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jon_j1

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Posts posted by jon_j1

    2nd self-contained camera set-up: EOS 1D or Rebel XT?

    in Canon EOS Mount

    Posted

    Hi all,<BR><BR>

     

    So, lets get the "hard" stuff out of the way first. I used to shoot Canon film

    gear until working at a camera shop for the summer. After that, I decided I

    would make the switch to Nikon and purchased a (used) F100, 70-200 2.8 VR lens,

    and order a d300.<BR><BR>

     

    In the meantime however, I have no digital and need one more than ever. I was

    fine shooting things with film before, but I'm getting more calls to shoot more

    things now and film isn't cutting it. I need the turn-around time of digital.

    Also, the Olympus 4mp ultra-zoom isn't cutting it anymore either. I recently

    borrow a friends Rebel XT and used my old 50mm 1.8 lens on it for a show. At

    ISO 800, I was impressed with the shots (I shot 1600 - 6400 iso film, so

    noise/grain doesn't bother me all that much) and am considering purchasing a

    Rebel XT (and upgrading to a 50mm 1.4) to use while I wait for the d300 and as a

    second body afterwards.<BR><BR>

     

    HOWEVER, I'm also looking at the older EOS 1D as well. I guess what I need help

    with here is with comparing the high iso performance of both (800-1600) and

    thoughts opinions on these options?<BR><BR>

     

    Also, before anybody suggests I stick with Nikon, I am exploring options there,

    but my real-world experience with the Rebel XT blurs that. Although, with the

    XT, one thing I will say that annoyed me was the viewfinder.<BR><BR>

     

    <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/jonjanes/1384240610/" title="Photo

    Sharing"><img

    src="http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1089/1384240610_7b2b6f359f_m.jpg"

    width="240" height="160" alt="Colorful Crowd" /></a><BR><BR>

     

    <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/jonjanes/1487916732/" title="Photo

    Sharing"><img

    src="http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1195/1487916732_7968c8642c_m.jpg"

    width="240" height="160" alt="Stick 'Em Up" /></a><BR><BR>

     

    <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/jonjanes/1499245628/" title="Photo

    Sharing"><img

    src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2295/1499245628_339a347db0_m.jpg"

    width="240" height="160" alt="Also Classical" /></a><BR><BR>

     

    <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/jonjanes/1502227131/" title="Photo

    Sharing"><img

    src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2016/1502227131_85a29a97e7_m.jpg"

    width="240" height="160" alt="Pink" /></a><BR><BR>

     

    The four above photos illustrate the amount of noise I'm pretty much willing to

    put up with, with the 2nd photo being an extreme example only acceptable if the

    moment is worth it and the fourth example being a 1/4 crop of the original Rebel

    XT frame.

    Microdol-X, XTOL, TMax, Rodinal... when to use what?

    in Black & White Practice

    Posted

    Hi all,<br><br>

     

    I've been going through the forums a lot lately trying to figure out what I

    might want to use for pushing some films, but I'm just seeing mixed opinions all

    over the place. So, I thought I'd link to a few examples of what I'm after and

    maybe you can all help me pick the right developer.<br><br>

     

    Up until now, I've used d76 (TMax once, but not right). I get great results

    processing TMax 400 @ 400. Now, however, I'm looking to push my films to their

    limits (and beyond). I'd like to shoot (35mm) TMax 400 @ 1600, TMax p3200 @

    6400 & 12800, and (med format) TMax 400 @ 1600, 3200, & 6400.<br><br>

     

    Now, I have a bag of Microdol-X that's sitting around and I've looked at TMax

    developer, XTOL (seems to be reccomended), and Rodinal. Here are some examples

    of some photos I enjoy:<br><br>

     

    35mm:<br><br>

     

    <a href="http://flickr.com/photos/89936228@N00/391763567/">Tri-X @ 6400

    (Rodinal)</a><br><br>

     

