thomas_graichen

<p>one possible option with the v700 is to put the 9x12 negs sligtly angled into the 4x5 holders, so that it is laying on the four corners - this works well as the negs are quite thick and will not bend and this way you keep them in focus, which would not be the case if you put them on the glass directly i think. afterwards you'll have to rotate the scan a bit of course. i would also highly recommend vuescan for scanning.<br>

best wishes - thomas</p>

<p>just in case someone is interested: i played around a bit more on that topic, sadly did not find any solution yet, but summarized everything i found out so far here:<br /> <br /> <a href="http://www.flickr.com/groups/rodinal/discuss/72157625216183761/" target="_blank">http://www.flickr.com/groups/rodinal...7625216183761/</a><br /> <br /> best wishes - thomas</p>

<p>i can just repeat the recommendation to at least try tri-x @ iso1600 with rodinal 1:100 stand development - i was really surprised about the low grain, good dynamic range and good shadow detail with this combination, at least if the negs get scanned - some of my images as examples:</p>

<p>

<p>all three were shot handheld with an olympus xa3 at iso1600 and the last two images have a pointer to the development instructions in their description ...</p>

<p>good luck with whatever you use at the end and best wishes from berlin - thomas</p>

<p>something must be going on with gravity of fresh vs. expired developer here<br /> <br /> <a href=" target="_blank"> /> <br /> look above the shoes - you can clearly see how the fresh developer from the dark shoes falls down down to the top of the image and overdevelops it a bit (the top of the image this time was at the bottom of the tank)<br /> <br /> this time i tried to play with a few things: i used the agitation scheme described here<br /> <br /> <a href="http://figitalrevolution.com/2009/08/04/stand-development-part-2/" target="_blank">http://figitalrevolution.com/2009/08...opment-part-2/</a><br /> <br /> i used one 120 film alone in a jobo 1520 with 4-600ml, lifted the spool a little bit from its lowest position and i did another 5 gentle inversions after about half an hour. at least this time there is not such a strong overdevelopment of the bottom (but it would be harder to see in this image anyway)<br /> <br /> i'm very close to giving up stand and semi stand with 120 film - maybe mixing the best of it with normal dev and agitating 5 times in the range of every 5min for half an hour - anybody every tried something like this?<br /> <br /> best wishes - thomas</p>

<p>hello everybody,<br /><br />i'm writing this here because i really like stand development with rodinal, because of its simplicity and results. i have it working very well for me so far for 135/35mm film, but i'm consistently having problems with uneven development with 120/medium format film. the problem is that the film on one side always gets overdeveloped, which means on the top or bottom end of the spool in the tank (film running rolleiflex/hasselblad style through the camera - so upwards and not from one side to the other) - i did not yet check exactly if it is top or bottom (i think it is the bottom - but i might be wrong here). i searched the net a lot about this and also found some other people who seemed to have a similar problem, but so far none of the solutions mentioned worked well for me. what i can rule out as possible reasons are: light leaks, shutter- or other problems with the camera - happens with different cameras, even leaf-shutter ones, temperature drifts - everything used during the whole development procedure is stored at rom temperature at which also everything happens, bad agitation scheme - if i develop a film with normal agitation it works fine and gives evenly developed results, specific film problems - tried it with lots of films: hp5+, tri-x, fp4+, rollei retro 80s, rollei superpan 200, lucky 100 and more - same problem with all of them, bad developer - the same developer works fine for 35mm, badly mixed developer - i'm mixing it very carefully, scanning problem - no, one can also see it on the negs themself.<br /><br />i'm basically following the recipie from lynn p. miller from the rangefinderforum, which worked perfectly for 35mm for me too:<br /><br />http://www.rangefinderforum.com/forums/showpost.php?p=1068940&postcount=162<br /><br />i'm using jobo tanks - tried one or two films in a 1520 tank (6ml rodinal to 600ml water) and also 2 films in a 1510+1530 tank (8ml rodinal to 1l water) with an empty 35mm spool above and below - neither worked. i'm always presoaking the films for about 5min. usual times for box speed are: 1min about 20 inversions and then stand for 1 hour, but also tried for instance 30sec inversions (about 10) at the beginning and then 5 inversions every 10 minutes for 40 minutes - always the same problem. i'm out of ideas now. the problem mostly manifests on large areas of bright sky etc., but looking carefully it is always present and the overdevelopement seems to always be only on one side and as it looks like always on the same.<br /><br />a sample scan of such a 120 film (shot with a bronica s2a) can be found at<br /><br />http://meer-berlin.org/tmp/uneven.jpg<br /><br />my questions now are: did anyone else face the same problems? do you have any suggestions, ideas or solutions for this problem? i'm open for everything which basically gives the usual stand development characteristics, so i'm also fine with semi stand strategies. if i do not find any solution for this problem, i might have to go back to normal development with medium format film, which i do not really want.<br /><br />a lot of thanks in advance and best wishes from berlin - thomas</p>

