ldkphotography

<p>Hey Guys,</p>

<p>Maybe we would be better approaching the impossible project to see wether they could purchase the 4x5 machinery from Fuji and start to produce there own film.</p>

<p>At the moment the impossible project has no way to produce 4x5 film sheet or pack.<br>

Does anyone think this is a good idea? Does anyone have any means to contact the impossible project ??</p>

<p>Starting to get short of 4x5 materials. Pretty scary. I can only get 160vc in 4x5 colour film from Kodak now.</p>

<p>Luke.</p>

<p>Hey Doug, <br>

I am very aware of the T3, I hated them. The T2 is a much better camera in my opinion much more user friendly. The T3 has menus and sub menus and more bloody sub menus :-) I also hated the colour. <br>

I started this forum trying to gain a bit of insight into a digital equivalent.<br>

Thanks tho Doug. </p>

<p>Doug a contax T3 is a film camera. Thankyou for the post tho. <br>

Thanks to everyone who has responded and critiqued. I am very aware that the contax t2 is a 35mm full frame camera. :-) However....... Over the last few days I have been testing out my new Canon S90. Much to my surprise. Its Bloody amazing. <br>

I took the advise of Andrew. Set my camera to release priority, Used the focus assist beam at 400 ASA 125th @ f2 Wide open @ 28mm. These are the results I got. <br>

They have been processed using alien skins Tri-x 400 filter with 135% salt and pepper grain. <br>

I printed them at A2 (180 DPI) and am Astounded. </p>

<p>Apart from the focus assist beam illuminating my subject this camera is the bee's Nee's.<br>

It definatly Lacks the tonal range that Tri-x Film gives me. But wide open its almost as sharp as my contax T2 @ 2.8. </p>

<p>Does this mean canon have made a camera that works? ? ? ? ? (Or at least focus')</p>

<p><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4011/4545181702_9b3855bb70.jpg" alt="" width="380" height="500" /><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4010/4545181800_6925deca0b.jpg" alt="" width="380" height="500" /><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4072/4544548473_bef02e6c48.jpg" alt="" width="380" height="500" /><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4059/4545181616_bb41afb060.jpg" alt="" width="500" height="380" /><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4003/4544548835_ee07c44a62.jpg" alt="" width="500" height="384" /><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4009/4544548369_e4ee4513ce.jpg" alt="" width="500" height="380" /></p>

<p>Hey guys,</p>

<p>I'm a photographer from Melbourne, Australia. <br /> I Primerally shoot documentary black and white work for musicians etc... I have been using for the last 5 years a contax T2. Anyone who has used one of these knows how bloody amazing they are. <br /> All of my work is shot in near pitch black during gigs. I use my T2 to take shots of the crowd with the in built flash. The autofocus of this camera for me is great and there is next to no lag from pressing the trigger to the flash firing and the shot been focused. How it does this I have no Idea its amazing.</p>

<p>I unfortunatly like most are shooting more and more digital. I have been trying to find an adequate replacment for my T2 for quite a while. there HASN'T been one. I have tried several thousand models. The flash lag and shutter lag has been hurrendous in the pitch black dark conditions.</p>

<p>I recently tried the new Canon S90 and G11 cameras. they were one thousand times better than anything else I have ever used. But unfortunatly still didnt cut the mustard.</p>

<p>Am I overlooking a model or make of camera?<br /> Can someone please recomend a camera for this purpose?</p>

<p>You can view the kind of work I produce with my T2 here: http://www.lukedavidkellett.com/?gallery=documentary</p>

<p>Any one able to help? <br /> Thanks for your time. Luke.</p>

<p>Images Taken with Contax T2, Tri-x 400, Flash on camera processed @ N. <br>

<img src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2352/4507310758_b19d55e829_o.jpg" alt="" width="327" height="450" /><img src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2682/4507310760_c064df0fee_o.jpg" alt="" width="320" height="450" /><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4047/4507310764_b64e461ebf_o.jpg" alt="" width="321" height="450" /><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4022/4507310770_5738a24f93_o.jpg" alt="" width="324" height="450" /></p>

Thanks guys, Ill try 25mins dan, Thanks for the helpfull tips and examples. :-) Beautiful pics.

Ill let you no.

Kind regards, Luke.

Hey Guys, Im trying to figure out dev times for kodak tri-x 400 @ 3200.

I usually use HP5 but I have been loving the results of tri-x through my pro lab.

Im wanting to reproduce the great results in my hand tanks at home.

Im using michrophen at around 20 deggress C.

Does anyone have dev times for this film at 400/800/1600 and 3200 with microphen.

Kind Regards, Luke.

Whoever has responded saying that the newer bodies are the way to go Obviously hasnt Used a nikon FM2 or F3 or as Jeff uses and

F4.

The Old quality is far far far supierior to the new technology.

The Old AIS lenses are better lenses than the new AF ones. Their built better their sharper Lighter and have only a 52mm circumfrence.

The Older Nikon bodies from 20 years ago will outlast any DSLR on the market. Too much technology in a body means theres more to

go wrong If its a travel compact camera your after The FM2 would be my choice over any new 35mm camera.

luke.

By the way I have access to a d2x aswell so I will take both out next time and test both focusing capabilities. :-)

Thankyou for all your help guys.