    <a href="http://flickr.com/photos/rydcoco/1489388587/">TMZ @ 6400

    (Rodinal)</a><br><br>

     

    <a

    href="

    @ 12800</a><br><br>

     

    <a href="http://flickr.com/photos/andretakeda/1472897396/">TMZ @ 6400 (My

    fave)</a><br><br>

     

    Med format:<br><br>

     

    <a href=" 400 @ 6400</a><br><br>

     

    So, there you go. Hopefully with those examples, you can get an idea for what

    I'm going for. I'll be scanning with a nikon Coolscan V and if printing, it

    won't be larger than 6x9 (6x6 for med format).

    Nikon 35mm F2D? Or Nikon 50mm F1.4? Or both?

    in Nikon

    Posted

    When it comes to film, the 50mm is the answer, hands-down. If I had to use only one lens on my F100, I'd pick the 50mm. However, on digital, i found it gave a "weird" focal length. It's a tough decision, because the 1.4 is beautiful, but the 35mm focal length is also, well, beautiful. Do what I did and look closely at the 35mm 1.4 Sigma as well.

    Nikon equivalent to Canon Rebel XT

    in Nikon

    Posted

    Raymond - I'll have a look at the d50. There may be one around town I could try.

     

    Scott - That sounds like a great idea. I always thought the d40 was a nice compact camera, but the lack of built-in af has been an issue considering I want Nikon 50mm 1.4 and 20mm 2.8. I already own a 70-200 2.8 VR, which would also work, but as Shun pointed out, I'm looking at this camera to satisfy me now while I'm waiting for my d300.

     

    Sam - Again, I'll look into the d50.

     

    David - I'd be looking at a used d50/d70s is I had to go that route. Otherwise, the d40 sells fairly cheap new (and I do have a connection - I got my 70-200 direct from factory - through work), and it was pointed out that the Sigma 30mm 1.4 has auto-focus, so it's sounding better each time.

     

    Todd - I think you should read Shuns response; he got it.

     

    Shun - If I could have gotten a d200 before leaving my older job, I would have picked it up then, but there was no stock at the time. Ideally, I'm looking for a smaller camera that, even though it may use a different card, could be used for fun as well (I can see my parents borrowing it for a weekend at the cabin with friends, etc). Again, ideally, I'd like to get the D300 and then, within a year, perhaps purchase a D3 to compliment it (after purchasing some lenses, a printer, a new bag, ect - I have a plan, haha).

     

    Adam - The d40x crossed my mind, but if I was going that route, I might as well go d80 (imho). However, a d40 would prob do just what I need it to and, if the viewfinder is better, that's a real plus.

     

    Thanks everybody for your responses. Keep 'em coming!

    Nikon equivalent to Canon Rebel XT

    in Nikon

    Posted

    Hey all,

     

    I was shooting a concert the other night and, since I'm still waiting on my

    D300, I borrowed the only digital camera I could get for free from a friend - a

    Canon Rebel XT. I put my 50mm 1.8 on it (a left-over from my Canon film days)

    and away I went. I also shot TMax 400 (pushed to 1600) with an F100 and

    70-200mm 2.8 VR. Long story short, I noticed certain short-comings with the

    Rebel such as a horrible viewfinder in low-light (at least for me) and erractic

    low-light auto-focus. However, when a picture was captured right, I noticed a

    very pleasent saturation, sharpness (considering I was at 1.8 almost the entire

    time), and picture quality.

     

     

     

     

     

    Long story even shorter, can anybody reccomend a Nikon equivalent to achieve

    pictures such as those? When I do get my D300, I suspect the 70-200mm will stay

    attached 95% of the time. I'd like to keep a 50mm 1.4 on the F100 and perhaps

    have a second dSLR with a 20mm 2.8 attached (or Sigma 30 1.4). So, I'll need it

    to auto-focus, a slightly brighter viewfinder, maybe work a bit better in

    low-light, small, etc. Honestly, I think I'm after something that doesn't exist

    (d40 is so close if only it af'd), but I thought I'd ask. I've contemplated

    older dSLRs as well such as the D1x or D70s *only about 2MP behind - any

    noticable difference I should see?)

