hinman

<p>Love it when the cheapest gear delivers. Please be open to LBA as a prime will certainly challenge the K-3, I think. Love your b&w picture and I think the last picture has potential to try b&w conversion. The up-coming <a href="http://www.newsshooter.com/2016/03/02/cp-2016-hands-on-with-the-sigma-30mm-f1-4-dc-dn-sony-e-mount-lens/">Sigma 30mm f/1.4 E mount </a>is intriguing for APS-C usage as the price is set reasonably at $340 at introduction.</p>

<p>I apologize for the wrong and negative wording for PTTL and I don't mean to belittle the brand that I like. I personally feel underwhelmed with PTTL when it comes to consistent flash power with Pentax K10, K20, K-7 and K-5 experience. Maybe K-3 and K50 get better on PTTL. I have inconsistent flash metering in both AF360 and AF560. I have better luck with AF280 using Auto mode and I have come to grips and now use remote flash trigger using Cactus v5 and use any flash in manual mode with 1/2 to 1/64 power setting. Auto mode is my preferred mode over PTTL when I can't get a consistent flash metering when I bounce with flash mounted on hot shoe. I am not a professional making a living off from photography but an enthusiasts who are attached to Pentax ergonomics, unique limited lens series, and overall well-thought-out designs built for photographers. However, flash and AF are something that I do struggle with Pentax gear. <br /><br /> I am novice with flash but I prefer to use flash with bounce indoor shooting especially in events to lift up shadows and keep iso at good level for details. I find shooting with available light not adequate for some situations but it is crucial not to distract the main photog -- it is a balance act and situation can arise to dictate the flash usage. As I mention before, I will use available light for ambient atmosphere and try best NOT to distract the main photog in an event such as a wedding. I would imagine the hired photographer may have a difficult time to dodge the dozen mobile phone pictures with flashes and if there are few more guest photographers with flashes on, it will add difficulty for the main photog.</p>

<p>@Matt, thank you so much, my favorite is yours #1 on the ski with costumes. </p>

<p>This heavier combination with A6000 and Voiglander 20mm f/1.8 were left in the rental home while I went hiking and skiing with family</p> <p><a href=" src="https://c2.staticflickr.com/2/1636/25625874614_90aefc523f_b.jpg" alt="" width="1024" height="819" /></a></p> <p>The voiglander 20mm f/1.8 is a beauty and have great image quality on both FF and aps-c. It can be too wide for me in street shooting with FF but a great beauty in A6000. One drawback is on the heavier weight and heft but least complaint from me as image quality goes. I use the kit zoom instead of this fast prime as the kit zoom get me versatility while not dragging on weight in both hiking and skiing excursion on snow in spring with slippery surface on ski run or off track hiking excursion.</p>

<p><a href=" src="https://c2.staticflickr.com/2/1607/25582996854_39e316ab4d_b.jpg" alt="" width="1024" height="576" /></a><br> This small combo with NEX 5N and 16-50 pancake kit zoom happen to be my most used combination even though I have my A6000 with me. I use the A6000 with a fast prime in Voiglander 20mm f/1.8 for other 1-lens outing in Mammoth Lakes visit last week.</p>

<p><a href=" src="https://c2.staticflickr.com/2/1578/25576866674_3cd5925f3d_b.jpg" alt="" width="1024" height="232" /></a><br> Pano with NEX 5N and kit zoom in 16-50 @ 16mm and f/11</p>

