>

How long was the stand development?<br>

Do you recommend stand development for studio shooting while using CHS 50?<br>

Thanks for sharing. </p>

<p>Hi,<br>

I wonder to comper the visible grain of Adox 50 and 100 to newer emolustion film<br>

like t-max 100 or even tri-x 400. <br>

I mean- if the Adox film is "old school" are they going to be more grainy compere to modern film?<br>

And one more thing - What is your largest silver print from Adox 50 and 100 that you produced from<br>

120 film without noticable unpleasent grain?<br>

I believe I will not print larger then 20x24 on condenser head. <br>

(I am not asking about the Adox 25, because I don't like to use this film)<br>

Thanks,<br>

Nir</p>

Does anyone have a starting time to develop Fuji Acros 100 @ barry thornton two bath?

Film was shut at 100 iso.

My Kodak tri-x 400 time is 4 minutes.

Thanks.

Nir

<p>Thanks friends for informative answers. <br>

I asked just out of curiosity. <br>

But regarding my A16 back issue- the retails store will send me a replace one.<br>

I hope for better chance at this one..</p>

<p>O.K.<br>

By the time I gave the camera full round with A16 back- do I fill/hear at some point the disengagement between the magazine transport mechnism and camera transport gear, or is it "clear" to the user?</p>

<p>I had a though regarding Hasselblad 500/501 camera body and their synchrony with<br>

A16 back.<br>

I was thinking since the body designed to work with 6x6 film, when loading the body crank,<br>

he make a full round that is fit to stretchand load the 6x6 frame in place.<br>

So when attaching A16 (6x4.5) back and loading the body crank- he still make a full round that fit to load<br>

a 6x6 film size, but since the 6x4.5 is smaller and need less stretch between the frames, how does the camera body crank synchrony with the back to load the film just in place?<br>

(I hope my question is clear, I'm sorry but English is not my native language)<br>

Nir </p>

<p>Thank's guys..<br /> Q.G. you don't know how much you right..<br /> Two weeks ago I bought an A16 from E-bay 100% positive seller. The seller send it to Israel @ EMS full cost and I paid taxes as well, but after open the box I was shock to discover that the seller sent me A16S back... So now I bought anther back (after returning the A16S, but still lost 100USD) from reputable used store @ EX grade, again- paid all the taxes and so, but now the back is faulty.. even if I return it I still lost anther 80-100USD...<br /> And thats without mention my camera the need auxiliary shutter repair and my lens that need shutter adjustment.. (only bought 1 month ago..)</p>

<p>Boy, I was waiting so many years to buy my first Hasselblad kit, saving the money. My studies begin in less then a month, and I so stack...<br /> Nir</p>

<p>Hi,<br>

I have an Hasselblad A16 back look like this model:<br>

<a href="http://www.shopssl.de/epages/es104977.sf/?ObjectPath=/Shops/es104977_shphoto/Products/26463">http://www.shopssl.de/epages/es104977.sf/?ObjectPath=/Shops/es104977_shphoto/Products/26463</a><br>

When I put a film inside and turn the film winding crank<br>

the film won't stop at number 1 frame and can goes on and on.<br>

When I attached the back to the 501C body, I felt that when winding the camera main crank it goes <br>

"on empty" and only at frame 6 the camera crank started to advanced the film on the back.<br>

This is the first time I put film in this back (the back bought used).<br>

Do I need to do something to synchrony between the back and the camera? or is it spouse not to stop<br>

at frame 1? <br>

Thanks.</p>

<p>Hi,<br>

(I'm started to get embarresst about my equipment condition..)<br>

I have an Hasselblad 50/4 C Distagon lens. When rotating the aprture ring<br>

while the lens is detached from the camera- I see no change in the aprture blades, but I guess<br>

this fine?<br>

When atteching the lens to the camera body (my famous 501C..) I then push the mirror up button<br>

and looking throgh the lens and play with the aprture ring, I then see or think that the aprture didn't goes all the way to 22 and it looks like 16. But when release the shutter- it looks like the aprture close one more stop and goes to 22.<br>

Is it normal?<br>

Thanks again for your true help</p>

<p>Yes it's still wrong.<br>

Unfortunately I'm a student with low budget and leave outside the U.S.A<br>

at the moment can't affored my self the service.. I hope it will not have affect on my photos.<br>

Thanks.</p>

<p>Hi,<br>

I just discover that in the axillary shutter of my 501c, <br>

the lower part is not come back paralleled to the upper part<br>

after the shot.<br>

Is it can cause light leak or other problem?<br>

Please see photo. </p>

<div></div>

<p>Thanks guys.<br>

I will try to test the cord first..</p>

<p>Today I try for the first time to attach a flash to my 2 lenses and got.. nothing.<br>

The flash is Vivtar 283. The lenses 150/4 CF and 50/4 C. The camera 501C.<br>

I attach the cable to the lens socket and to the flash. since I don't have a cold/hot shoe I put the camera and the lens on the table. I switched ON the flash and when the flash loaded I release the shutter. The camera fired but the flash didn't put out any amount of light at all.<br>

Did I miss something or there is some problem?<br>

Thanks.</p>

<p>I'm looking for a used 80mm lens for my Hasselblad camera.<br>

Since I live outside the US, I prefer to buy from reputable seller with guarantee.<br>

I found 2 choice at KEH.COM which will fit my (low) budget:<br>

1. 80mm C *T (old style) grade EX- 429USD.<br>

2. 80mm CF *T grade BRG- 399USD (with caps)<br>

the sales man told me that the two lenses in working order, only in the CF the focus is "unknown" if smooth.<br>

Also- both lenses have cleaning marks on front barrel and dust that won't affect image- according to the sales man words.</p>

<p>Can you please advise me which lens should I get: the old one but cosmetically better or the CF one but lower grade?</p>

<p>Thanks. </p>

<p>Is it possiable and useful to use only leveling base to attach<br>

your camera to your tripod? <br>

(I'm using Hasselblad with 50 - 150mm lenses)<br>

Thanks.</p>

<p>Thanks.<br>

You've been very helpful. :-)</p>

<p>Thanks.<br>

But I don't understand one thing- Do you attach the P filter holder to your lens with a regular filter adapter for mounting filter bracket? <br>

Or do you use anther filter adapter between? <br>

Also- What type of lens cap do I need to my old 50mm/4 Distagon?<br>

Thanks</p>

<p>Did any of you used an Cokin filter holder attached to Hasselblad lenses?<br>

I would to read your comment about that outfit and what kind of filter holder size (A/P/Z) you used<br>

with your lenses.<br>

Thanks. </p>

<p>Also,<br>

As a student that living outside the U.S.A<br>

It's very expensive to me to send my lens to CLA,<br>

even though I really wanted to.. </p>

<p>Thanks folks, <br>

I think I will look forward to anther one. <br>

200USD for 80/2.8 - I never saw at that price.. I wish though.. </p>