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tom_bowling1664874721

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Posts posted by tom_bowling1664874721

  1. 1/3 stop should be within the film's latitude, even slide film. Is a 408 a spotmeter? I think so - I have the 508. If so, move it around the scene and take a series of readings. All sorts of things in your scene would probably be higher and lower than the simple reading you're taking. Read a few of them, note them down. Then you have to start making choices. Might be worth reading St Ansel Adams on light readings though lots of people are just as good without ever mentioning the dreaded zone system, which seems to have the status of a religion among American photographers.
  2. I'm pleased you take it as a compliment. It's so easy to unintentionally insult people writing notes like this, unintentionally complimenting them makes a nice change. I am acutely aware of the effect height above sea level has on your horizon because I sail a little boat and as you probably know calculating the anngle to an object of known height is one of the ways of calulating how far from it you are. I've never done it in earnest, I just know how to do it! Back on subject, I took a photo recently in clear conditions from the top of Queribus in the foothills of the Pyrenees and you can just make out Perpignan and the Med... say 70 miles max from a mountain 1500 metres (I'm guessing) high. The point is I know that theoretically I should be able to see much further, but I couldn't even in ideal, dry, clear and windy winter weather. In fact the person who was with me wouldn't believe I could see the Med at all! But it's on the photo. When I finally get a scanner later this week I'll post it. I don't see why you shouldn't see Snowdon from the Malverns at all. Yours

    fellow dreamer

  3. Thank you one and all for the replies. I like the kludgy solution with the digital camera. Just the sort of thing I would do. Only trouble is, unless I'm willing to buy a rather expensive digital camera to do the kludging with, I'm going to end up with rather rough looking 'scans' Or am I? I bought the BJP and read the article in there. The Epson 2450 certainly looks like a solution. More kit! What a pity Dixons, PCC World etc etc don't have any exemplars! I thought there was a recession. I also see what you mean abt Photoshop. And I thought Microsoft's prices were mean.

    Is there anywhere reliable in the Essex London area where I might simply get the photos scanned for me? Or do people just trot along to any old lab for that kind of work? Even if they're relatively expensive, st least some scans would give me something to start tinkering with and find out if I like the process.

     

     

     

    Thanks again.

  4. Hi,

    I want to ask for some tyro advice for digital photography. I've got

    some slides in 6x6 which I'd like to have scanned and then I'd like

    to manipulate them on my PC (probably with Photoshop, but I haven't

    bought software yet). Bearing in mind I'm in England, where's a good

    place to get this done? There's loads of advice for (esp West Coast)

    Americans who want to do this, but could someone suggest a good

    quality solution in England? I know this is a dumb question and beg

    indulgence from all you experts who are reading this and

    thinking 'what?'

    John in Essex

  5. Thanks for the replies, one and all. I went for the Mamiya C330f, bought from a dealer in excellent unmarked condition. I also bought the 135 and the 55 lens. 80 is covered by my Rollei. I take the point about the close focussing on the Mamiya and frankly the whole kit was quite a bit less than 50 per cent of the cost of a tele-rollei.

    One point, I bought the hood for the 55 lens. The top half of it folds up by a little more than 180 deg. I wonder why?

    John

  6. It's all in the message title. I have a Rolleiflex T and want

    something specialised for portraits. So what's the advice of members?

    A Mamiya C330 + appropriate lens or a telerollei? I'd appreciate

    opinion from those who've used both but either will do (and please

    don't hang back on the prejudice!)

    John

  7. I've just taken delivery of one too, Mark. Like yours, mine seems to have spent 30 years sitting on one of Her Britannic Majesty's Shelves. The f stop ring and the shutter speed ring are linked, but not, as you suspected, permanently. If you lift the button that controls the rings and then move it the f stop ring and shutter speed ring will move relative to each other. Hey presto, any speed from 1/500 5 to timed.

    I bought, by the way, the Ian Parker Complete Rollei TLR User's Manual by Ian Parker. It's widely available, but I suggest you consult it in your library. No wonder Jessop's keep it shrinkwrapped. As a badly written book it is almost in a class of its own, but somewhere among the anoraky-ness and brown nosing to Rollei is much of the information you need.

    Now if, in return, you could describe to me how I'm supposed to get the damn thing mounted on a modern tripod, I'll be in your debt.

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