justin_monroe

<p>before you give me the lecture that neopan acros's "true" iso is "64" and that anything else is "pointless" i've seen it, heard it , know nothing about it and don't care. i just kindly ask for an answer to my question which has nothing to do with that.<br />ok, i recently shot a roll of neopan acros 100 under some pretty low contrast conditions, it was actually kind of rainy outside. so i uprated the ISO to 200 to increase the contrast but now i need help with a developing time. digital truth says 9.5 minutes for iso100 so am i to assume give it maybe 2 1/2 more minutes for iso200 to ensure good development? lets say 11-12 mintes?</p>

<p>i just need some guidence here and any hlep will be appreciated. thanks:)</p>

<p> </p>

based on an incident read. about how much exposure compensation would you give a 180mm lens on a 6x6 camera attached to a 40mm extension tube? i need this info ASAP and any help is appreciated.

 

 

 

i don't need mathematical equations an such, just give it to me in rough/laymens terms lol.

<p>based on an incident read. about how much exposure compensation would you give a 180mm lens on a 6x6 camera attached to a 40mm extension tube? i need this info ASAP and any help is appreciated.<br>

i don't need mathematical equations an such, just give it to me in rough/laymens terms lol.</p>

<p>on a kiev 60 medium format camera; how much would i need to compensate for a 40mm extension tube with a 180mm lens attached to it?</p>

<p>it says "0,4m" printed on it btw, so i'm guessing it's a 40mm.</p>

<p>i'll be using a 180mm lens!</p>

<p>yes, it's a pentacon eastern euro extension tube, so i suppose it would be 40mm</p>

<p>so how much compensation would i need for that?</p>

<p>actually, i think that it's 4mm extension tube, it's just a short one.</p>

<p>I'll be using a 6x6 medium format camera with a short 0,4m extension tube for a close up. how much more exposure should i add from the recommended reading to compensate? </p>

<p>well, my negs aren't anywhere close to 2-3 stops overexposed lmao. i just had to take the pics at ISO 100 instead of 160 becuz i had a pretty big time issue. if anything it's maybe 1/2 to 1 stop overexposed.</p>

<p>I was in a rushed situation during a photoshoot, and quickly switched from a 120 iso 100 B&w film to 120 fuji pro 160s, and becuz of TIME just decided to use the same iso100 settings from the previous roll.<br />so basically i shot it at 100 becuz I didn't have time to re-set the iso and re-meter the subject. so how should i handle this? should i inform the lab about it or just get it developed regularly? i bracketed every exposure also, if that counts for anything.</p>

<p>thanks!</p>

<p>oh my god guys; everything went great. i just calmed down, took a breath and just took pictures, no sweat no worry.</p>

<p>I'd say everything said in this thread was spot-on perfect, flawless information. some of it i already knew, but i needed some re-assurance and you guys devlivered it to me.</p>

<p>thankyou all so very much for you thoughts and insight.<br>

cheers!</p>

<p>ok, off i go i suppose. i'll tell you how things went</p>

<p>thanks for the excellent advice everyone. i'm doing this thing today, and i'm still a bit nervous, but hopefully i'll pull though it with some good stuff.<br>

ok, now on to some more stuff. i generally prefer a wider perspective, which is why i use my film camera instead of my digital camera. i'd use my 10d, but i'm concerned with the fact that crop factor magnifies my 85mm to 135mm, and i'm not sure about that.</p>

<p>is that a positive or negative for this kind of photography?</p>

<p>i've basically been commissioned to photograph my family reunion, but even though i'm related to these people i just don't have the balls for this kinda stuff. i feel like i'd be bothering people going up and just pointing my camera towards them and snapping; especially since i have to use flash. how would you professional types handle this feeling?<br>

and on a purely technical note, what size lenses do you generally use? i have a 50 and an 85mm.</p>

 

<p>any more help from anyone before i go at it?</p>

<p>good suggestions, anyone else wanna share some experience?</p>

<p>to anyone who is experienced in this type of thing. i'm wondering the best way to go about working with 2 people in a "bestfriend" type shoot. I once tried to shoot 2 people at the same time and it was a personal disaster, I had no clue what to do and left what to do up to them. this time we're planning to do both "together" and "individual" shots, but i need alittle help in taking charge in a situation like this. <br />i'll be working outdoors with 2 teenage girls, and i need to know A.how to take charge in directing 2 people into poses etc,. and B. how do i sit each one out for individuals.<br>

of course, I'm gonna let them some of their own poses, but i'd still need help to take charge in directing them a bit.<br>

that's all<br>

thank to anyone who helps :)</p>

<p>@jim appleyard, I suppose we can NEVER know for sure, freestyle says(or atleast right now) that they don't plan on carrying AP in 120. quite frankly I'd be ecstatic if they bring it to 120, very happy indeed. I guess we'll just wait and see in the futrue...</p>

<p>@paul: freestyle isn't going to be selling any other sizes , besides 35mm unfortunately.</p>

thanks for the useful response frank:) have you noticed any "flaws" or abnormalities with the film?

I also doubt it's a flawed master roll, that doesn't make alot of sense if you ask me, someone using it would notice.

 

exactly what would "flawed" entail anyway?

I hope you'll entertain another thread about this topic, I've searched all over google and I keep finding the

same 1 or 2 threads about this on here, and I can't find what I'm looking for.

 

my question is, has anyone confirmed beyond a doubt that this is tri-x and plus-x?

 

I know that the canisters are identical to kodak film, heck even the notch at the end of the film leader is

identical. but I was thinking MAYBE it's left over lucky stock in kodak type canisters? i don't know, and i can't

find anything.

<p>thank you all very much for the replies:)<br>

anyway, I asked this question becuz it's just so frusttrating, I pay ULTRA attention to composition and I try as hard as I can to meter properly, but I'm always just so iffy with my metering technique.<br>

the last time I over-exposed my negatives during a portrait session I shot my 400iso film at iso 200, used an incident meter with a fresh battery, with the dome pointed back at the camera, and just used those settings. the conditions were rather drab, nothing overly dark or overly light, so I just don't know what the heck happend this time AGAIN. i may have over-developed, but i'm still not sure.</p>

I've got a gossen luna pro F light meter and I'm not quite sure how to use it. when it's in incident mode exactly

what am I supposed to do? for outdoor metering do I place the meter close to someones face with the white cell

pointed towards the camera, or do I place the cell sideways and in front of the subject? exactly what do i do.

 

admittedly i'm not great at metering, that's why i use incident; and I ask because I continually overexpose my negatives in important situations

and I can't let this go on anymore, i'm not really a beginner but i figured this would be the best forum for

this, this is a solid meter by most accounts so i figure that i'm probably just not using it right.

<p>thanks for the straight answers, I posted a similar question like this in another forum and everyone started posting mathematical mumbo jumbo, of which i couldn't make heads or tails. I've got an 80mm so I should be fine in what I'm trying to accomplish.<br>

I asked this question because a photographer who's work I greatly admire uses an 8x10 camera and told me that he used a 300mm lens for a shot that I like; so I was just wondering what equivalent in medium format would give me a similar perspective/angle of view. it's just a picture of a girl standing in the street, it's not a super wide angled shot at all, it's alittle bit closer, but there is alot of environment showing in the background. i'd post the image, but i feel funny about posting someone elses work.</p>