bob_estremera

<p>I'm about to pull the trigger on a Cheetahstand Q24 that I'll be using with a Lumopro LP160 and shooting portraits. Some environmental, some torso and headshots. the LP160 presumably has similar output to a Canon 580EX.<br /> I'm shooting with a Canon 60D now but want to get a Sigma Foveon rig shortly that are really limited to shooting at ISO 100-200 before the noise gets objectionable. <br /> Will the output from the Q24 allow me to shoot at ISO 100-200?<br> I have to hand-carry everything with me and need to keep the lighting setup simple, small and light so I don't want to consider bringing a monolight.<br /> Thanks, Bob</p>

<p>Thanks everybody,<br> <br />Now it's time for me to just experiment with all this great input.<br />I know I'm going to nail it.<br />Thanks again.<br> And Tom, I DO love that portrait. The tone is beautiful.<br> Bob</p>

Lex-yes, that's it exactly. I'll experiment with your suggestions. But what do you mean by reversed flash? Never heard that one before. Thanks.

<p>It seems something like this Photoflex might give me what I'm looking for. They even sell a grid for it.<br />This would let me keep the lighsource focused and confined to a narrow band. <br> https://www.photoflex.com/products/halfdome-small</p>

I had thought that the Softlighter is more like a softbox that controls and contains the light better than an umbrella. Especially with feathering.

<p>Hope I can get some guidance here.<br /><br />I've used my Softlighter with a Canon 60D that has a max sync speed of 1/250th. Lightsource will be a 300WS monolight.<br />The project I'm working will be shooting hospital patients in their bed or patients that might be able to sit in a chair or on a sofa.<br />I've used the Softlighter many times when it really didn't matter if light fell on the background.<br />But what I want to achieve is for my subject to be lit, probably with a feathered light but be able to control and darken the ambient room light exposure to end up with a kind of impressionistic final image with a dark background and a well lit subject.<br />I've seen this done with examples when people shoot outdoors when they make an exposure for the background and render it a stop or more underexposed while the flash exposure is made for the subject. <br />Any suggestions on how to approach this shoot from a technical perspective?<br />If the sync speed is not fast enough, would a ND filter help the effort?<br> My problem solving skills are a little undeveloped so any help is appreciated.<br> Thanks.</p>

<p>Sounds like you've got the glass covered Edward. But your dilemma over which Sony to get is interesting. Maybe you split the baby and get the A7 and get a little of each world. It's a good value too with all the glass you've got.</p>

Edward, I have read with interest about the great and reasonably priced M mount lenses that can be adapted and focused manually in monochrome mode with focus peaking in various colors.

<p>You know Louis, you may have something there. I have handled the 28-70 kit lens on the A7 and I agree that feels well-balanced. But when I see the primes attached to the body, they look unusually large. But since the camera is more compact, I was expecting the lenses to be sized down accordingly. But since I can visit B&H almost anytime, I guess I need to go look at them myself rather than make assumptions from looking at photos.<br />I''ll make a trip to B&H so I can handle the A7 with the 35 and 55 and see for myself.</p>

Sorry, I might not have been clear. I was referencing Canon EF lenses that are designed for full frame. The basic EF auto focus prime lenses are much smaller than the corresponding Sony FE lenses. I just want to know why that is.

<p>Maybe it's my ignorance but my frame of reference are Canon EF AF f1.8 or f2 primes, from 28mm through 85mm.The Sony lenses that have come out already and the new ones just announced seem really large compared to the EF's. I think the same is true for Nikon lenses.<br> What is it about the FE's that make them so large? I could see if they were all 1.2's but they're not.<br> I'm looking at the Sony FF as a potential future system but the size and weight of these lenses seem to actually offset the smaller A7 camera body (that I love).<br> <br />Thanks, Bob</p>

Thanks Eric. I'm definitely going to spring for the Xa1 now and see what's out there by the time I wear it out.

