mightypir

<p>Have you tried a HB-29? It is a petal type (for the VR1) but it is deeper and bigger than what comes with the VR2 as standard. And its a bayonet fit not screwed into the filter thread.</p>

Shun in your back up workflow don't you delete the shots that are clearly bad (out of focus etc)? If you have a laptop sorting shouldn't be an issue and you would save some space (considerably, when shooting at high frame rates).

I recently got an ASUS ZenBook UX305LA. It's super fast and with an i5 processor and 8GB RAM and a SSD it can pretty much handle anything. It's super thin and very very portable, and basically a window version of a MacBook air. Just need to calibrate the screen before you use it. There is a newer model with the skylake hardware that is even better. Check Amazon it should be in your price range..

Thank you all for your responses. My main concern was that there was some issue with the camera but that does not seem to be the issue. Some good suggestions re workflow!

<p>Hello. This is a problem I had similar to the one that Shun talked about here: http://www.photo.net/nikon-camera-forum/00akyq I was wondering if there was any update on the reason why it happened. </p> <p>Three of my images from a brand new San Disk SD Extreme Pro 32GB card (a total of 916 12bit compressed nefs) had the same problem. I was importing them into my Win 7 PC via Bridge (CS6). When I opened Bridge to do the sorting I noticed the issue. Luckily they were not important pics, but nonetheless it was a worrying incident. This morning I went through the import process several times, in Bridge and using the regular file transfer facility in windows. I also used a second card reader and alternative USB port. </p> <p>The result is that I don't have any more corrupt pics!!! So clearly, my original fear that there was a problem with the camera or the card was unfounded. I have also decided to only transfer using the copy paste method rather than Bridge in the future. </p> <p>So has anyone else had a similar problem? The D7200 has now got near 10,000 shots on it. I never had any such issues with my older D300. </p>

<p>@joris: adding the grip improves the handling considerably. But it is still not as a good as the D300 with its grip. I think that this (size and handling) has been the biggest let down for me in moving. The shutter is also quieter than that of the D300.</p> <p>I have used my 7200 along with a 70-200 VR1 (and battery grip) to shoot stage (kids school stuff). Have had excellent results all the way up to ISO 3200. With the D300 I used to try never to go over ISO 800...1600 only in a pinch, but here I have gone to 6400 with very little loss of quality. I've remapped the video button to ISO to make life a bit easier and this worked out well.</p> <p>No issues with frame rates even when shooting RAW with a fast 90 MB/s SD card at 6fps bursts. Oh and the WiFi is incredibly useful!</p>

<p>I went through a similar decision making process. You need to be clear about what your photographic needs are. If you need reach, then a D7200 is the only real choice. The body will be the cheapest possible upgrade to your D300 and you will have money left over to buy accessories. Don't fret too much about the SD cards, memory is getting cheaper and faster every day...I use a 32GB card which cost the same as the 4GB card I used to use in my D300. </p> <p>Don't worry too much about the consumer body type, you will adapt to the controls. There will be times when you miss the D300 controls but difference in image quality will more than make up for it, IMO. I found that adding a battery pack made a world of a difference in handling. </p> <p>If you are inclined towards FX, then logically the D750 is your best choice but will be costly not just for the body but for also new lenses. I wouldn't go for a D800e unless you really need the extra mpx. </p> <p>All of these three cameras have considerably greater resolution that the D300 and require a bit more care with regard to handling. </p>

<p>Your D300 is working fine, this is normal for the camera. The problem with the later bodies is that the auto ISO boosts the iso level which can lead to some inconsistent results. People either like that or they don't. I prefer the D300 version myself, but that's me. </p> <p>I've found that its better to leave my D7200 in manual ISO when I use flash. </p> <p> </p>