bob_estremera

<p>Joshen and Rodeo, can you post a link to the exact type of tool I would use for the 'tapping' into the plate or solid rod end? Your description of "One hole drilled, one tapping" leaves me with the question, is the process to first drill a 1/4" inch hole and then to 'tap' the 1/4" thread into the drilled hole? And does the designation 1/4-20 include the 'pitch' needed? </p>

That looks pretty good Peter. Funny, I Googled like crazy and never found this. Thanks again. Bob

<p>Here you go with the photo. Jochen, I'm really looking for simplicity. I know something is out there. Just don't know what it is. Here's a link to one just like what I have: http://www.ebay.com/p/?iid=272136657370&ul_noapp=true,true&chn=ps&lpid=82,82</p> <p> </p>

<p>This seems like such a stupid question but I'm stumped.<br />I'm trying to make the simplest, most secure connection between the top of my tripod (1/4"-20) male, and the bottom of my ball head clamp, also a (1/4"-20) male. I can't seem to find the obvious 1/4"-20 to 1/4"-20 female to female spigot because they are all 1/4" to 3/8".<br> If there is no item like I describe, what bits of simple hardware bits will do the job?<br />I've cobbled together an umbrella clamp in between the tripod and ball head clamp now but that is more complicated and Rube Goldberg than I would like.<br />Suggestions?<br> Thanks</p>

<p>Robin,<br> Points taken. I really like shooting with my 35 f2 but the large amount of distortion is visible even in the viewfinder. It's kind of distracting when you're shooting street scenes where architectural elements are a dominant part of the scene. I'm not used to shooting lenses with 'auto-correction' and I can't say I like how it looks and the extra post-processing steps. I use Photo Ninja for images I really want to work with because the default setting produce a better file with more detail, especially in the highlights than Lightroom. So Lightroom auto correction is not a big help. Also, it appears that LR also leaves a little of the barrel distortion on the finished file. New day I guess.</p>

I do understand that the Fuji is weather sealed.

<p>I'm confused about this new lens and how they're made.<br />I had an EOS M (the first one) with the 22mm f2. I LOVED that little combo and it's the reason I gave up that and the rest of my Canon gear to go smaller with a complete system. I entered Fuji with an X-T10 with a couple of lenses, including the 35mm f2.<br />Now that Fuji's 23mm f2 is out people are falling all over themselves. But my question is this, how is it that Canon can put out a 22mm f2 mirrorless pancake lens that is killer sharp, all over the field, for $150 U.S. I understand that that lens works more like the Fuji 27mm 2.8, but even THAT lens is $449 U.S. Is it just the market size of Canon that allows them to build and price their lens at such an enormous discount compared to the Fuji? And, there's almost no distortion on the Ef-M lens. My 35mm f2 has way too much distortion. I'd really rather not have auto-correction working that hard to create an image where parallel lines are straight.<br> Appreciate opinions and information that I clearly don't have.</p>

<p>Yeah, I'm going to be shutting it off between shots now too. I did that on my EOS M so I guess this is just life with mirrorless.<br> Love the camera and files though. Definitely a big improvement over the Canon APS.</p>

<p>Yeah, I also carry 3 for the same reason.</p>

<p>I must have missed the Fuji X group.<br> Will definitely ask the question there.<br> Thanks</p>

<p>I see that flashing icon every time I hit the wireless Fn button or click on the 'Wireless Communication' setting under the #5 menu. If I click the back button it shows a bar that says 'Disconnected'.<br />It just seems odd that it is blinking and apparently searching. There should be way to disable it but I just can't find it.<br> I wish I could upload a photo I took of the screen I'm talking about but I only see a way to add a photo if it has a url, not from my desktop.<br /><br />Thanks for the help.</p>

<p>Sold all my Canon stuff for a nice little X-T10 with a few nice lenses. Was shooting with the 18-55, mostly on a tripod with EVF only. Not much chimping, but some. Only got about 150 shots on the first battery. While reviewing settings I saw the blinking green wireless icon. I don't use the wireless, just tested it once for remote control iPhone app. How can I disable the wireless activity on my camera? Does this signify that the wireless is on and constantly searching for a signal?<br> Also, maybe I'm confusing myself with that flashing green wireless icon. Does it in fact mean that the <a title="Link added by VigLink" href="http://shop.panasonic.com/cameras-and-camcorders/cameras" rel="nofollow">camera</a> is constantly looking for a signal? Geo tagging is off.<br> Another person pointed out that the 350 shots per battery is based on shooting one shot every 30 sec. or approximately 175 minutes. Is that correct? If so, that would be consistent with how long the first battery lasted.<br /> <br /> Thanks</p>

