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cosmo_genovese

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Posts posted by cosmo_genovese

    Accessories: If You Had It To Do Over Again, . . .

    in Leica and Rangefinders

    Posted

    Black M6 with 50mm f/2 Summicron; (concave surface) soft shutter release I fashioned myself that doesn't wobble like the (convex) "Softie" (I've explained this in an earlier post); a Leica rubber eyecup; correction lens (+2.0 diopters); original Leica neckstrap; red, orange, and yellow Leica filters. I don't use flash with the M6 so I took the hotshoe cover from an old Minox 35 ML and slid it into the M6's hotshoe giving the top of the camera a clean, plane (and plain) look; 450 rolls of ("old-formulation") Tri-X (I've never shot a roll of color film in my M6).

    Bromide Drag or Light Leak

    in Leica and Rangefinders

    Posted

    Bromide drag is not a film "problem" but rather a photographic paper phenomenon that occurs with chlorobromide papers (fiber). It's generally caused by developing out the exposed paper beyond it's normal capacity. For instance, if the "normal" development time for the image is 2 minutes, "bromide drag" might become apparent after you've developed the image for, say, 5 minutes. It shows up as a greyish tone that can appear somewhat muddy, but it can also enhance certain images depending on the effect you're after and if you learn to control it.

     

     

    When I used to process a lot of fiber-based paper--especially Portriga Rapid 111 for images more in the middle- to high-key range--I'd add some benzotriazole to my paper developer and "process out" the image for ten (10) minutes or more. You have to do this with constant gentle agitation during the entire development. Once all the silver's dissolved out, you'll start to get bromide drag which'll give the image an aspect that you couldn't get just through normal processing and flashing, for instance. There's a good example of bromide drag (and a brief reference to it) in one of Ralph Gibson's nude shots in his book "Darkroom" [Vol 1], edited by Eleanor Lewis and published by Gibson in what is his now long-defunct Lustrum Press.

    Loupe question

    in Leica and Rangefinders

    Posted

    Besides being a marvelous piece of glass--as I mentioned above--the translucent and black "skirts" of my ISTON APO4x actually screw in as opposed to those of the Schneider and Rodenstock that just snap in and are prone to fall off as they age. I'm telling you, this loupe is definitely worth the $39. It comes with a neckstrap that attaches to screw-mount metal lugs. As I said, this baby's all metal, focusable, apochromatic glass.

     

    I don't remember where I got it, but it may be made (or maybe just distributed) by "Argraph Corp, Carlstadt NJ 07072", according to information on the box which also indicates that the trademark for the loupe is owned by "Iston Photographic Inc".

     

    Check it out.

    Loupe question

    in Leica and Rangefinders

    Posted

    Best value for the money and rivaling the much-vaunted, highly touted Schneider 4x (which I also have) is the $US39, all metal, optical glass, focusable "ISTON 4x" which comes with both translucent and black viewing shields. This is by far the best 4x loupe I've ever owned.

    (Not even) New to Leica

    in Leica and Rangefinders

    Posted

    Ignacio, Che vos. ¿Qué vachaché?--

     

    I have the .72 with a 50/f2; I use a +2.0 diopter which is better than using the glasses I wear. All my cameras have diopters because the viewfinder magnifications differ from camera to camera. For instance, if I'm not mistaken the M6 viewfinder is calibrated at a

    -0.5 (minus 0.5) magnification, but I can't seem to find the citation for that factoid. That would make a difference in which diopter you got. If your friend's going to pick up a diopter for you while s/he's in New York, you might first want to go to an optician and have your eyes checked against that fact(oid), once we establish--with the help of the Forum--whether that's true or just a piece of misinformation . . . .

    How to shoot B&W with artificial light?

    in Leica and Rangefinders

    Posted

    Be aware that film ISO is based on a "Daylight" calibration. If you plan to shoot the ISO-rated film under artificial (tungsten) lighting, then you'll need to rate your film according to panchromatic film's slightly different response to the wavelength of tungsten/halogen light--i.e., adjust for its "Tungsten EI". To do this, divide the "Normal" daylight ISO by 1.5 and you'll arrive at the nominal tungsten EI at which you should rate your film. For example, you would rate TRI-X ISO 400, shot "straight" (that is, shot as though Normal and processed Normal under Daylight) at 400/1.5=EI 267, or the closest stop to that calculation--viz, EI 250.

     

    Keep in mind that this calculation and compensation does not obtain for all fluorescent light whose wavelengths panchro film isn't that crazy about. You'll do okay with most fluorescent, especially "Daylight" fluorescent, though, if you adhere to the same formula.

     

    If you plan to push film and rate it higher and then compensate for the underexposure by overdeveloping, that's a whole different story.

    Softie Debate

    in Leica and Rangefinders

    Posted

    At www.porters.com you can find a threaded, convex version of a soft shutter release for $US 3.25 (Item Number 10-0117). I got one of these many years ago from I don't remember where and adapted it to my M6: I took some black photographic tape, cut it lengthwise and wrapped it around the stem of the soft shutter release until its diameter equaled that of the M6's shutter button. This keeps the thingamagig from wobbling (like all of them tend to do--even Tom Abrammsson's) because you create a platform that is essentially an extension of the camera's own release.

    (Before screwing it into the shutter release) I painted it flat (matte) black, used a dab of something similar to Locktite and have had it on the camera for years.

     

    It's a personal preference, but I like the "feel" of the camera with the extra extension; it gives me more control, especially in a vertical orientation. I've had soft shutter releases on all my cameras that can accommodate them, especially the Nikons. The Nikon brand release is really well made; I wouldn't leave home without one.

    Re-gluing back door vinyl of M camera

    in Leica and Rangefinders

    Posted

    PVA glue is designed for binding leather and leatherette to other surfaces. I used it over 5 years ago for the exact same purpose you're looking to use it for and have never had to re-glue those corners on the camera back. You can find it at archival product supply houses like Light Impressions (www.lightimpressionsdirect.com), University Products (www.universityproducts.com), and Metal Edge Inc (www.metaledgeinc.com).

    Wrist Strap for M?

    in Leica and Rangefinders

    Posted

    David,

     

    The clove hitch is composed of two overlapping loops: Take the strap and twist it to form the first loop, hold it, then twist the remaining strap in the opposite direction to form the other loop, overlap them, and place your hand through the part where they overlap.

     

    In order to understand this more clearly, you might first want to experiment tying a piece of cord onto a pencil or something cylindrical; then, slip it off so you can see how the loops overlap and reproduce that relationship on your camera strap.

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