frank uhlig
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Posts posted by frank uhlig
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<p>But - secondary question - why do you want to fill your accessory shoe with a lightmeter? How will you read it on top of camera? Flip camera with meter on top into all sort of weird positions ... rather than read the light comfortably and well?</p>
<p>If your camera does not have a built in TTL lightmeter, then a hand-held one will do much better service: you can point it at the sun for indirect readings (no danger to your shutter possibility), you can point it anywhere and read it separately ... etc ...</p>
<p>There was the idea in the 1950/1960 that one needed a lightmeter built-in on top of the camera ... Many models of that age have it, many of us of that age have that silly notion, too.</p>
<p>Just a thought on going modern and much more feasible to work with ...</p>
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<p>What does the manual say? You have yours handy?</p>
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<p>How did you search? Tried Robert White?</p>
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<p>Be careful of mirror slap. If you really want to compare MF with rangefinder 35 mm at their best, do not use an SLR for one and a Leica for the other. That is apples to oranges.</p>
<p>Now a nice Rolleiflex TLR will put any rangefinder or Leica to shame (except maybe for the Contax G 2 with its superior lenses ... 21 Biogon ... oh my!).</p>
<p>But not any MF SLR; or other than the Flexes, try the Mamiya 6 or 7 and you will see!</p>
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<p>I have one of those original Contax straps myself, sitting in some box. You could have had it, but I thought you wanted a good strap?</p>
<p>Domke Gripper, 1 inch, with swivels ...</p>
<p>Anyway, a piece of hemp rope would have sufficed too, I guess. Your choice.</p>
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<p>Ok, SD.</p>
<p>It is time to learn google: put in "Domke Gripper UK" into google and out comes ... voila:</p>
<p>http://www.shoppingcomparison.co.uk/cheap_Domke-Gripper-Camera-Strap-Black.htm<br>
with a UK offer at L 16 ... google so divides the computer knowledgables for the nots, sorry, but this is so easy to learn!. </p>
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<p>Question reminds me of the constant dilemma between Paris and New York : where to go for city street pics?</p>
<p>Your choice, nobody can help you. Both places are quite different, Anza attracts me more, but is not quite suitable for a drive-through of one morning as Joshua may seem to be ... Either place takes a lot of knowledge, map reading, hiking in (and out! DON't get lost) etc. to get to the spectacular places. Count on a few days there.</p>
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<p>And a GND alone would not work, but HDR would: the sky is jagged and many stops lighter than the nearly same print luminosity reflection of it. So, learn to manipulate digitally to get stunning pictures that are not of this earth as we walk on, but from another - a computer - planet.</p>
<p>That besides the patience, equipment, knowledge of where to be at what time, a good tent, sleeping bag, ... permission to camp in the wilderness, ... etc. </p>
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<p>Arguing about using/or not of light meters delays the decision to use one only for so long and gets you so many wrong exposures. A complete waste</p>
<p>So, get a light meter, meter, learn to read film and see where you err. The meter is always right in what it does. The shooter, though, has to interpret the result and to be able do so intelligently and successfully, that takes time, experience, misses and successes to finally get it 99 % right.</p>
<p>Do not fear learning. we all have to, had to and now you must learn, too.</p>
<p>And when you have metered (in or out of camera) for a few years, decades, you will be able maybe to guess the perfect setting of f stop and speed ... and I still check with the meter. </p>
<p>So, learnt hard!</p>
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<p>Wow, Edward, I do not like freeze dried stuff, but prefer and recommend the Actatech Ultimate.</p>
<p>May I do that and live?</p>
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<p>Domke Gripper 1 inch</p>
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<p>Don't forget life insurance in a war zone may not be available to anyone.</p>
<p>Survive well! Have a safe return!</p>
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<p>What shutter speeds do use with the red filter? Which tripod, if slow? Rolleifix in place?</p>
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<p>Got the manual handy? Usually one can set the camera to take multiple shots on one frame. But in some you have to set this beforehand, in some after the first shot; so look into your manual ...</p>
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<p>google might be your best bet, other than keh ... adorama, b+h ... </p>
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<p>I second Stephen: close objects will give you a black look compared to the whitish fog. And I do like to use the full conrtast pallet in photos: deep black to bright white. And expose a stop longer or two than measured ...</p>
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<p>So, if the window glass all by itself cuts 10% of the outside light off, then reading from where you are taking the picture through the glass will a) measure the light the camera receives accurately (90 % of what is actually outside, a TTL type measurement indeed) and b) will alter the exposure insignificantly (if only 50% passes through the window this means one stop loss of light. so 10% pass-through loss is a smidgin of a stop = never mind).</p>
<p>So simply forget your worry, especially as you have never noticed any effect on your films, have you? right?! </p>
<p>[Or - maybe - is the camera set up outside and you measure and transmit that info somehow from the inside to the outside ??? Well that would only change exposure by a mere 10% (say), so why worry about less than a third of a stop?]</p>
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<p>If you stand in the shade of an umbrella and measure the direct sunlit beach beyond the umbrella, will the reading change if you hold the meter onto the same sand on the beach after having stepped out of the shade?<br>
If you meter the sand under the sunshade where you stand and then step out from under the umbrella and point to the shaded sand under the umbrella, will the reading change?<br>
What do you think are the answers?<br>
What do your pictures/film tell you? What is a light meter measuring?<br>
Tell us what is right in these situations, what is happening and why you worry, and about what, and last but not least what your film shows in failed exposures ... or does it not? </p>
<p>Think this one through and use reason and do experiment with your light readings from a dark room into a bright one, inside the same bright one, the reverse, etc etc. You have ample time indoors now that it has turned cold. Be scientific and learn to understand ...<br>
At the sunlit moon surface, what would you expose your film at? The same or differently than in the Sonora desert on a sunny day?</p>
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<p>Andy, can you tell us a bit about your technique used? Exposure? .... Feedback is what you want, so talk to us if you want feedback ... Or stay silent if you are too shy ... But then why did you ask?</p>
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<p>Neither will two filters fit at the same time on both taking and viewing lens, nor will the hinged double caps fit one lens with filter and another without.<br>
So simply protect your taking lens if you wish, measure the filter's inner diameter and fit a generic cap to it, as well as one to the viewing lens. All set then!</p>
<p>And sell/store your double hinged cap.</p>
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<p>10 out of your 12 posted pics have wanton angles of horizon tilt. Why?</p>
<p>To what aim, what message, how does that improve of composition? How was the tilt angle arrived at, realized? Why so tilted, and not the other way or another way? Why upsides down? ...</p>
<p>Are you conscious of this one "trick pony show" or not? And why ... Sorry these are good subjects, but my neck now hurts from twisting to see your pics ...</p>
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<p>If your heat is constantly above 70 F and your humidity above 70%, your lenses might develop fungus. But on the bright side with DSLRs, fungus will take longer to develop than until your camera becomes obsolete. So, I would not worry too much.</p>
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<p>Lowepro Orion AW ?</p>
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<p>Experience = the price of two rolls of film, maybe $ 10 total; toss those two (maybe try developing the first ...) . Gain of this experience: immeasurable.</p>
<p>Enjoy the learning experience. This happens to all of us, none of us is born perfect ... Grow and enjoy MF!</p>
How much finer grain to expect using superior lens optics
in Medium Format
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<p>Grain "sits" in or on the film. To get less grain from the same emulsion, you need to go to a larger negative so that you need less magnification to reach the desired print size. Lenses cannot physically create any grain all by themselves.</p>
<p>Wrong kind of horse whip here, sorry.</p>