craig_supplee

I just picked up a Beseler 45MXT w/ a 50mm f2.8 lens. This enlarger came w/ 35

and 6x6 neg holders. Is this lens going to work for both formats, and what size

paper could I go up to using that lens. Thanks

My question was directed at B&W development.

I know this question probably belongs in another forum, but I am just wondering

how many of you that shoot with the classics do your own chemical film and /or

enlarging using conventional methods.

I think I figured out the problem. In back of the forked brackets rivoted to the door frame are bosses that the bracket is supposed to bind against when the lens is fully open. There is a lot of slop in the brackets, so they don't create a bind or pinch point to hold the lens mount in place. After discovering this, I thought I would take another check on the bellows, since I have been opening it a lot. It looks like the heavens in there when I shine a light on it. I think this one will just take a spot on my display shelf for the rest of its (or mine) days. Thanks again for all your help everyone.

My model has single long arms. This site has my style camera. http://home.rmci.net/deanw/Agfa_Viking.html

The main arms lock at the bellows base, they just don't lock the seconary arms that support the lens. This allows the lens to wobble on its pivots.

Paul,

 

There are no springs on the side arms that the lens mounts to. There are small springs on the forked brackets that the lens mount fits into. These actually are set up to make these brackets push against the mount. In looking at another camera online, it appeared that these were the same, so I thought mine were right. If I pull on the lens mount, it will pull into position, but not stay there. There seems to be no lock type feature. I have not uploaded any pics on this site yet, maybe I will research that and get some pics up tonight. I know this problem is very hard for me to explain.

Ok,

 

Yours is different. I have 2 ears that come off the bottom of the lens mount, and these slide into forked brackets that are attached to the side pivot arms. The problem is, these brackets are spring set so that they don't try to hold the lens in the forward position. I don't have any pics that I can upload to show you.

Hi Tim,

 

It is a similar model to the readyset. Has the same mechanisms for the front cover, lens mount hinges, etc. This is in very good shape, owned by a woman that probably took very few pics, so it has not been abused with bent parts or anything like that.

The above are all excellent!

OK, here goes,

 

1. It IS all about the light, I just wish I could capture more of it.

 

2. I love digital because it allows me to get shots I probably would have missed on film, or at least incorrectly exposed.

 

3. I hate digital because you can load up a card with several hundreds of shots, and maybe all of them won't be worth anything compostionally.

It's too easy to just blast away.

 

4. I am learning a vast amout on PN and other photo sites. Now if I could just remember it all.

 

5. I hate Photoshop because the learning curve will take the rest of my life. I am too impatient for that.

 

6. I love the fact that old manual MF cameras make me slow down and concentrate on the composition, lighting, the zone system (almost forgotten recently shooting digital), camera settings, etc.

 

7. I spend way too much time thinking about going out to shoot whatever, and not actually doing it.

 

8. I have a chance to buy the same model as my first camera I sold several years ago, even though I probably wouldn't use it. Just the memories attached to it make it something to think about.

 

9. I know as long as I live that I will hope the next picture is better than the last.

 

10. I also think that I will never capture exactly on film what my eyes were seeing at the time. There is no way (yet) to put that part of me into a picture.

I think Todd is correct in his thoughts about what some of these pictures should look like coming from some of the old cameras.

My question is: How much for the TRUCK??

I have a Agfa/Ansco Viking that will not securely hold the lens/shutter

assembly in position when it is unfolded. The lens pivot side arms (black

painted) need to come forward to connect the shutter trip lever, but there is

nothing to lock them in place. The bellows pulls them back enough that the lens

pivots on the mount, and the trip lever won't engage the shutter lever. Anyone

have any ideas on this? Thanks.

 

Craig

Isopropyl Alcohol, aka: Rubbing Alcohol here in the states can also work. The higher alcohol % the better. This can be bought in drug stores. If the shutter is off the camera, you can simply drop it in a small container of alcohol and let it soak. Another product that works is electrical contact cleaner. This does not leave any residue. Highly flammable though.

I just picked up an Isolette with the typical bellow corner leaks. I have seen

info about using liquid electrical tape on the outside, or a product called

Jacquard that one person painted on the inside, and another used on the

outside. It is supposed to remain flexable when dry. Does anyone hvae any

experience with either of these products, or can recommend another solution,

short of replacing the bellows. (That will ultimately be done in the future)

Thanks.

 

Craig

Trouble is, there are 6 washers and only 4 screw locations. No way of knowing which locations get the extra washer. That's why I was hoping I could compensate the focus by adjusting the viewing lense to make up for the thickness (.005"?)of the washers.

When I bought the camera the finder was off the body along w/ the front plates. There were 6 small brass washers in a plastic container along w/ the various screws. I know they came from the finder as there are depressions in the paint. These were located between the baffle and the finder retaining frame. I just don't know if these would have come from the factory, or if someone tried to adjust the focus using these. Not knowing how many washers went where, my thought was that I could put the finder screen back on w/o the washers, and adjust the viewing lens to compensate. Logic to me says this would be the correct way, but who knows.

Richard, I will try setting it up using infinity this weekend. If I can't seem to get it, I will shoot you an email for help. Thanks to all for the help.

Craig

I tried a short test tonight. I set the focust to 3' which is all the way out on my camera. I then set the camera up so that the film plane was 3' from a wall with target tape on it. My viewing lens does have a set screw to loosen so you can turn it in or out. I adjusted this using a magnifier lens till it was as sharp as I could get it. I then tried focusing on different objects in my small shop and measured the distances. They were all off by various amounts. I guess I have to wait until I can get outside and do the infinity test using tape on the back of the film plane. By the way, the actual distances measured shorter than what the focus dial showed.

Hi to all. I am new here at the photo.net forums. I have a Kalloflex Automat K2

that seems to be off in focus. I have read several posts here about using a

ground glass (which I don't have and don't know where to get) to adjust the

taking lens focus. How exactly would you do that. I thought these were fixed to

the lens plate. I do see on my viewing lens that there is a small screw that

would probably let me adjust this lens. When I focus on an object, the actual

distance is different than what is indicated on the focus dial. What is the

correct procedure to make this correct. Thanks.

 

Craig