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bruno_gaurish

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Posts posted by bruno_gaurish

  1. hi there,

    my macbookpro just died (the motherboard, only 2 years old, no apple care...) so now i have to get another one.

    my question is: in the 2.0 ghz intel i7 quad core faster than the 2.7 ghz intel i7 dual core WHEN PROCESSING

    PHOTOS WITH LIGHTROOM AND PHOTOSHOP No gaming, no video. It is getting so technical, i just cant figured out...

    Any clue very welcome...

  2. <p>Thanks to you all! I don't shoot manual in auto iso, i set it in my C1 C2 C3 preset with shutter speed priority, and use it only when i shoot some vip walking from outdoor with bright sunshine to indoor with very little light. So i did the factory reset and it work now THANK YOU, i love this forum!</p>
  3. <p>thanks for your answers... Yes, too good to be true, i just can't believe such a site does exist... Somehow i have this funny idea that the internet can be a safe place... Well; yet very happy that such a forum does exist! Thank you guys!</p>
  4. thanks for your answers. Unfortunately i have a mac so raw therapee in not an option and i don't understand the rest? What is ACR RAW 5.5 and DPP?

    I have the latest version of lightroom (v.2.5) and camera raw (AdobeCameraRaw v.5.5 i suppose?) Camera raw 5.5 download the pictures to the computer but refuse to convert in DNG. then the cr2 file won't open...

  5. <p>ok, i am now trying to load some crops that i just exported in jpg and resized to 72dpi with photoshop. No noise removal, no sharpening no nothing. different iso, 1 picture called mk1 was shot with my old 5d, the others with the mk2. btw, yes i am aware about the danger of underexposure, in fact the crop 2500 was underexposed and has been tweek a bit, so noise is huge...</p><div>00UUfs-172855684.jpg.06bbdd0551c9296ceb0ce4f32cde9024.jpg</div>
  6. <p>Hi, i am starting to wonder is there is anything wrong with my 5DMk2. When i shoot in small raw (9Mp) at 800 iso there is more noise than with my 40D... Full raw, noise is there, at 1000 iso and up. Also when the metering screwed up and the picture is under exposed, there is so much red in the shadows... I am just not happy with this expensive body.... and too far from a reliable canon shop to have my camera checked. Any advise before i ship the camera to a good canon center?</p>
  7. <p>considering my shooting environment(while shooting a ritual in a temple, you can't disturb/move to frame your picture, you must deal with where you are) so zoom is needed and prime lens not an option.So if i understand properly, at f/4 the 16-35 mk1 would be better (sharper) than the 17-40? That would be a clear answer to my question! (Then i have the option to crank up to f/2.8 hoping iq remain ok)</p>
  8. <p>Thanks for the comments... Yes, i feel like the 16-35mk1 for the extra stop witch is my priority. I guess i was wondering how big of a difference is the IQ compare to the 17-40 at max aperture, max iso, and very often very wide angle (i have read that the 16-35mk1 IQ is somehow pretty bad @ f2.8?... If so, then i'd better stick with the 17-40)</p>
  9. <p>I shoot for an NGO in india, mostly indoor photojournalism with very little light. I use the 5d body and yes, f2.8 is important to me. But the 16-35 f2.8mk2 is so expensive. I shoot rituals in temples and sharpness is not <em>that</em> critical to me (say less critical that the ability to shoot when there is virtually no light) So the choice is more realistically between the 17-40 and the 16-35mk1. Is the 17-40 way better in term of IQ. Should i sacrify the extra stops (f2.8) for the quality of the 17-40 f4 or is that difference not so significant so i'd rather go with the 16-35mk1 (on ebay)?... or should i just wait until i get more cash and definitely go with the 16-35mk2? Tricky question isn't it? THANKS...</p>
  10. <p>I am now thinking of getting the 5D MK2 but 1st i am wondering how many shots i've made with my old great 5D body? Does the camera keep track of the # of shots since day 1? (i use 2 bodies, 4 CF cards that i reformat each time...) Thanks</p>
  11. <p>Just moved from PC to Mac, i used to open my (500 daily) pictures with the great Faststone software, so fast with RAW files. What comes with my new macpro really sucks, and what i found online is... worse... The best i've found so far is Xee but really, it is so bad compare to Faststone. I can't believe there are no photo viewer can can just open fast raw filesin a double clic, , go to the next shot with 1 clic, delete with 1 clic, copy with 1 clic. Is it too much for a Mac???</p>

    <p> </p>

  12. Thanks for the infos... In fact I cannot run AC or any appliance that need a lot of energy (I'm in a small village of southern india with limited electricity) I think a dry cabinet is the best bet since it remain airtight and dry even during power failure... Any good brand to recommend (in small size)? Thank you
  13. Woao... Great infos... Thank you very much! I think I will go for a dry cabinet since I'll be here for months, maybe years...

    Well, I do use my equipment every day but sometimes I have to leave for a several months (back home) and may leave some external hard drives, lenses etc here. So At this point I may just have everything very dry in the cabinet and then store it in a waterproof bag for the time I can also put some silica gel in the bag... why not)

  14. Now relocated in south India, a couple months from the monsoon, I need to find a

    way to store my cameras and computer equipment. I have heard about 2 approaches:

    the silica gel and the dry cabinet.

    The silica gel comes in bag or canister, suck the humidity and can be re-used

    over and over. The dry cabinet need power and monitor the humidity from 40% to 5%

     

    I like better the silica gel for long term storage when power is not available.

    I just wonder if it is enough to prevent moisture from growing in my expensive

    lenses ans cameras...

    Does anyone have experience in that field?

    Thanks

    bruno

  15. Now relocated in south India, a couple months from the monsoon, I need to find a

    way to store my photo and computer equipment. So far I know about 2 approaches:

    the silica gel and the dry cabinet.

    The silica gel comes in bag or canister, suck the humidity and can be re-used

    over and over. The dry cabinet need power and monitor the humidity from 40% to 5%

     

    I like better the silica gel for long term storage when power is not available.

    I just wonder if it is enough to prevent moisture from growing in my expensive

    lenses ans cameras...

    Does anyone have experience in that field?

    Thanks

    bruno

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