<p>I am the least comfortable with using flash and I hate the PTTL where the P in Pentax means 'Pathetic' in my book. I use <a href="http://www.techtheman.com/2013_02_01_archive.html">Catus v5 and Nikon SB 24 flash</a> for both of my Pentax and Sony systems. Some modifiers will work better than others and you have to try it before the wedding to work out the logic. It is a chore to use any modifier as it adds weight to the already-heavy gig with flash and likely a bracket. A flash bracket adds weight but I find having a flash bracket make my shooting more steady and stable. As a secondary photograhper, I will try to stay away from bracket. For light modifiers, I rather use something simple and light. <br /> <br /><img src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2443/3614845659_2ca9b9e5cb.jpg" alt="" width="500" height="332" /><br /> <a href="http://www.techtheman.com/2009/08/spectra-light-flash-diffuser-as.html">http://www.techtheman.com/2009/08/spectra-light-flash-diffuser-as.html</a></p> <p>I wrote about my experience with the Spectra Light modifier back in 2009, it is very likely outdated and irrelevant but I like this gadget as it is small and versatile with transparent and solid panel where the light can be reflected (solid white or gold) panel or diffused more if the transparent panel is used. It is similar to the small white reflector that most of the flashes come with. My next modifier will be using something like the Gary Fong Light-sphere that look like a light dome wrapping around the flash.<br> If I am the main person shooting the wedding or event, I will have no hesitation on firing with flashes with or without light modifier. <em><strong>However,</strong> <strong>if I try to help out my friend or close relatives on event or wedding picture,</strong> <strong>I will try to stay low-profile and shoot with available light and only use flash when the main photog is in another venue.</strong></em> Flash distracts both the main photographer(s) as well as the ambience especially in the church and wedding setting. If you have a set of faster primes, you may be surprised with your endeavors. My type of fun outing will be to take 31, 43, 77 limited sets and add a surprise-kick-ass lens with a 135mm. As a secondary photographer, I can stay in stealth mode in a farther distance and not intrude the main photogs. And a fast 135 with a steady hand and SR buy you more than a lunch in the shooting. I usually limit or stay flash-less with primes and use flash with my 17-35 and 28-75 Tamron zooms, I will bring 50-135 if the event is outdoor. <br /><br /><br /><br /> In one event where I shot casually as guest photographer, I brought a Komine 135mm f/2.8 and that's some kind of kick-ass-suprrise 135 that allowed me to stay behind the main photog(s) and shoot in stealth mode making candid shots<br /> <a href=" src="https://c2.staticflickr.com/4/3123/2894574065_d9d8268eee_b.jpg" alt="" width="685" height="1024" /></a><br /> with Komine 135mm f/2.8 and I want his job -- shot behind the main photog(s)<br /> <br /><a href=" src="https://c2.staticflickr.com/4/3127/2895475326_c8571409e5_b.jpg" alt="" width="685" height="1024" /></a><br /> with 28-75 @ 50mm, should have corrected the embarrassing fringing</p> <p><a href=" src="https://c2.staticflickr.com/4/3208/2894563279_32a9f67e81_b.jpg" alt="" width="1024" height="685" /></a><br> Komine 135mm f/2.8, I should have kept the prime </p>

<p><strong>#4 The Kissing Tufa</strong></p> <p><a href=" src="https://c2.staticflickr.com/2/1500/25914935620_1cc30867c1_b.jpg" alt="" width="680" height="1024" /></a></p>

<p><strong>#3 Mono Lake Pano</strong></p> <p><a href=" src="https://c2.staticflickr.com/2/1578/25576866674_3cd5925f3d_b.jpg" alt="" width="1024" height="232" /></a></p>

<p><strong>#2 Skiing in B&W </strong></p> <p><img src="https://c2.staticflickr.com/2/1613/26180490525_aaff2d2a26_b.jpg" alt="" width="1024" height="576" /><br> Picture was shot with Sony HDR-AS100VR mounted on my younger boy helmet reversed skiing in front of me filming the old man going downhill. It would be my life time dream to meet Matt some day and go skiing and shooting together ...</p> <p>It was my 2nd week with Silver Efex Pro in Google Nik Collection. I forgot the film simulation that I used, I like to think of Fuji Acros 100 which I remember is Justin's favorite and it is certainly my favorite. But I have no idea if I actually pick that or a 400 film such as Kodak BW400CN or the TriX 400. I simply forgot which one I have actually used. If you have not tried the now free software, please visit <a href="https://www.google.com/nikcollection/">https://www.google.com/nikcollection/</a> which I highly recommend especially fpr those LR users as the menu in Photo -> Edit In has a new life with an creative aid that can add unique tone to digitalprocessing. The Color Efex Pro 4 is just as amazing. But I am a b&w film lover and this tool gets high praises from Hin.</p>

<p><strong>#1 Mono Lake & Lady In Red</strong></p> <p><a href=" src="https://c2.staticflickr.com/2/1715/26187757245_e82de57920_b.jpg" alt="" width="1024" height="791" /></a></p>