     

    For even more reference, before this I used an Olympus C750 ultra-zoom. At 4MP,

    I often found it fine for web and print use at my standard size (6x9), although

    it left slightly less room for cropping.

     

    Below is a sample from the Rebel XT at the show.

     

    <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/jonjanes/1384240610/" title="Photo

    Sharing"><img

    src="http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1089/1384240610_7b2b6f359f.jpg" width="500"

    height="333" alt="Colorful Crowd" /></a>

    Schools Horseman 45FA compared to my (possible) Cambo SCII

    in Large Format

    Posted

    Now, first off, I know one is a view camera (Cambo) and the other a feild

    (Horseman), but lets ignore that for now. I certainly don't mind the extra

    set-up for a view camera (at least at this stage in my life), so that's not the

    point. I guess, the real question I have is:

     

    Since I'm used to using the 45FA from my university, will I notice a huge

    difference by buying my own Cambo SCII? Are there movements on one that won't

    be possible on the other? Is there any other major difference?

    What am I missing from this set-up?

    in Accessories

    Posted

    Edward: I don't actually tilt the head when shooting vertical (I noticed the slippage you mentioned), I simply change the lens' position in the collar. With this set-up, I don't even loose fov, it just changes from horizontal to vertical. However, I am exploring the idea of adding an RRS or Kirk Arca-Swiss style QR to my 410 head. I still do not want a ballhead, but I do want in on the A-S QR system. I think Kirk actually makes a replacement head for the 410 (pointed out to me in another thread), so there are options.

     

    Alan: For my purposes, I didn't see any advantages to a non-geared head. I'd rather take my time and be precise (I'm lucky to actually have the time to be precise). I'm not after speed as much as ability to level the head and move it in exact increments. Also, I do plan on exploring large format photography soon - I'm still looking at which LF camera is for me.

    DR-3 + 70-200mm collar in place of L-bracket

    in Nikon

    Posted

    Hi all,

     

    I have an F100 and a 70-200mm VR lens I'm using on top of a Manfrotto 410

    geared head. This set-up works wonderfully for me and I've noticed an added

    bonus of the tripod collar (having never had a lens with one before) - it

    allows me to quickly change from landscape to portrait view. However, I'm

    still left with the problem of trying to see through the viewfinder. My

    solution was to get a DR-3 so I could stand to the side of the tripod and

    still see into the viewfinder. Is there any reason not o use the tripod

    collar for changing landscape/portrait views? Will the DR-3 not acomplish

    what I'm after?

     

    For reference, I use this set-up for studio portraits and outdoor portraits.

    Adding QR to an existing head

    in Accessories

    Posted

    Hi all,

     

    Although I recently posted about my new tripod/head set-up, I felt this was a

    different enough question to warrent a seperate post.

     

    I have a Manfrotto 410 Junior Geared Head and I simply love it. I have no

    desire for a ballhead - I enjoy the percise movements available from my 410.

    I have a Nikon F100 and 70-200mm VR lens. I'm wondering if it's worth it to

    try and add QR capibilities to my 410, for future use of L brackets or even a

    replacement QR foot for my lens. How would I go about this correctly?

    What am I missing from this set-up?

    in Accessories

    Posted

    Hi all,

     

    I recently purchased my very first tripod (well, I did have the family hand-me-

    down video tripod for a few years and borrowed my university photo departments

    for some time, but this one is all mine!). It is a combo of a second-hand

    Manfrotto 190CLB (came from a photo studio where it's been sitting in the

    corner for quite some time) and a brand-new Manfrotto 410 Junior Geard Head.

