chip_chipowski

<p>Paul, that's an excellent idea! Worth a try.</p> <p>And I will keep Vermont Camera in mind if battery doesn't do it, I appreciate the recommendation.</p>

<p>Hey folks, I have a Nikon FE I have been casually using for the past year or two. I have run several rolls of film through, with good results. However, I recently noticed a problem that seems to be occurring more frequently. While in the auto exposure mode, the camera sometimes will go into a "bulb-like" setting. In other words, the shutter will open and then I have to turn the camera off to close the shutter. I have never used the true bulb mode on the FE so I don't know if the camera is in bulb or just recording a very long exposure. The problem generally occurs when I am not paying attention to the needle on the left of the finder (which correctly hovers near in the slow shutter speed territory when this phenomenon takes place). </p> <p>I think it is a camera issue, as it has occurred with different lenses. The problem usually occurs when I am shooting a lens wide open. </p> <p>I am wondering if anyone can attempt to diagnose my problem? I like the FE a lot, so I would consider getting a CLA if I can get it done for less than $150. I'm aware this is more than the market rate for a replacement FE (but how do I know whether the replacement is as good as a CLA'd body?). Any insight will be much appreciated.</p>

<p>Pontus - I heard the 10-22 is good for Canon, but there is also a new budget minded 10-18 for much cheaper. Probably should look at those two. And obviously the Tokina, etc. are available in Canon mount.</p>

<blockquote> <p>Okay I've read all your responses or opinions on the above question and I thank you so much. So it's my turn now...</p> </blockquote> <p>+1 to John Miller for a thoughtful discussion. Very interesting to read your comments about gear preferences. So many of your choices run counter to "prevailing wisdom" but you clearly know how to use these tools skillfully. </p>

<p>Thanks everybody - I think you guys nailed it with the AF mode. I'm not 100% certain I was in AF-C at the time. But I just did a quick check on my camera and toggling b/w AF-S and AF-C determines whether the AF-assist comes on (ie AF-S = lamp, AF-C = no lamp). </p> <p>I appreciate the help!</p>

<p>I recently experienced a problem with the AF-assist lamp on my D300. My set-up was: D300 w/ Sigma 30mm, SB-800 connected via hot shoe cord (SC-28 3rd-party equivalent) set as CLS master, SB-700 set to remote. </p> <p>As the available light disappeared, I realized the AF-assist lamp was not kicking on. I checked the menu on the camera and each flash, to make sure AF-assist was not turned off. In fact, all devices showed the AF-assist light was on.</p> <p>I have looked through the manuals, but I find no clue as to what the issue could have been. I am not experienced using CLS or off-camera flash, so I am wondering if it is some kind of quirk in my set up. Is CLS a red herring? I don't think the Sigma lens should be a factor, I've never had a problem with this lens and the AF-assist lamp. Any insight would be greatly appreciated.</p>

<p>Peter, if you review my post you will see I have the Sigma 30mm f/1.4 so the Nikkor 35mm is not something I am considering. Yes, I have thought about the 50mm 1.8G. However, my intention is to get the 85mm 1.8G at some point, which will complement my 30mm.</p> <p>Regarding your DOF comment, I plan to use the 40mm micro at close range which should provide more than ample capability for shallow field.</p>

<p>Btw Shun, I like your shot. I understand the comments about perspective distortion, but I like the intimate feeling produced at close range. Totally subjective.</p>

<p>Thanks folks, for the responses. While I appreciate the comments re the short-ish focal length, it is in fact my preference for photographing babies and small children. </p> <p>I hope to hear from anyone who has used the 40mm for portraiture in the manner I described. Although given the responses so far, such users may be uncommon. </p>

<p>Hi everybody,</p> <p>I am looking for user experience with the Micro-Nikkor 40mm DX lens. I'm thinking about adding this lens, after reading some positive reviews. I would use this with a D300, primarily for shooting portraits of children/newborns. This would be a specialty lens, primarily for that purpose, as I have a number of lenses near to that focal length:</p> <p>Sigma 30mm f/1.4 (original version) - love this lens, but it doesn't allow me to get very close to the subject</p> <p>Tamron 17-50mm f/2.8 (focus motor, non-VC) - MFD is shorter than the Sigma, but my impression is the lens is not at its best up close</p> <p>Nikkor 55mm f/3.5 - love this lens, absolutely no complaints about sharpness. OOF rendering is pleasant too. </p> <p>The 40mm offers me AF (nice to have the option), slightly larger aperture. I believe it may also work a little more smoothly with my D300. In my experience, the 55mm needs more post processing to get the right color and white balance. </p> <p>I understand the 40mm has limitations with working distance @ 1:1, but this is not of great concern to me because I would normally be shooting at lower magnification. </p> <p>Can anyone comment on strengths and weaknesses of the 40mm for shooting people? I expect some people prefer longer focal length for portrait, but I like being about to get close to the subject (especially with kids). </p>

<blockquote> <p>I do NOT want a 7100.</p> </blockquote> <p>Haha, some responders just can't help themselves! I guess that's not surprising on this forum.</p> <p>Rick, I recently got a D300 to supplement a D200 I had used for about 3 years. I appreciate the image quality improvement, most notable at higher ISO. I also think the battery life and LCD screen are nicely improved from D200 to D300. </p>

<p>Thanks Wouter - very helpful. I figure I will still have the SB-800 if I ever need/want flash on a non-iTTL body. </p>

<p>I currently have an SB-800 and SB-600 (and SB-28). I would like to sell the SB-600 in order to upgrade to SB-700. I am a flash novice, but I intend to start using them more for portrait and event work. Probably not a lot of multi-flash use, but some. I want to upgrade to SB-700 for a better UI.</p> <p>Since SB-700 is a generation newer than the 600/800 units so I am wondering if I am losing anything significant by moving from SB-600 to SB-700. Compatibility with film and raw power are not priorities. Thanks for any help! </p>

<p>Dieter, thanks for that Nikon link!</p>

<p>Rick, you are probably right. I think I should just admit I don't want to get rid of either of them. </p> <p>Thanks for all the responses. I'll post some follow-up if I find any interesting differences.</p>

<p>I did a couple of quick shots on my D300 at min focus distance, with backlit foliage OOF. The trees were roughly 75 feet away. Just looking at the camera LCD, the f/2 bokeh was significantly different (fewer, larger blur circles). This may be a function of closer min focus on the f/2 version? </p> <p>Andrew - I know what you are saying about the similar formulas, but I am splitting hairs b/w these two lenses (as noted in my post). Good idea about looking through Flickr galleries, I'll take a look over there.</p>

<p>I'm interested to hear user experience with the Nikkor 50mm f/2 Ai. I recently acquired a copy, but I already have the 50mm f/1.8 Ai-S pancake. I see that Bjorn Rorslett had a good review of the f/2 version. </p> <p>I need to get rid of one of these manual focus 50mm lenses, so I'd like to split hairs here. I like the small size of the pancake. OTOH the f/2 version focusses down to 1.5' versus 2' for the pancake. I don't consider the aperture difference terribly relevant to my decision. </p> <p>I can compare these lenses on my D300, but it will mostly be used with an FM2 and FE, so I am especially interested to here from film users. This lens will mostly be used for snapshots, so a pleasing character of the lens is more important to me than maximum sharpness/corners/vignette/etc.</p> <p>Thanks for any input.</p>