Mark Salo

Hello,

Does anyone know if the OMD-EM1 Mark III and OMD-EM1X focusing system is faster than the Mark II ?/QUOTE]

According to the specs, the newer cameras are faster. But keep in mind that the actual focusing speed depends on multiple factors: light level, particular lens, various possible focusing parameters, etc.

Let's not assume.

 

I have a hypothesis:

So let's hypothesize.

The Olympus standard zoom is 14-42 mm. It is more versatile than your alternatives. So, no.

The 14-42 mm is the kit lens. The really good lens is the 12-40 mm: weather sealed and constant aperture.

On paper the Nikon should be hands down superior. I’ve been taking photos since 1977 and have owned a mix of Canons and Nikons. I’ve been using Photoshop since 1993. I’m not so much interested in what’s better about the Olympus, I’m more interested in what I was doing wrong with the Nikon. If I can discover why I’m hoping I can be a better photographer.

Are you creating pictures or creating numbers and graphs?

The Olympus technology is 7 years more advanced and you are 7 years more experienced.

Are you shooting on paper or are you creating images?

Nikon D7100 was introduced in 2013.

Olympus OM-D E-M10 Mark IV was introduced in 2020.

You don't want to know why the Olympus is better. You want to know why the Nikon is not as good.

Interesting.

Alas, no, that is not the case. You still get the +/-3 stops of exposure freedom before the exposure protection kicks in.

So Olympus will protect my exposure for me?

That sounds really GREAT!!

I don't understand your problem.

In menu item "gear/D2", there is a setting "Live View Boost". When set "OFF", the EVF follows the exposure from under to over, etc.

If my subject is under or over exposed, I adjust the exposure properly.

When shooting in a studio using flash and manual exposure, the EVF is dark before the flash fires. So I choose to set "Live View Boost" "ON", in order to be able to see and compose my image.

The mileage of a Panasonic user may vary.

I don't think shooting through a window in any way allows to draw conclusions about the sharpness (or lack thereof) of a lens or to judge the lens' characteristics.

Not only does shooting through a window affect sharpness but also the angle of the shot: straight through/perpendicular vs shooting obliquely at something off to the side.

Thanks to everybody for their suggestions and comments.

 

Just had a thought: I have the aspect ratio set to 3:2- would that perhaps limit the camera function from RAW to jpeg? I imagine default would be 4:3, yes?

 

I'll have to dig my box out to find a cable to connect the camera to my desktop. Pretty sure I did a firmware update on the camera right out of the box- but none since. I bought the camera just as version 2.0 was released. Version I was on its way out and was on sale. Basically for the a bit less than the cost of a new Pro 12/40mm lens, I got the camera body too.

 

Question: will ANY USB > mini USB cable work or should I have THE one supplied by Olympus?

 

I haven't tried a "reset" yet but have been considering doing so.

Aspect ratio affects the JPG. RAW will not be changed.

Firmware is up to version 4.

On my cameras there are two resets: basic and full.

Most USB cables have data function. Either your cable will work or it won't.

I included a link to firmware update instructions in my post above.

The amount of data captured is determined by the sensor, not the lens. Also the SD card records the data captured by the sensor and has nothing to do with the lens.

Have you pressed the <OK> button and tried to change JPG/RAW via the LCD screen display?

Yes, there have been a lot of firmware updates for the EM1. You will need to download and install Olympus Workspace to your computer. Then the updates are accessed via a menu option. The software will tell you if a firmware update is required for your new lens.

OM-D E-M1 | Olympus

(The manual is 257 pages long and weighs 13 ozs,

I'm sure that you can find a pdf version on line.

After a few years, digital cameras are rarely worth the cost of repair.

That's no reason for me to sell my Olympus gear right NOW. If anything, it's a reason for me to buy a backup camera.

Probably quite a few Oly folks jumping ship soon.

No need to dump my Olympus gear. It will always be as good as it is today. The problem will be when it needs to be repaired.

I just saw this Olympus announcement:

 

 

https://www.olympus-global.com/ir/data/announcement/2020/contents/ir00013.pdf

Thank you for the link.

. . . a lightweight beauty that fits your hand like memory foam and always delivers.

That's how I feel about my EM1 MarkII. Buttons on the new MarkIII just don't work as smoothly.

I assume he's referring to the variable maximum aperture of most kit lenses--f/3.5 at the wide angle setting (28 mm) to f/5.6 at the telephoto setting (55 mm). This won't be that confusing to someone who has set the camera to P (for Program or "Professional", as my students refer to it), but it could be if the camera is set to aperture preferred and the maximum aperture changes with the focal length.

Thanks

. . .

Personally, I don't think that beginners should be using lenses with sliding apertures, as that tends to add another distraction to the learning process. However, they are cheap to make, which is why kit lenses are like that.

. . .

What is a sliding aperture?

I have two EM1.2. One has the 300mm mounted and stays on the kitchen table for shooting birds.

The second body has various lenses mounted including the 12-100mm.

I haven't performed a careful comparison but my impression is that the 300mm uses more power than the other lenses.

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