Hey thankyou all again for your responses.

I've been in touch with our nikon rep and our 70-200 2.8 has been sent back for a repair and a replacement board. We also hav another customer who has had similar issues with the d3 in terms of shutter lag.

Funnyly enough it was again with a 70-200 vr lens.

Nikon havn't accepted anything but we have two D3's and 2 70-200 vr lens' with the same issue.

So its looks like a compatiability issue with certain batches of lens'

I'll let you no if I hear anything more.

Also I have realised the camera was on focus priority which could of had something to do with the shutter lag. But not up to 3 seconds surely????

Luke.

Jason:

Sorry I forgot to ask, how do I check the delay settings on the D3 for exposure?

Cheers, Luke.

Hey guys thanks for all of your quick reply's.

In responce to your questions Im shooting in AV priority at 2.8. I selected the simplist focus point that been the middle of the image at the time and my subjects did have high contrast on their faces compaired with the rest of the room which is why I was so confused about it not finding focus. Usually once focus is found I lock the focus in and then frame my shot quickly bassed around the focus point (hope that makes sence)

Gerald:

"one little hint is find something out there and focus, then turn off the AF switch."

I do use the trick of turning AF off once I have a focus point I require but the D3 wasn't finding the focus I required in the first place.

Moshe:

I can't believe Nikon havn't resolved your issue. This camera is one of the first DSLR's thats mainly designed around its low light performance so not to be able to use it in low light situations is completely nuts especially after paying so much for the camera.

Robert:

"That being said, I have a similar issue at times where the camera acquires focus, gives me the dot in the viewfinder and still does not fire the shutter for a second or so. It usually only does it once in a while, but I do believe this is an issue in firmware or someplace else that needs to be fixed with the camera."

This is the bigger problem i think in that when the camera is focused it still does not fire.

I am lucky enough to work for a profesional rental shop in melbourne which is how I acquired the camera for testing. ill be contacting our nikon rep on monday to discuss the problems before it is sent out to a client again.

Ill let you all no the feedback I get from Her and post the relevant information.

Cheers, Luke.

Hey guys,

Im a music photographer and cover alot of live events in low light. Usually get

a reading of around 125 at 2.8 iso 6400.

Up untill recently Ive been shooting film still 3200 delta pushed because the

noise was too much of an isue for what my work gets used for.

I shoot with a canon 1v 200mm 2.8 prime and a 24-70 2.8 It works well.

I was really excited about trying out the D3 obviously because of its low light

capabilities. Especially with it able to take 14bit raw files was even more

exciting. I was even considering moving to the dark side and joining nikon if it

ment that I could get the same quality out of this camera as I could with my film.

First of the images I got from the camera were incredible, amazing clarity and

the noise was hardly anywhere at 6400 compaired with previous digi's. So the

final image was great really impressed.

BUT the focusing? I was shooting with a 70-200 2.8 vr and the new 24-70 2.8

lens' they refused to find focus in low light and were seeking for hours. I set

the camera focus on one point ai so it would focus quicker and i could manually

adjust.

The 70-200 lens was so slow at focusing in the low light that it was unusable.

I had to manually focus both lens' and holding the D3 with the 70-200 adjusting

focal length and focusing at the same time because my subjects move quickly was

a neer imposability.

Now not only was there a problem with it focusing but if it found focus it

wouldn't fire immediatly. It was take maybe 1.5 seconds to take the first frame

(ONCE IN FOCUS.)

It was so frustrating.

the camera liturally would not take a picture for 2 or 3 second at a time.

Now I no this soounds like a lens issue but because the nikons have the motor to

power the autofocus built into their body's isn't it a big camera problem?

Basically the whole scenario has again re confirmed that digital still has a

long way to go and Id must prefer to be worrying about my images and framing

than why the camera isnt working and waiting for it to take a picture for 3 seconds.

Think Ill go on B and H and buy some more 3200 film.

Any body else had the same issues?

Luke.

Balcar don't replair their units any more well, it takes them 6 weeks to send a circuit board

back un repaired. they dont have an english speaking tech in france and are now owned by

COKIN filters.

Were really strugling. Sending to america is a waste of money and time.

We used to be a balcar authorized repaire agent but no longer have a technition with the

knowledge which is why were looking.

Anyone in australia?

Hey guys, I work for an Australian company called Borge's imaging.

www.borge.com.au

Our repairer who specialized in Balcar flash units and normans unfortunatly passed away at christmas.

We've been really strugling to find someone else to continue with the work.

Does anyone no of any repairers in Australia (or the world) that would like some work?

Were battling on through the repairs but need some help...

any contacts would be apreciated.

Luke. :-)

EPN Is the best kodak emulsion to cross process because of its neutral tones. It doesnt blow colours and look very oldie worldie. I've used it 10 years out of date cross processed and not had any problems with fogging etc....

Luke.

Hey,

Ive been looking into a similar thing as im moving to melbourne indefinatly in march!

Ive found what looks to be a good lab called LAB X in melbourne. Google them for info

theve bee helpfull on the phone.

BUT They didnt no of any darkrooms remaining in melbourne. The Closest ive come to

finding somewhere to do c type printing is the melbourne camera club.

If anyone no's any darkrooms in melbourne please reply with web address' and contact

numbers.

Hope this helps,

Luke.