<p>I didn't realize the Fuji presets are in LR. Never looked. Thanks for the tip.</p>

What are your feelings about the Fuji jpgs? People seem to love them but when I compare the RAW to the SOOC jpgs, I can see a lot of missing detail and texture, especially in the shadows. If you really want the richest file, especially for printing, it still looks to me like creating a jpg from the RAW file is still the way to go. Allen, really nice capture there.

<p>Thanks Andy. Nice tip.</p>

<p>Patrick, I've been shooting with the new Fuji for a few days now and yes, the shutter lag is noticeable. For 'decisive moment' shooting, that I don't do very much, I can do what worked great on my EOS M, just find the hyper focal distance for f8, set the manual focus to around 12' and shoot without any lag at all. Fast follow up shots for me just don't happen very much. For most of my urban photography, the lag is a complete non-issue. Same for portraits. I know I'll miss some fleeting expressions occasionally, but I think it's worth it.</p>

<p>Patrick, that's the only reason I shoot. Looking cool is better than being cool : )</p>

Agreed, and I wish I didn't need to add the additional complication to the workflow. But the improvement in file quality is real for the Fuji X files. It's just so frustrating, as others have pointed out, that a guy with a computer (PN) can create a better file output to the most popular mirrorless system than Adobe with all it's resources.

<p>Photo Ninja yields a real difference in fine details and texture. Not, POW, WOW. But, "Oh, this is much better."<br> Also, when you lift shadows in PN, there is much more shadow detail.</p>

<p>I agree with PN first Peter. I was just thinking that I would view the files and sort/move the photos according to my archiving/sorting process in LR, ie: folders for 'street photography', 'portraits', 'night photography', etc. . But I would do all the actual file work in PN first. After the PN work, my plan would be to re-import to LR where I would 'Edit photo in' Silver Efex then save back to LR in the appropriate folder with final TIFF next to the original Fuji RAF file.<br> I've never synchronized folders in LR. What is that process and what does it accomplish?</p>

<p>Need to help with what might be a complicated workflow.<br> Just picked up a Fuji X-T10 with those crazy X trans files. Definitely a big step up from my Canon APS files. High ISO is great. Recoverable shadow detail is fanstastic.<br />I did some testing and found that Photo Ninja did a much better job handling both well-lit and shadow details.<br />I usually do a LR to Silver Efex Pro workflow that is very efficient. But now I'm going to need a LR>PN>SEP workflow.<br />I would like to avoid working in PN first, then importing every TIFF file to LR then go to SEP. That would be cumbersome.<br /><br />Anybody doing this? What have you found that works?<br /><br /><br> Thanks</p>

Did it! Brought all my Canon gear to B&H. They gave me a really competitive price. They had a great used, mint, black X-T10 with 18-55 and a mint 60mm. I also picked up a brand new 35mm f2.<br /> Oh my God, what have I done?<br /> Just kidding. Really excited to get up to speed and enjoy the new equipment. One thing I noticed when I got the kit home is the Silkypix disk is not in the box. Does anybody know if I can download a free version of the bundled software? Thanks for all your input.

<p>Down the road I considered the 16-55 2/8 but frankly, that's one of the reasons I don't like my 60D. I have the 17-55 2/8 and it's such a horses leg I hate carrying it around despite great image quality. I'm always happy when I look at the images but the taking is not much fun. Maybe the fuji version won't feel so bad and I'll love it. It will give me everything in portraiture from environmental to close in headshots in one lens. That would be nice and I could effortlessly frame from one to the other.<br> How's the bokeh at the long end compared to the 60mm? f stops are pretty much the same so I might guess the bokeh is comparable.</p>

i'm leaning toward the X-T10. The thing is so small, I hope I can use my Cactus trigger on it! It will become my backup camera when the X-T2 with 24mp sensor comes out. Still need to watch the $ so for glass, I'll start with the 35mm f2 and 60mm macro.

Yeah it's looking like I'm going to start selling my Canon stuff and ease on over to Fuji. Eric, you bring up a point - I thought the layout of the X trans was supposed to break up the repeating patterns to produce LESS moire. Am I wrong? Thanks for all the help