<p>Fuji's got a great mix alright. I just seem to be attracted to the regular Bayer sensor and interested to see if it's going to continue to be an option for the future.</p>

<p>Been looking into the Fuji cameras pretty extensively to the point of pixel-peeping the daylights out of them.<br />I have found it interesting to note that the RAW files from the XA1 Bayer sensor are very comparable to the X trans files. In fact, at higher ISO's, the XA1 files are slightly noisier, but have more actual detail. I'll take that trade since I do almost exclusively b&w.<br> Do any of you think or know if there is a future for the XA1 Bayer sensor or the XA1 camera?<br> I think I would actually like to see a full-blown Fuji version of the XE2, or similar, with the Bayer sensor.<br> Thanks</p>

<p>I have been researching this topic and have found several forums that describe the 'smearing' you talk about due to wide angle lenses just not working well with adapters and wide angle, even moderately wide angle, M mount lenses. Apparently, once the focal length gets up around 35-50, the issues seem to go away. Might not anything to do with the lens or the adapter, just compatibility. Just Google around and you'll find lots of references.</p>

Thanks for the help. Bob

<p>Getting ready to transition from Canon to Fuji. Not yet, but soon.<br />I've been reading about all the firmware updates and I'm a bit confused.<br />I've downloaded instructions for firmware updates for the body but a bit confuse about lenses.<br />I'm going to start with the XA1 and 16-50. I also use LR for my post processing.<br />How can I check to see which firmware is on the camera body I buy?<br />How can I check to see which firmware is on the lens that comes with the camera and if I need to update it?<br />When I add lenses, as long as my body is on the latest firmware, will I only need to confirm the current version of firmware of the lens, then update if needed?<br> Thanks, Bob</p>

<p>Thanks Everybody, I really like the tip about the stepping on the looped rope. Looks like I won't be worrying about any problems. And I also use Photomatix exposure fusion (NOT HDR) so I end up taking multiple long exposures for a single shot at night. Sounds like the Manfrotto is a good choice but I also will look for a used Gitzo for similar money.<br> Thanks everybody. Bob</p>

<p>I shoot cityscapes or architecture and architectural details and night photography, often with exposures up to 30 seconds or so and often with a long telephoto.<br />I currently use a heavy Manfrotto steel tripod. It's rock solid but oh so heavy.<br />I'm considering the Manfrotto carbon fiber fiber 055CXPro (or similar), aroung $303 US. In the store, it has a solid feel and thick legs. But I take comfort in the weight of my current tripod knowing that it contributes to the solidity of the overall setup.<br /> I'm new to carbon fiber and just want to confirm that their lightness doesn't compromise stability for long exposures.<br /> Thoughts and recommendations please, <br /> Bob</p>

<p>Adobe just doubled the price of my Photoshop and LR5 Cloud subscription. I want to cancel the subscription before the new price goes into effect. I will replace PS with Elements because I mostly use PS for the clone and healing tools now that LR has gotten so powerful and full-featured. <br /> But there might be a dilemma.<br /> I have a bunch of backed up LR5 Catalogs that I've been creating while using LR5 Cloud version. I also have a regular old 'paid' version of LR4 that I'd been using and I also have an upgrade DVD to LR5 that I have NOT YET installed (because I've been using the cloud version). <br /> Here's the question: If I install the LR5 upgrade disk as if I never had the cloud version, will there be some kind of a conflict because LR5 is already loaded on my computer? Or, should I uninstall my current LR5 Cloud completely and THEN install the upgrade DVD?<br /> If this is successful, will the regular non-subscription version of LR5 (the upgraded one) read the current LR5 catalogs?<br /> <br /> And, is there a chance that if I do uninstall the Cloud LR5 and use the non-subscription version, that the Adobe pinger, or whatever it is, will detect the non-subscription LR5 and somehow make it inoperable like they would if I just stopped paying on a LR5 subscription?<br /> <br /> Thanks for the help. Bob</p>