Mark Salo

The appeal of the micro four thirds cameras is their small size. I have an EM1 ii and it is already too big. But I do like the layout of the controls. I have the battery grip but I don't like it.

 

I would like a global shutter and a BSI sensor but not enough to spring for a larger camera.

So . . . has anyone successfully done slide duplicating with Olympus Micro 4/3, Olympus MF 50mm 3.5 macro and Nikon es-1 slide copying adapter???

That is an OM-System lens. You will need a micro four thirds adapter.

Oh, I looked at the B&H link I sent to you again - it does not mention "micro". So not likely to be M43 - sorry. No wonder the price is so low for f/2.8. Pls double-check.

Note that an adapter is needed to mount four thirds lenses on micro four thirds bodies.

 

Olympus terminology is Zuiko (four thirds) and M.Zuiko (micro four thirds). Olympus quit manufacturing four thirds lenses in 2008.

 

I can't help you with Panasonic nomenclature.

That setting tells the camera how to zoom during review. The default is to go from full image to 2x and continue to zoom in as you scroll. When I changed my camera to equally value the zoom went from full image to 100% in one scroll.

Well, I'm doing something wrong because my camera doesn't go to 100% in one scroll, it goes to 7x.

What is "Equally Value"? Can't find that term.

It's Olympus-speak for a 100% view. It's a new feature added by the v2.0 firmware update.

 

Gear Menu > D2 > Default Setting > Equally Value

I have two E-M1 MkII bodies. I have "Equally Value" set on one but not the other. I took the same picture on both cameras with the same lens. The "1:1" view is 7x and is identical to the 7x view on the camera that does not have "Equally Value" set. Is this really a wonderful change?

 

I filled out the Olympus contact form to send questions and received the following response:

500 - Internal server error.

There is a problem with the resource you are looking for, and it cannot be displayed.

Dieter: Good luck. I don't know where Adorama might think they're back-ordering them from!

Adorama has pulled this same stunt with other discontinued items.

I can't even reply to some of the posts in this forum.

It is the final straw for me.

Edit: Apparently there is no way to cancel my account but I have set "Auto-Renew" off.

This may be the final straw for me.

I can't even reply to some of the posts in this forum.

It is the final straw for me.

Andrzej Wrotniak, not Steve Wozniak

wrotniak.net

You are all over the place! If I understand, you bought the M10 first and then bought the Nikon full frame. Now the M10 is converted to IR. A filter will not convert you back to visible light.

 

I don't know how many Nikon lenses you have. I have recently switched to Olympus and I am pleased.

 

If I were you, I would buy the M1 and start collecting Olympus lenses, particularly the Pro series. Keep in mind that they can be used on your M10. I would love to have an IR camera.

I've had my PEN-F for over a year. I just checked and have firmware 1.0. I never registered the camera -- I guess that's why Olympus did not notify me to upgrade.

 

What was the upgrade supposed to add or correct?

<p>Ah Ha! "AF Targeting Pad" must be set to "Off".<br>

Edit: No, that didn't work.</p>

<p>I want to set a focus point and have it stay there. I'm using the menu to select a Home Point but the focus point jumps all around at random.</p>

<p>I love the Tamron 28-75 f2.8 on a DX camera.</p>

<p>"Another wrinkle is that if you are triggering on Flash - then a guest with a P/S will set off your strobes every time they take a photo. Which may or may not be a bad thing."</p>

<p>Will cut down on your competition.</p>

<p>Edit: I was assuming that the strobes would over expose the P/S. But the pre-flashes will trigger the strobes so maybe the P/S will be under exposed??</p>

<p>I see: 580 furnishes overall light in the room while 220 follows the subject.<br /><br />Does 220 have auto thyristor mode? Can 580 be slaved optically w/o peanut? (Nikon user here.)</p>

<p>580ex ii (set to manual)<br />optical slave (wein digital peanut) <br />canon 220ex in TTL mode<br /><br />So 220ex fires preflash to calculate exposure for the 220ex and then 580ex ii kicks in and over-exposes the image?</p>

<p>http://support.nikontech.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/25/related/1<br />Answer ID 25<br />What are CHA and FOR codes? <br /><br />When a CF card is inserted into a Nikon Digital Camera the camera checks the card for compatibility and usability. There are three possible results of the test:<br /><br />1) Camera detects valid card, displays number of remaining images in top LCD<br /><br />2) Camera displays “FOR” in top LCD. The camera has detected a valid disk partition map, but was unable to read the first sector of the drive. Formatting the drive in the camera should resolve this condition and allow the card to be used.<br /><br />3) Camera displays “CHA” in top LCD. The camera has detected an invalid partition type or is not working properly. Reformatting the card may allow it to be used. If an approved card gives the "CHA" indicator contact the cards manufacturer for assistance.<br /><br />Please note that the default disk format used in Windows XP is FAT32 and if a card is formatted with this setting on an XP system the D1 will report CHA. Reformat the card as "FAT" to use in the D1 series camera.<br /><br />http://support.nikontech.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/313/related/1<br />Answer ID 313<br />Formatting PC Cards for use in Nikon digital cameras <br /><br />Nikon strongly recommends using the digital camera to format PC cards before use in the camera. Formatting in the camera ensures the proper settings and will give the most reliable operation.<br /><br />Cards can also be formatted using a computer, but the "File System" setting must be changed to "FAT" before formatting (see screen shot to the right. If left at any other setting the card will not work in the camera.<br />Cards can not be formatted using a Macintosh computer.</p>

<p>PS. You should reformat the card every time that you want to erase the old files.</p>

<p>I've been using 4G cards in my D70 for a long time. I don't have it with me so I'm not sure that I have the same specifications as yours. The slower, less expensive cards should work fine.<br /><br />Are you pressing the two format buttons twice?<br />First hold down the buttons until the top display flashes "for."<br />Release and then press down again.<br /><br />Try resetting the camera to defaults?</p>

<p>"Spend the money saved on awesome prime lenses that will will work with the DX Nikon camera system that you will upgrade to after 2-3 years."<br>

I think that Paul meant FX lenses which have full frame coverage. Note that most of the lenses being discussed are designed to work with the crop sensor.<br>

I have been shooting a D70 but all of my lenses are FX. I recently bought a full frame D700 and I'm good to go!</p>

 

As mentioned above, many older Nikon lenses will only work in manual mode on your D80 - no AF, no metering. Check in the back of your manual for lens compatibility.

 

But if you are comfortable with manual cameras, you should see no difference using your D80 in manual mode. The only difference is that you must set ISO and white balance. These are analogous to changing film types.

 

One warning: On my D70, auto white balance does not do well for incandescent. So I use the incandescent setting.

 

Yes, raw files offer the most flexibility but jpegs are more convenient.

I no longer have an SB-50DX - can this be triggered optically?

 

Try the built-in flash to trigger both the SB-50DX and the SB-26.

Sounds to me like pre-flashes are triggering the SB-26.

 

Be sure that the D100 and SB-50dx are both in manual mode. And try the electrial tape suggested above.