andrea_ingram2

<p>The film will be ok. Try it and see for yourself</p>

<p>Or you could try Rodinal 1:100 for 1 hr 45 min . Works really well for HP5.</p>

<p>Or you could try rodinal 1:100 for 1;45 hours stand.</p>

<p>try <a href="http://www.digitaltruth.com/">http://www.digitaltruth.com/</a></p>

<p><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3439/3758209600_0946386427.jpg" alt="" width="500" height="398" /><br>

I use any paper at all. Pre-flash under a enlarger @ 00 grade then shoot at asa 5. then develop in very dilute and cold developer till you just get some blacks. You can dip it into water to halt the development or rub more developer into areas that need it. Then contact print the thing onto more paper.</p>

 

<p>This is my fav rangefinder. Wonderful - apart from the fragile shutter. Mine died. Twice!</p>

<p>I rather overdeveloped some foma400 in Rodinal 1:25. Since I was using a meterless Kiev rf [with issues] my exposures were a little'different' betwen frames. Some were ok and some, when scanned looked like IR images. Why is this please?</p><div></div>

<p>Try print developer @ 1:10 for 2min 30 secs. You may need bleach / fix but ordinary fix will work.</p>

<p>You can always use Caffenol LC - works well with Adox20</p>

<p>Try pre-flashing the paper - makes a bit difference with the contrast. Develop in very dilute developer and then you can easlily control the neg - much easier than neg film. Develop for low contrast then when you contact print, the highlights wont be blow out.</p>

<p> </p><div></div>

<p>I agree that papers and exposures can change the colour of the final result. It sounds like the greenish-blue colour comes from an un-developed/washed under-exposed print. Possibly.</p>

<p>As for the bleach, I find the best bleach-back chemical is very dilute washing-soda.<br>

try asking here http://www.f295.org/Pinholeforum/forum/Blah.pl?b-cyanotype/</p>

<p>you could try shooting paper - easliy obtainable/cut, easily processed, cheap and great results if handled correctly</p><div></div>

<p>Caffenol LC+C works great with this film. I have used it and it works well.<br>

http://www.digitaltruth.com/data/caffenol.php<br>

http://silent1.home.netcom.com/Photography/Dilutions%20and%20Times.html</p>

<p>Era film in 35mm is really excellent.</p>

<p>These films may be the same brand but are made by different comapanies. The film with the blue base is Fomapan film - great stuff - and always looks like that after fixing.</p>

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<p>A Franka Rolfix. Now you are talking ! A fine camera and a fine image</p>

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Pan 400 is great in Rodinal @ 1-100

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I use the 3170 with Vuescan which helps a lot. Having said that, the 35mm negs are still not brilliant.

Paper neg. Magnifying glass lens. Contact printed onto Agfa FB, sepia

toned<div></div>

Well, if this is the result, I am very impressed

Actually George, Kiev lens are really good. If only their bodies were better I would use them exclusively. BTW; I also have a Hassie and KOWA 6mm plus various folders - which also have fine lens