gpdno

UV/skylight are a marketing ploy and a waist of money. Just one more piece of glass to affect the image. Depending on what I'm shooting I may use a polarizer, or a Red for B&W. Film is film, be it 35mm, 6x7, or 4x5 so the filters do the same reguardless of format.

Uuuggg...flash sucks. Many people, like myself, will avoid any flash enabled site. The work on your site should speak for it's self. If you think you need flashy stuff to improve your work maybe you should just do better work. Forget Flash...just take photos-a flash is ok then :)

>Hey, Twisted Sister is from Long Island!

 

...and this is a good thing? :)

Have both. Started in Film, Nikon FA, FM2, F4s. Bought a D100, liked it, the Bought a medium format - RZ67 its great. Just bought a Toyo-View 4x5, falling in love with film all over again. Both a cheap "broken" Nikon 990, fixed it up for a digital IR camera (f/8 @ 125) works great.

Film-Digital no matter, just depends on what I'm shooting and my mood :)

For digital I always shoot RAW. You need several 1GB memory cards. My D100 stores about 100 RAW per card. I have four 1GB cards.

Nothing really, just a marketing ploy to get you to buy more equipment. Putting extra glass between the lens and the subject only increases the chance of trouble (flare, dust, finger prints, etc.) Unless you have a specific need for a filter (ie polarizer to darken sky, warming filter, etc) you shouldn't use one. A lens cap is cheaper and better at protecting your lens.

Ask the bride if there is anything specific she would like. Maybe a favorite grandman, or aunt.

iView Pro

Well I must say these are better overall that the last set you showed. Your exposures are off and you have flat contrast, how are you metering? In-camera, or handheld. If in-camera, are you using spot or some fancy matrix metering? You might want to do a quick review of the Zone system if you plan on shooting B&W for the wedding. #8 is the best, but still poor exposure and bad contrast. Keep at it...

You can order them from toyo's website for about $9.

Well, I guess that would depend on what your ultimate goal is. Are you doing this for your enjoyment or for profit? Do you aspire to be a car photographer and want to use these images for your portfolio? Or are you just trying to drum up business for your portrait studio.

 

 

Personally, when I'm out shooting for fun and take a photo of say a car, I would give the owner my card and ask him for his address and send him a free photo. More often then not, this drives sale. Last weekend I was shooting and old church in a small town, a man approached me and we talked, gave him my card and offered to send him a contact print. This Saturday he called and booked a portrait session for him and his wife.

squicky toys work great for adults...and with kids too...

Thanks,

Can't wait to try the "new" camera and lens this weekend!

Ok, I just bought my first LF lens :) The "B" is bulb and the "T" is

Time and they are both for longer exposures, correct? But why would

I use one over the other?

I bought an Epson R200 just for that purpose. It uses special CD to print on. Works very well and looks very professional. Works with Mac and Windows. I bought it at Best Buy for about $75

I have recently purchased a number of things from HKsupplies and have been very happy.

Great prices and very fast shipping. I would not have a problem buying from any number

of the Asia ebay sellers.

Try this link...

 

http://www.largeformatphotography.info/articles/ZoneDial.pdf

You can try taking a dark slide. Right before, or after you take your night exposure, place the lens cap on and take a picture for the same time and apeture (you can't take this at a latter time because the enviormental conditions -temp, humidity- will change and the noise will be different). The resulting image will be the noise off the ccd. You can then take the two images into photoshop and use the dark silde image to subtract out the noise.

 

ps the specs for the new Nikon D2x clains it has this feature built-in

I have been using Digital B&W Pro for several months now and am quite happy with the results I get. The preview feature is very nice, allowing you see the effect of a "digital" filter (red, orange, yellow, blue, and green).

FYI-for those who don't know...

Differing amounts of spherical aberration alter how lenses render out-of-focus points of light, and thus their bokeh. The word "bokeh" comes from the Japanese word "boke" (pronounced bo-keh) which literally means fuzziness or dizziness.

I have the MMII and like it. I looked on there website back when I bough mine and there wen't any major differences. Mainly relocated a few buttons and other ergonomic changes.

FYI, focusing take a lot of practice and you have to be able to judge distances underwater. If I was to do it over again, I would wait and get the new MMIII, much more $$$ but auto-focus would be well worth it.

iView Media Pro. Worth the money. I tried Canto Cumulus but was very disapointed.

So far this year...

 

respond.com - 2 booked weddings

 

e-op.com - 3 booked weddings

CoolPix 990 - buy a used one on eBay, pull the IR cutoff filter out, mount a IR banpass in front, and you got a digital IR camera. Quite cool and cheap.

Check out

 

http://www.abe.msstate.edu/%7Ejwooten/camera/lense.html

 

Did this about two month ago...way cool

It could be a bad card. Do you have another one you could try. Over the weekend one of my 512MB cards stoped working with my usb2.0 card reader, but it still works with the camera and a firewire card reader(I have tossed the card in the garbage, and replaced it with a new one).

You can pick up a 256 or 512 Lexar card cheep these days.

 

And yes, according to eMachines website they come with a 6-1 card reader...