Paul Lewis1664881697

<p>Walter, please re-read those posts and explain how you perceive them to be "bashing Walmart".</p>

<p>I never understood why saving a couple bucks was worth having Walmart screw with your film. I send my film directly to Dwayne's and I've had excellent and prompt service.</p>

<p>It depends on what type of photos (portrait, landscape, etc.), but over the past couple of years, I've been using my Nikkor 24mm/f2.8 AF the most.</p>

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<p>Well, Kodachrome is different than my C-41 because my film is available and can be developed at 150,000 places across the country.</p>

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<p>Sorry, I don't get your point. What does Kodachrome's availability have to do with scanning the film? You stated, "Am I looking at Kodachrome, or am I kooking at a Nikon Coolscan IV". How does a Nikon Coolscan affect a Kodachrome scan more than a C-41 scan?</p>

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<p>I take online Kodachrome shots with a grain of salt. Am I looking at Kodachrome, or am I looking at a Nikon Coolscan IV ?</p>

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<p>Couldn't you say that about any film? Why is Kodachrome any different?</p>

<p>I think Kodachrome really excels at sunset (sorry, I'm not awake early enough for sunrise)... the warm tones of the sun really look tremendous when reflected on faces.</p>

<p>Dwayne's does excellent work and I will continue having all my E6 processed there, as well as buying fresh film from them.</p>

<p>If you liked Provia 400H, try the newer 400X, it's a finer grained film with a similar palette.</p>

<p>I've had some TMAX 3200 printed at 11x14 and it looks really nice.</p>

<p>The only drawback to Provia 400X is that it costs more. However, I find that the cost is justified... it's a great film.</p>

<p>If you need B&W, I highly recommend MV Labs. They aren't cheap, but the service is excellent.</p>

<p>I recommend Provia 400X. I've been using the film since it was released in Japan three years ago. I've been very pleased with the results... realistic, vibrant colors and good sharpness, low grain for a high speed film.</p>

<p>You aren't the norm. I suspect that the answer to my question is that very few people have files from 10 - 20 years ago.</p>

<p>For those that think it's easy to keep digital photos over a long period of time, ask yourself how many digital files you have from 5 years ago. How many do you have from 10 years ago? 20 years?</p>

<p>Look at the door in the left photo. It's also cyan.</p>

<p>I've read about Polapan, but I don't understand how the film doesn't come out covered in chemicals. What do you do with the film after processing?</p>

<p>I disagree with underexposing it. It's more important to compose your scene without extreme differences in highlights and shadows. Shoot it at 64ASA but be conscious of your scene. Expose for highlights... for example, my Nikon F4s exposes Kodachrome perfectly with matrix metering at 64ASA.</p>

<p>Nice read...<br>

Daniel, do you expect to shoot 900 rolls?</p>

<p>Thanks so much for the link. These photographers are true artisans, and their talents are being wasted. I'd love to have my photograph taken by one of these people.</p>

<p>I wouldn't bother using a tungsten balanced film in daylight (unless you have a proper filter). The effect is not pleasant or cool looking. I've made the mistake before by improperly using my filter on a super8 camera.</p>

<p>I would start by exposing the slides at normal rated speed, but keeping in mind that you should meter for highlights and try not to have a scene with too much dynamic range (meaning that highlights should not be more than around 3-4 stops brighter than your darker elements). You can read a lot about how to get the best out of Kodachrome in particular by doing a search on Photo.net. I recommend shooting during the "golden hour" about an hour or so before sunset. Kodachrome excels in this case due to it's strong ability to render the color red. Kodachrome also reproduces skin tones very nicely, but when dealing with green foliage, try to shoot it with adequate light. Greens that are shaded will tend to be black.. Kodachrome reproduces brightly lit greens well, but shaded greens will look very dark.</p>

<p>If you plan on shooting anything with straight lines (architecture, interior shots, etc.), absolutely get a bubble level. It's the best $20 I've spent in photography.</p>

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<p>If you need a faster film, definitely try Provia 400X. Low grain for a fast film, better than the old 400H.</p>

<p>Even though I have respect for the Hasselblads and their amazing lenses, it's not a camera that I would use as a regular shooter. For instance, I'm often shooting in dark situations, using long exposure, shooting quickly, needing to change film in the dark or needing to change quickly, etc. The 'Blad with a prism finder is quite a large and heavy camera. Lenses, even used, are expensive. A 35mm camera such as the Nikon F4s, F5 and F6 are much more suited to my needs.<br>

If I were shooting in a studio, on a tripod, and not in a big rush, I'd love to have a 'Blad.</p>

<p>I can't wait to see what you get as a result. <br>

I haven't used the newer Ektachrome film, but I've heard good things about it. The last few years of Kodachrome 40 were not good ones due to poorly lubricated carts which caused jitter when projected, so you didn't miss too much. The Ektachrome carts probably have better quality control.</p>