sorry_no_photos

<p>I'm going to revive this old thread, since Ravi describes the issue perfectly. Does anyone know if the magnet he refers to can simply be removed? </p>

<p>Thanks for the info, Ray. I was impressed by this shot of the abbey:<br> http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/plaubel-69w-proshift-superwide-center-filter-/281512759408?pt=UK_Film_Cameras&hash=item418b77d070<br> ...until I noticed that the verticals weren't entirely parallel. </p>

<p>I have the Mamiya with the shift lens (50mm), which can shift 16mm upwards. While the Plaubel can only shift 15mm, I'm wondering if the effect is greater, since the camera design is similar to a rangefinder (the mamiya is an SLR). In other words, I'm assuming that the Plaubel's lens is closer to the film plane than the Mamiya's lens is. And if that's the case, would the same shift give a bigger bang for the buck? .<br> I've seen a photo or two online taken with the Plaubel, and the final result does seem better (ie, the image seems to show a larger shift displacement) than what I can usually attain with my Mamiya. <br> Thanks in advance.</p>

<p>Thanks Marcelo. No, no filter was on it.<br> <br />Thanks Edwin. The tech did mention the 4 second limitation in auto mode, so I'm positive that the mention of EV 4 referred to exposure value.<br> Thanks Arthur. I suppose it couldn't hurt to give them a call. <br> <br />I did a bit more testing last night. ISO 100. Found that at about EV 7.5 and below, the meter ceased to function correctly. </p> <p> </p>

<p>I received this reply from Hasselblad tech support:<br> Light conditions below EV4 are outside the range for the the xpan light metering system. It's not sensitive enough for such a dark environment. Metering wasn't the top priority when developing this product since most users were expected to shoot manual. <br> And here is my reply:<br> I’m testing it a bit more, and I’m finding that even in an ambient light level of about EV 6.5, the xpan meter flashes between the negative and positive indicators, while the red dot has absolutely no tendency to light up. It is only in a light level of about EV 9, that the unit behaves properly, and the red dot is able to light up by itself. <br> (Oh, and I always shoot in manual mode anyways).<br> <br /><br /></p> <p> </p>

<p>I think mine is toast, but someone on flickr said that xpan's don't like low light. Can anyone confirm this for me? As a concrete example, mine won't work for an ambient light level (as determined by my other cameras and a minolta light meter) of f/5.6 and 4 sec's and ISO 100. All the meter does is flash between the negative and positive sign, with no hint of the middle dot wanting to light up. Or sometimes, it will just flash the negative sign (and will continue to do so, even if I open the camera up to f/4 and 8 sec's and ISO 200). <br /> <br />The middle dot will work properly, but only in significantly brighter conditions. <br /> <br />Thanks in advance.</p>

<p>So, after a 40 year lapse, I'm going to try my hand at darkroom stuff again (35mm). I just want to process the film, since I'll then be scanning at home and sending any decent digital files to the local photo shop for printing. <br> <br />I did a quick search and found this tutorial:<br> http://www.stevehuffphoto.com/2010/02/16/film-how-to-develop-scan-and-print-with-no-darkroom-required-by-max-marinucci/<br> Does anyone know of any other good tutorials? <br> And Max just mentions b&w. Is it possible to use a fairly simple process like this on chromes? <br> Thanks in advance.<br> </p>