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cosmo_genovese

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Posts posted by cosmo_genovese

    Which compact digital p&s to replace my 3MP Elph?

    in Mirrorless Digital Cameras

    Posted

    Hi, Lutz,

     

    I'm currently looking for a replacement for my digital point and shoot, too, and have been researching the following digital cameras: Sony DSC-W100 (8 megapixels); Sony DSC-W50 (7 megapixels); Canon Elph D-550; Casio EX-Z750; Casio EX-Z850 (8 mp with image stabilization); Panasonic Lumix LX-1 (shoots RAW, TIFF & JPEG). All, except the Lumix, are extremely pocketable and have the features you outline in your query. For example, the Casio EX-Z850 reportedly has a .003 second lag time. The Sony DSC-W100 won't be out until around April 21st. Mind you, I haven't gotten to the point where I've tested any of these myself, but this may be a starting point for your own research.

     

    Saluti.

    Recommend a Book

    in Black & White Practice

    Posted

    For some good accounts by several well-known photographers (Ralph Gibson, Wynn Bullock, W. Eugene Smith, Eikoh Hosoe, Lisette Model, Neal Slavin, inter alia) about how they approach shooting B&W and how they achieve what they're looking for in the darkroom, read "Darkroom" (Lustrum Press: 1977; ISBN 0-912810-20-3) and "Darkroom 2" (Lustrum Press: 1978; ISBN 0-912810-22-X).

    How to photograph art pieces

    in Lighting Equipment

    Posted

    I've had very good success photographing art work using two strobes (Dyna-Lites) shooting through umbrellas. In effect, I create a large copy stand by placing the umbrellas equidistant from each side of the art work at a 30-degree angle. I aim the strobes so that the light criss-crosses the other on the painting; then I meter the four corners and the center of the work until my readings all agree. I aim and focus my 55mm micro-Nikkor on the center of the art and bracket my shots, especially when using slide film (it's especially important to use a flat-field lens like the micro-Nikkor to avoid the barrel distortion you'll get with a regular lens; the 105mm AF micro-Nikkor is also a flat-field lens). Of course, all this is done on a tripod with a cable release and mirror lock-up. Depending on the properties of the piece of art, you may need to either polarize the light sources or use a linear polarizer on your lens.

     

    Buona fortuna.

    Tungsten lights for portraits

    in Lighting Equipment

    Posted

    Ed, first of all, I'm only talking about black & white film here---I've said nothing about color (what I said does NOT apply to color). Second, I am not implying that you need more light; you inferred incorrectly. The fact is that there is a "Tungsten Factor" for properly exposing black & white film under tungsten light---<I>i.e.</I>, Daylight ISO divided by 1.5 = Tungsten EI. Even Kodak recognizes that differences exist between exposing film to daylight and exposing it to tungsten. For example, for any given filter (with the exception of green and the polarizer, for reasons I can't explain) there's a difference in the filter factor for shooting under daylight and for shooting under tungsten. You can see those differences here for both daylight and tungsten <I>See</I>, "Tech Pub F-4017" (scroll down until you come to the heading "Filter Corrections"):

    http://www.kodak.com/global/en/professional/support/techPubs/f4017/f4017.jhtml?id=0.1.22.14.23.16.14&lc=en#expose.

    Tungsten lights for portraits

    in Lighting Equipment

    Posted

    Also, keep in mind that you must downrate B&W film when shooting with tungsten lights. To find your working Exposure Index (EI) for the film you're using you need to divide the ISO by 1.5; for example, Tri-X under tungsten lights needs to be rated at an EI of 266 (ISO 400/1.5=EI 266). Hence, the closest film speed to 266 is 250.

    Trying to decide between Contax G2 and...? Help!

    in Accessories

    Posted

    Meryl has hit the nail on the head. I own the G2 with a 28, 35, 45, and 90. I love this camera because it's so easy to use and the pics are sharp as tacks. I tend to use only the 28 and the 45 most of the time (it's the only camera I have with lens as wide as the 28mm). The 35 does not get rave reviews; in fact, the Contax T3's 35mm (Sonnar) lens is actually better that the G2's 35mm lens.

     

    Whenever I don't want to lug around a film camera and lenses, I take the T3 with the adapter for the TLA200 flash, an off-camera synch cord and that's it. You'd be amazed at what that camera can do with filters and off-camera flash. I tend to use it without flash, though, where I can get away with it. I've taken party pics with both the G2 and the T3 (with the TLA200) and you'd be hard-pressed to tell me which camera took which pictures. Plus, the T3 actually does fill-in flash better than the G2. Fill flash with the G2 is a chore---it's not a simple matter. The T3 also has aperture priority. If your wife can live with the 35mm lens, go with the T3 with the adapters for off-camera flash and filters.

     

    Buona fortuna.

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