    Right now I'm using a Nikon F100 (just waiting for that D300 to come out) and

    a 70-200mm VR lens (also waiting for a 50mm 1.4 and 20mm 2.8). I also have a

    Mamiya C330. So, what I'm generally asking is...

     

    Is there anything else I should be looking at for solid support?

     

    I'm using it (the tripod) for indoor studio work and outdoor portraits. With

    the lens mounted to the plate, I switch from horizontal to vertical views by

    using the tripod collar. What I'm thinking is I'll get a 2nd plate to keep on

    the bottom of the C330 and keep the first plate on the foot of the 70-200mm

    tripod collar (makes a nice foot for table support of the lens as well). I've

    been looking at QR plates by Kirk and RRS, but I'm absolutely positive that a

    ballhead is not for me. I'm extremelt pleased with my 410 and just wondering

    if anybody else has any experience with this particular (or similar) combo.

    Have you moved from Nikon to Canon?

    in Canon EOS Mount

    Posted

    I actually recently decided to switch from Canon to Nikon. I find Nikon lenses to be fantastic and MP isn't everything - resolution means a lot, as does low-light performance, to me. If a 12mp aps-c sensor performs better in low-light than a 21mp full-frame (or any size for that matter), I'd rather go with it. Just my opinion.

    Nikon PB-6 + 85mm PC Macro...?

    in Nikon

    Posted

    Anybody have any thoughts on this combonation? In theory, shouldn't this give

    you maximum range of movement while still providing larger than life-size?

    Would anything else be required/reccomended?

     

    I have a local source for the 85mm PC for approx. $925 US, practically new (I

    know the user), so I'm highly contemplating it.

    TMax p3200 pulled to 1600 OR TMax 400 pushed to 1600?

    in Black & White Practice

    Posted

    I've used the TMax 3200 speed film before, pulled back to 1600, but lately I'm

    noticing a few people on my Flickr site taking some very nice photos with TMax

    400 pushed to 1600. My results with the pulled film were a disappointment, to

    say the least, so I'm wondering what the difference between the two options

    will be? When I'm near a darkroom again in September, i'll be able to

    experiment more myself, but I didn't think it woould hurt to ask now.

    SB-800 x2 + SK-6

    in Lighting Equipment

    Posted

    Hi, I tried posting this in the Nikon forum a while ago, but only got a

    single reply suggesting alternate products, which is *NOT* what I wanted. So,

    if anybody can help with this question, that'd be great. Thanks!

     

    I'm finally switching to digital and I'll be using a d200. On my Canon film

    camera I have a side bracket for my flash. I noticde Nikon has a similar

    product, but it also provides extra battery power. My question is, instead of

    using the included cord to run from the hotshoe to the sk-6 to operate the

    flash, could I mount a second SB-800 on the main hotshoe (possibly attaching

    an SD-8A) as a commander while using the other as a slave on the SK- 6 and

    still recieve the fast recycle time? The idea behind would be to have one

    flash facing forward for fill flash while the other provides some ambient

    light through bounce-flash. I'll be using this set-up for events (gallery

    openings, corporate events) where I'm hired to simply take casual shots

    throughout the night.

    Nikon SK-6 + 2 SB-800s

    in Nikon

    Posted

    Hi all,

     

    Pretty new to the forum and I have a question concerning an upcoming Nikon

    purchase. I'm finally switching to digital and I'll be using a d200. On my

    Canon film camera I have a side bracket for my flash. I noticde Nikon has a

    similar product, but it also provides extra battery power. My question is,

    instead of using the included cord to run from the hotshoe to the sk-6 to

    operate the flash, could I mount a second SB-800 on the main hotshoe (possibly

    attaching an SD-8A) as a commander while using the other as a slave on the SK-

    6 and still recieve the fast recycle time? The idea behind would be to have

    one flash facing forward for fill flash while the other provides some ambient

    light through bounce-flash. I'll be using this set-up for events (gallery

    openings, corporate events) where I'm hired to simply take casual shots

    throughout the night.

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