chip_chipowski

<p>Plamena, we need more information to give you a helpful answer. First, which Nikkor version are you talking about? There is a cheap G version, a more expensive ED version, and then a VR version. The latter is a great performer for the money. As for the Sigma 135-400, I have no experience. It goes to 400mm which is nice, but the quality may not be top notch. Figure out how long a lens you need as the first step. For birds, you might want to consider the new 200-500 if your budget is large enough.</p>

<p>Sorry to be a grump, but I agree with those who say this accident was not specific to the D750 or even Nikon in general. A good reminder to be careful with bracketing though :) </p>

<p>I think both Eric and David make good points about UWA. I really like ultra wide and fisheye, but IMO they are more demanding on technique and composition. In terms of the composition, you just tend to have more elements to deal with in a very wide shot. So it can be harder to make all those elements work together. In terms of technique, you will often want to get very close to your subject. Small changes in perspective have a huge impact on the results. Personally, I have mixed results in UWA. Sometimes, the image is compelling in the viewfinder but the resulting photo is lacking. Tarun, it sounds like you have a good attitude about learning. </p>

<p>Whoa, that fringing is pretty wild! I recall someone posted another 85mm 1.8D fringing example (train tracks) that was really bad.</p>

<p>Jason, on your first example, I think the focus is off. It looks like the focal plane is in the sideburns/temple area. </p>

<p>Tarun, there is no perfect way to shoot DX and have a smooth transition to FX. I went D50>D200>D300>D700. I am not a working professional, so my requirements are somewhat flexible. I still have the D300 and several DX lenses. In my case, I already had the 70-300VR, the 180AF, and a bunch of MF Nikkors. When I bought the D700, I got the 50mm 1.4G and the 85mm 1.8G. I did not try to immediately replace all my DX lenses with FX. Some DX lenses will go, some will stay. I have the 10.5mm and I have no plans to dump it. I have the Tokina 12-24, which I want to eventually sell to get something like the 18-35G. If suddenly I had unlimited funds, yes I would probably go to a full FX kit. But for now, I can use the D700 for some things and D300 for others. It is also nice to use both cameras sometimes (perhaps the tele mounted on D300 and a wide or normal on the D700). </p> <p>In your case, you listed a bunch of DX zooms along with some FX primes. The DX zooms will make the FX transition more difficult if you want to replace them with FX equivalents. If you are a zoom shooter, I can't think of a great way to future proof your current set-up. Primes would be a little easier I think. You can get lots of FX primes that have useful DX/FX application. The new 24 1.8G can be your wide on FX and 35mm equivalent on DX. Same for the 35mm 1.8G and so on. In short, try to find FX lenses that can be useful to you on both formats. </p> <p>My best advice is to think about whether you can make the transition gradually. So if you have a bunch of nice DX zooms, maybe you do FX upgrade but only get low light primes to start. You use your DX camera with zooms and FX with primes. Gradually, you can save up to transition to the FX zooms. </p>

<p>Jason, since you said you like the 85mm focal length then I concur with the above 85mm 1.8G suggestion(s). It sounds like your 85mm 1.8D is not a good copy if the sharpness is that poor. I have used the 85mm 1.8G for a few weeks now and I really like it. </p><div></div>

<p>I just want to point out FX does not necessarily require a huge investment in lenses. If someone has a complete set of DX lenses, yes it will be expensive to replace them. However, someone wanting to get into FX on a reasonable budget has plenty of moderate options to choose from. The 50mm 1.8g is really about the same price as the DX 35. The Nikkor 18-35g is actually cheaper than the DX ultrawides. Further, you can use a huge catalog of MF Nikkors if MF is acceptable (I know you can use them on DX, but FOV is not per original design). </p>

<p>I read somewhere the 18-50DL has a perspective control feature. I assume this is some image correction software but it would be interesting to see some examples of the feature at work.</p>

<p>Hospital windows </p><div></div>

<p>Some sample images here: http://www.thepassionatephotographer.com/first-look-the-new-nikon-compact-dl-24-85-f1-8-2-8-and-dl18-50-f1-8-2-8-cameras-are-here/</p>

<p>Touching on Michael's comment re controls. I have a Coolpix A, which is not at all DSLR like in layout. However, the controls are at least similar to Nikon DSLR and it is not difficult for me to switch back and forth. The Coolpix A differs from these models (at least the 18-50) in the button layout: Coolpix A has left sided buttons so you can use two handed operation to manipulate controls. On the DL 18-50, there are no buttons on the left side of the screen, so it looks like you have to do everything with your right hand. That looks like a potential challenge. </p>

<p>Craig, please let us know what camera you are talking about.</p>

Kyle, I wish you luck in your search for the perfect camera :)

<p>Downtown Portland, OR</p><div></div>

<p>Those look like very challenging conditions. The haze and the distance seem like the dominant factors in your photo.</p>

<p>Kent, can you elaborate on what markings you are referring to?</p>

<p>I'm glad OP asked this question, because I would like someone to clarify whether Nikon will repair grey market gear. As I understand: there is no warranty for grey market. However, I have heard some people say Nikon USA will not even repair grey market products under any circumstance. Anybody know?</p>

<p>Green grass in CA.</p><div></div>

<p>Matthew, I have used several D200 bodies and they have all worked flawlessly. I still have one converted to IR and continue to use it. It is an older camera, but not like it is going to just go 'poof' as if the internals are rusted out by father time. With the amount of cheap used D200s on the market, you should have no problem finding one with minimal use. <br> As for lenses, if you like manual focus you could get the Series E 75-150 f/3.5. It is a nice range for portraits and very easy to use on the D200. </p>

<p>Matthew, can you share any of your 17-35 shots so we know more about what you are trying to achieve?</p>

<p>Brian, sounds like the team needs you and your 70-200 on the ice to tend goal!</p>

<p>There is a new firmware upgrade for D5300 <a href="http://downloadcenter.nikonimglib.com/en/download/fw/175.html">just released</a>. I think it covers compatibility with AF-P lenses and if you enter the right button combination it also unlocks Ironman mode.</p>

<p>James - you only mention camera settings. Have you tried adjusting flash exposure on the SB-700 unit. I don't have one anymore, but I think you adjust remote SB-700 settings via the SB-700. Search for CLS threads on this photo.net Nikon forum, and you will find some great information.</p>

<p>Tim, did you look at the links I posted?</p>