<p>Thank you Matt. I am quite happy with my Sony action camera. I could have gotten Hero3 at the time that I considered an action camera. I remembered Hero3 not having stabilization and it is expensive to have add-on that works as a wireless remote. Hence my alternative choice with Sony HDR-100VR. The build is consumer grade at best but it has few qualities that I like such as the stabilization, wireless remote that I wear it on my wrist, and pretty surprisingly good image quality. The worst quality in the action camera to me is the distortion on corners with pictures but I think I am asking too much for an action camera. <br /><br /> <a href=" src="https://c2.staticflickr.com/2/1544/26134239281_93782fd95f_b.jpg" alt="" width="1024" height="576" /></a><br> I was trying out Color Efex Pro 4 in Nik, this software was recently released for free by Google in Nik Collection. I love Silver Efex and now this is even more intriguing and amazing.<br /><br />My Sony Action Camera HDR-AS100VR was mounted on my younger boy's skiing helmet and reversed while I skied behind him in Mt. Rose. My remote control was worn like a watch with live display. I was using the Interval Shooting mode with 2 second interval and control the start and stop with the remote worn on my wrist.</p>

<p>Thank you Matt for your inputs. I love both of your videos. I will love to survive the Rambo run. And I would love to ski like your son in the video. You live in a spectacular place for outdoors in both winters and summers. <br /><br />I truly wish the Ricoh follow through on version with WG-M2 to step up with good refinements over the WG-M1. Action camera has a lot of potential but competition is high. I have been thinking of Olympus Tough 860 and so far I have put that thought of another camera into the back burner as I do have way too much in my closet. </p>

<p>Justin, I have the same dilemma. I will think it will boil down to your usage. Go with 16-50 for low light and I know it has the SDM problems but a used copy in good standing will cause in low to high $400 range. A bargain if you can get a reasonable good copy. </p> <p>For general purpose, I will toss a coin to pick one over the other between the 16-85 and 18-135. Matt loves his copy of 18-135 and I love Matt's outputs on 18-135. The 16-85 is heavier and slightly a touch better on the corners. Both have their pros and cons as in better range vs better corners in wider aperture. </p> <p>The 18-55 WR is not a bad choice either if casual and light-weight is your criteria.</p>

<p>I want to see if anyone has experience with Ricoh/Pentax water-proof and action camera such as the Pentax WG-M1 and WG-M2. Please share your experience.</p> <p>I am currently using a Sony Action Camera HDR-AS100VR that goes with a wireless remote worn as a watch with live display and record/stop-record button while I can mount my camera remotely on helmet or my son's helmet. It has a limited range of wireless remote functionality with 30 feet or so.<br> <strong>#1 No Diving</strong><br> <a href=" src="https://c2.staticflickr.com/2/1476/25832615990_24bd17200f_b.jpg" alt="" width="1024" height="576" /></a></p> <p><strong>#2 Spring Skiing Selfie</strong><br> <a href=" src="https://c2.staticflickr.com/2/1534/26080934326_dde6ec111a_b.jpg" alt="" width="1024" height="576" /></a></p> <p>Both pictures are processed with the free Nik software in Silver Efex b&w conversion</p>

<p><strong>#3 LCD with TLR cover</strong></p> <p><a href=" src="https://c2.staticflickr.com/2/1615/25357237603_262e592ba7_b.jpg" alt="" width="1024" height="683" /></a></p>

<p><strong>#2 Red 428i</strong></p> <p><a href=" src="https://c2.staticflickr.com/2/1673/25911361842_28c073ed54_b.jpg" alt="" width="1024" height="683" /></a><br /> with Pentax FA 77mm f/1.8</p> <p> </p>

<p><strong>#1 Inside Out</strong><br> <a href=" src="https://c2.staticflickr.com/2/1492/26022107586_7b9452c595_b.jpg" alt="" width="1024" height="576" /></a></p>

<p><a href=" src="https://c2.staticflickr.com/2/1641/25432488464_97580a955f_b.jpg" alt="" width="791" height="1024" /></a></p> <p>All with Sony A6000. From top to bottom, 1, 2 and 3 are from Voiglander 20mm f/1.8 and 3rd is from Fujinon 75mm f/1.8. </p>

