frankz

Unless the lens get ran over by a truck, it's doubtful one person could wear out a shutter in twenty years.

That was funny - Jason, I want some of what you're smoking!

Sorry Josh - I had 'P2" on my mind for some reason.

There's one for sale on FleaBay for $3800 or so. I think it's an 8X10.

Some of the older German barrel-mount goodies aren't bad at all and can be had rather cheaply as compaired to the newer name-brand stuff, that is, if you have a way to rig a shutter or use a Sinar (Horseman also) and can use the behind-the-lens shutter system as I do.

 

 

Best thing to do is play with many lenses and see for yourself what you want from your work. The lenses that give the results you want to see are the best for you.

S K Grimes (http://www.skgrimes.com/) makes one that bulletproof for about $40-$50.

Gary Anthes, Jan 02, 2008; 09:01 a.m.

To the list of reputable online camera sellers, sometimes with good prices, I'd add Ritz Camera and Dell (yes, the PC company).

____________________

 

Gary:

 

Dell has some of the worst customer service there is - I wouldn't send an enemy there.

If you want to do portraiture you have, in my opinion, just shot yourself in the foot by wanting an on-camera flash.

 

For about $200 (FleaBay) to $600 (new) you can get what Novatron calls their "Fun Kit" - a 240 w/s power pack, 2 heads, 2 umbrellas, 2 stands, and cabling to hook up your to your camera's sync port. Make sure you get the "digital" (black p/s) model as the trigger voltage is not high enough to damage your camera's flash trigger 'contacts' (which is also a consideration with the older on-camera flashes). Older cameras had mechanical contacts for sync - the newer cams have electronic types and can be damaged with the high voltage of older units.

Just as an FYI, Best Price Cameras, Enterprisephoto.com, Infinitiphoto.com,and JandKcameras.com) are all the same, according to Resellerratings.com.

 

 

Spread the word to all who'll listen.

I called them some time ago just to play with them.

 

 

Extra batterries for the 5D are $132.00 each and did you know this price is for a 5D with a polycarbonate body? The magnesium bodied (as all 5Ds are anyway) version was $2100.00. I had to bite my tongue to keep from laughing at the guy. The shipping charges were 7% of the total $2514.00 "order".

 

 

He asked for a credit card number - I told him 'no thanks - B&H is cheaper and he hung up on me.

 

 

The old saying "If it sounds too good to be true, it probably is" is quite correct here. Call 'em and play - just don't give them any numbers.

The simplest answer to avoiding the JPG problems - shoot in RAW, convert to TIFF. I don't use JPG unless I'm taking pics at the grandkid's sports affairs.

 

 

While JPG is nice for the net (fast uploads), the quality stinks.

Eric Fournier, Dec 28, 2007; 02:14 p.m.

Of course it would seem easier to go to B&H's website.

 

 

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Who'd have thunk it?

My bad - that's Schott.

If you're asking re: quality, B+W or Heliopan are good brands, but anything using Shott glass is the best - this assumes you just want a protection-type filter, clear or UV coated.

As cheap as they've gotten due to the "pros" going digital, get a Hasselblad of some sort. Many options there and the film will be around for a while as will be the parts and accessories.

 

 

Besides - haven't you always wanted one?

James Colwell, Dec 26, 2007; 10:42 p.m.

 

I've put at least two SanDisk Ultra II 1GB cards through the wash and dry cycles - no sweat. They still work fine (after more than a year), and so do the dirty ones. Just try to keep your camera out of the washer.

________________________________

 

The washer isn't so much the problem as is the dry cycle (grin).

Take a few shots and see if the result meets your standards. That's the only real way to select a lens for any particular job. In the past, I've used lenses that by no means were designed for what I did with them and got some really pretty shots; conversely, I've gotten poor results from recommended lenses. Your eyes, your art.

There was a tank by Yankee, I believe, that would hold 8 4X5 sheets. It measured about 6X8, as I recall. Had one and liked it for B&W, but color would be a major PITA. Occasionally, they're for sale on FleaBay. The sheets went into a plastic slotted holder on their sides, the lid was replaced, and the lights went on to do the three step processing in the one tank with a water bath between steps (at least, that's how I did it). A quick trip to EBay produced this - http://cgi.ebay.com/3-YANKEE-4x5-AGITANKS-w-filmholders-inside_W0QQitemZ320199269291QQihZ011QQcategoryZ29993QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem Check 'em out.

I made an adapter a few months ago to do just what you describe and really wasn't too pleased with the result, but I used a 30D which may have much to do with it due to the size of the hole in the lens mount.

 

 

The photo came out rather fuzzy using a Rodenstock Grandagon 90mm which just ain't right for that lens - maybe I did something wrong.

 

 

Anyway - that's my experience. I've seen them for sale (ready to go) somewhere on the net but the item was to adapt a Nikon to a LF camera.

The 100-400 lens is out as you have a crop sensor like my 30D unless you're willing to work at a longer distance. You'd be well off using a diopter with your present 35-135mm lens, at least, that's the cheapest way out; about $30 for a really good one, up or down from there.

 

 

Past that, look into a macro-focusing lens, about a 28-80mm or so.

Many will give you a standard answer like something from a manufacturer's website. but I've preferred to see for myself.

 

My method was to evenly illuminate an 18% grey surface (it doesn't matter if flash or continuous for this as long as all are the same), focus (on a small line drawn for just this purpose), shoot it with a meter and expose a sheet of transparency film (or use a digital back) directly from the meter's reading. Again, do the same for each lens you're testing; shutter speed, f stop, film speed, etc. and et al.

 

I've been told this is a waste of time, but ...

 

It will be readily apparent what you need to do (or not do).

I still use a Luna Pro F (Gossen) and even meter for my 30D on occasion.

 

 

I really prefer manually metering - yeah, I know it takes longer but got into some habits with my Hassy, RB67 and Sinar.

 

 

A good spot meter shouldn't slow you down too much.

I believe the film you're talking about is the Recording Film Kodak used to make (don't remember the number) and pretty high speed (ASA3000) if I remember correctly.

 

 

For taking photos of black cats in coal piles at 2am.

Is there any significant difference in the EF and EF-S lenses other than some

cameras won't mount the EF-S style?

 

Just curiousity - can't really see any other than Canon had to do something to

make their system not quite so interchangeable to help their sales.

With optical zoom, the image is made larger; with digital zoom, the pixels making up the image are made larger, giving an effect similar to that of the early 1000 ASA film - very grainy but instead of the image having the appearance of being made up of colored golf balls, these are square. The term is "pixelated".