<p>i can just repeat the idea of tri-x rodinal and stand<br /> development - have a look at<br /> <br /> /> <br /> this is f1.7 at 1/60 (equal to around iso1600...3200 at<br /> that light) ... a link with some more info on how development<br /> was done i had added to this picture<br /> <br /> /> <br /> might be worth a try - but you should play around with it,<br /> before you use it seriously<br /> <br /> best wishes - thomas</p>

<p>hi federico,</p>

<p>you may try pixelgrain or pps (google will help you to find out more about them) - both are located near alexanderplatz in mitte and are pro level labs.</p>

<p>best wishes from berlin - thomas</p>

<p>you can do this much easier with 35mm cameras as well - see</p>

<p> http://fmphotocourses.blogspot.com/2007/07/how-to-make-redscale-film.html</p>

<p>and the lomo society even has discovered, that you can squeeze some money out of this and sells it as "redscale" film for a lomo typical price ...</p>

<p>best wishes from berlin - thomas</p>

<p>hello,<br /> <br /> just a very simple question: is there any traditional b&w film, which has a latitude similar to that of the chromogenic xp2 or bw400cn films, which easily give acceptable results from around iso100 to iso800 without adapting the development? this way one can expose the same film depending on the situation partially at a lower iso and partially at a higher iso on the same film and still get useable results (for instance for day/night).<br /> <br /> a lot of thanks in advance and best wishes from berlin - thomas</p>

<p>hi,<br>

just a question out of curiousity: why does the exakta varex (at least my IIa with the old times, i.e. 1000, 500, 250, 100, ...) have no 1/10 sec? the high speed dial goes down to 1/25 and the slow one starts at 1/5 - any reason why 1/10 is missing? i can't really imagine any technical reason for this actually. any tricks to get 1/10 sec if needed?<br>

a lot of thanks in advance and best wishes from berlin - thomas</p>

<p>hi all,<br>

thanks for all the responses and especially for the one of roelof - i'll give it a try next time - sounds quite simple to do after all i already did to that camera(s). i just retested it a few times dry with an old film and was not able to reproduce the problem again. may it be eventually that the problem arises from mounting the camera on a tripod without a rolleifix (i.e. distortions on the chassis during winding) or from using different kinds of cable releases vs. hitting the shutter release directly by hand?<br>

once more, lots of thanks and best wishes from berlin - thomas</p>

<p>hi,<br>

thanks for the cla hints, but i was thinking about fixing it myself and look for where to start. i already made this rolleicord a working one from two broken cameras, so i'm quite used to disassemble and adjust it, but i'm not yet sure about how the transport is being adjusted and where my problem might come from.<br>

once more a lot of thanks in advance and best wishes - thomas</p>

<p>hi,<br>

i have a rolleicord (IV btw.) which has some kind of transport problem from time to time (but not always): i can shoot a few frames and at some point the transport does no longer stop at the next frame, i.e. i can continue and continue to turn the transport knob until the film is through the camera. the frame number window continues to count forward and the lock preventing the shutter from being cocked (if double exposure prevention is set to off) is not getting released when this occurs. sometimes the transport stops again normally after some frames and sometimes not until the film is gone. does anyone (rick maybe?) have an idea what the problem with this rolleicord is? is this maybe a common problem?<br>

a lot of thanks in advance and best wishes from berlin - thomas</p>

<p>hi,<br>

matt denton has some notes on electro rangefinder adjustment at<br>

http://mattdentonphoto.com/cameras/yashica_gsn.htm<br>

best wishes and merry christmas - thomas</p>

hello,

 

does anyone know what kind of tool is required to adjust the autofocus on a canon eos 300d (digital rebel)? the

1.3mm hex tool, which is used for the canon eos 350d (digital rebel xt) and up does not seem to work on the 300d.

somewhere i read, that for this camera a square tool is required, but i did not find any more information about

it. thanks a lot in advance for any pointer into the right direction and best wishes

 

thomas

hi markus,

 

thanks a lot for your reply, but my gear with the numbers is fine. i finally disassembled it again and found out, that a spring

on the lensboard which moves the linkage to the transport back was missing which most probably resulted in the erratic

behaviour.