<p>I will next plan to shoot some of my Pentax lenses on A7 or A6000. Stay tune for the shoot out experience with</p> <ul> <li>DF-D 100 WR macro</li> <li>31 limited</li> <li>35 limited with a KA to Sony E mount with step-less aperture control</li> <li>and more with 77 limited and learn to control the MF ring</li> <li>Some super-takumar love with 28, 35, 50, 85 and 100</li> </ul> <p>Or if there is certain type of shooting you find intriguing, drop me a comment here and I will feel my writing and contribution here worthwhile.</p>

<p><a href=" src="https://c2.staticflickr.com/2/1673/25911361842_28c073ed54_b.jpg" alt="" width="1024" height="683" /></a><br> FA 77mm, Sony A7</p> <p><a href=" src="https://c2.staticflickr.com/2/1482/25937414221_7d023f931e_b.jpg" alt="" width="1024" height="683" /></a></p>

<p>Did have many off focus shots using the FA 77mm on Sony A7. Manual Focusing has been my biggest let down in using 77 limited on A7 as the slippery manual focus ring require my tweak to squeeze the ring with two fingers tight to dampen the ring movement. The lens does well for me in image quality, I love its color and bokeh. Rendering is super-smooth and picture come out as I remember my 77 usage on K-5. Would I use it to shoot similar type of pictures on Sony, yes and no. I prefer the usage on Super-Tak 85mm f/1.9 or some similar lens that excel on manual focusing. </p> <p><a href=" src="https://c2.staticflickr.com/2/1584/25402350253_1415d156db_b.jpg" alt="" width="1024" height="1024" /></a></p> <p>I wish some kind souls actually read what I write. It is difficult this day to draw any energy in Pentax forums in Photo.net. It is hard to keep going without feedback. I don't mind but it can go better with a comment. <em><strong>Hin, just shut hell up and share more pictures.</strong></em></p>

<p><a href=" src="https://c2.staticflickr.com/2/1686/25374756344_67a7193f0c_b.jpg" alt="" width="1024" height="683" /></a></p> <p> <br /><br /><br> <a href=" src="https://c2.staticflickr.com/2/1679/25886679592_38abb805bb_b.jpg" alt="" width="1024" height="576" /></a><br> Both were taken with Voiglander 40mm f/1.4 and A6000. A nice combo for small and compact size similar to FA 43mm f/1.9. The Voiglander has great character wide open and when paired with a $35 Helicoil adapter for better close up, it is well rounded manual focus lens that is UNLIKE any bigger dSLR lenses.</p>

<p>Some product shots using the A6000 and E 50mm f/1.8<br> The subject is my NEX 5N with Fujian 35mm f/1.7 mounted<br> <a href=" src="https://c2.staticflickr.com/2/1615/25357237603_262e592ba7_b.jpg" alt="" width="1024" height="683" /></a><br> f/2.0, iso 2500</p> <p><a href=" src="https://c2.staticflickr.com/2/1593/25353251454_abf7476bbb_b.jpg" alt="" width="1024" height="683" /></a><br> f/2.0, iso 1600</p> <p><a href=" src="https://c2.staticflickr.com/2/1647/25891003521_933c7490c1_b.jpg" alt="" width="1024" height="683" /></a></p> <p>The 5N is a smaller camera than the A6000. Instead of getting a 1 inch sensor camera, I am keeping my 5N and use smaller lenses like the 16-50 kit zoom, sigma 30 and 19, along with manual compact lenses such as my Voiglander 40mm f/1.4 or Fujian 35mm f/1.7. The combo can't beat the size of a Sony Rx100 IV or Panasonic LX100 but it is smaller than any dSLR that I have used. One of my most favorite Pentax is the Kx but the size can't match the 5N with a small lens. I have these comparisons pictures of K-01 and Sony 5N before. </p> <p><img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7033/6815338323_3bd78a74ba_z.jpg" alt="" width="640" height="406" /></p> <p><img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7002/6815338317_0b3f7fb7e5_z.jpg" alt="" width="640" height="359" /><br> When the 1" sensor camera get closer to < $400, I may consider it but until then, I am using the 5N for those moments that smaller size is better suited on 5N.</p>

<p><a href=" src="https://c2.staticflickr.com/2/1458/25549622276_41142aa037_b.jpg" alt="" width="791" height="1024" /></a><br> Sony A6000 with Voiglander 40mm f/1.4 and Fujian 35mm f/1.7, all shot wide open</p>