 

best wishes - thomas

hi all,

 

i have just brought a rolleicord IV back to live, cleaned and adjusted everything and according to a test film it looks very good again, but

there is one problem i noticed while shooting the test film: the transport blocks sometimes, i.e. after shooting a frame i can't advance to the

next one. it seems to have something to do with the linkgage between the transport and the shutter release. somehow it sometimes (about

once frame per film, but a different one each time and sometimes not at all) does not seem to release the transport after release properly.

does anyone have any idea what exactly might be the reason for this? i would prefer solutions which do not require me to disassemble the

transport side or the lensboard again, because this way i would most probably lose my current focus calibration again.

 

a lot of thanks in advance and best wishes

 

thomas

hi,

 

i just got a unopened package of neofin docu from about 6+

years ago - does it make sense to give it a try or is it simply

too old to waste a film for testing?

 

a lot of thanks in advance and best wishes

 

thomas

hi,

 

does anyone know what do i have to disassemble to get the front plate off on a rolleiflex 2.8e? do i have to disassemble any of the knobs

(self timer etc.) or is it just the typical four screws like on a rolleicord? i need to get it off to recalibrate the viewing lens for a new ground

glass.

 

a lot of thanks in advance and best wishes - thomas

hi,

 

this is just in case someone finds it useful: after trying to find out for quite some time, why my rolleicord IV does not focus properly at

infinity and why it always front-focusses, despite of the fact that i reproducably adjusted it using a goundglass on the film plane and

checked it using a 15x loupe, plus adjusted it exactly for close focussing the same way and also brought the viewing and taking lens in

sync perfectly i finally found out, that the reason for all the trouble was a slightly bent pressure plate. it was just bent a fraction of a

millimeter in the middle and it was not visible directly - i could only see it by putting a straight steel ruler on its surface and looking against

the light this way. exchanging the back with a non bent one from another broken rolleicord fixed all the problems and it is now working and

focussing as expected. i assume that this (besides varying quality control) is also the reason for the more mediocre optical quality of the

chinese seagull rollei clones: their pressure plate seems to be always slightly bent around the center - so correct in the middle and the

corner, but not inbetween. by the way: does anyone know if it is possible to disassemble the pressure plate (the 6x6 and 24x36mm

switchable one) from the back? and does anyone maybe have an idea of how to eventually make the pressure plate flat by filling the

"holes" with glue or some other material?

 

best wishes - thomas

i hope to be able to attach the other picture here ...<div></div>

hi,

 

i'm looking for shoulder strap options for a Welta Reflekta II and a Meopta Flexaret VI - i hope that the shoulder strap of another (maybe

mf) camera will fit on these two cameras, so that i can use such an other strap on them ... i have made two pictures showing the cameras

where the strap goes ... the sizes are: Reflekta II: outer diameter 10mm, inner diameter 5mm, inner part is about 2mm long and the outer

part around 1mm ... Flexaret VI: outer diameter 8mm, inner diameter 4mm, inner part is about 3mm long and the outer part around 1mm ...

does anyone know any cameras with similar sized strap lugs?

 

a lot of thanks in advance and best wishes form berlin

 

thomas

 

p.s.: for all the non-metric folks - 1 inch is 25.4mm<div></div>

hello,

 

i have a super angulon 8/90 with perfect glass but a broken shutter (really broken - so not fixable) and i'm looking for a way to get that lens

back working. after some research i found out, that these shutters are some kind of a dying species and as it seems s.k.grimes is one of

the last persons repairing the remaining ones. i contacted him, but any solution would cost more than a new super angulon with shutter. i

also tried to use the #00 shutter of a agfa isolette (and the one from some other medium format camera as well) and the lens parts fit quite

well, but it looks like those medium format #00 shutters are about 2mm thicker than the one of the super angulon and the resulting image

quality in the corners is thus more holga than 4x5. my question now is: did anyone try to machine such an medium format shutter to the

proper size to fit a #00 super angulon (or other large format lens) to it properly?

 

otherwise: does maybe someone reading this have a working spare #00 shutter for a super angulon (maybe from a lens with bad glass)

which he/she would like to sell to me?

 

a lot of thanks in advance and best wishes from berlin

 

thomas

i think most probably this is another version of name changes to avoid copyright and

trademark problems between east and west carl zeiss on the west german market ...

 

best wishes - thomas

just to answer my own question for completeness: the rb67 grip fits perfectly on an

rz67 - even the release button on the grip works fine ... i think it even has a slight

advantage over the rz67 grip: you should be able to also use it with rb lenses, because

the shutter release is mechanical and not electronic only as it is the case for the rz67

grip - please correct me if i'm wrong

 

best wishes - thomas