freelance

Alistair, It seems that the results differ with a 300 L4. The 400 L 5.6 behaves worse with Tc's

 

http://www.photo.net/equipment/canon/300-4

Alistair. I agree with you about the use of a TC on a 50mm. Anyway, I have tried Canon 2x and 1,4x with a Canon 400 mm 5,6 +40D and in terms of details (not IQ), but to read letters and numbers, I see that a good resize over a razor sharp picture is better than the the result of a 2x and equal than a 1.4x. TC were very useful with 35 mm film, but in digital era their role is almost obsolete. Try it with a very sharp picture and look at it at 140%. With Sigma and Kenko TC's, the result is much worst.

The Canon 1.4X can't be mounted on the 50 f/1.4 and any other TC would produce bad pictures with the 50 1.4. Better resize it with one of the many tools for that. Even the Microsoft Picture Manager gets better results resizing a good and sharp picture than getting it with a third part TC. And this might be applied to Canon TC's as well if you could use it.

If the pictures are for serious project you would need some other gear. But if it is just for showing to friends or to sell a house, you can follow Groff Mower's advice of just take a few pictures with the 18-55 at 18 covering the whole scenery.

If you write "justen valleau" in Google, you can only see your post. He doen't exist.

I had several FD lenses and bougth a cheap converter in Ebay. With extension tubes, you can shoot macro. But you can shoot macro as well with an EF lens and the tubes. You don't have to buy FD lenses for that.

Sorry for my first comment. I did not know you were looking for a telephoto. Now I understand your position. From my non expert point of view, I would clasify the telephotos in two classes: the ones you can use without tripod and the ones for which you need a tripod, and a remote. I have a few of the second ones and I am also looking for a affordable and not very heavy lens that I can use handholding the camera. As I haven't decided yet I am using fot that pictures (generally details of works) a Panasonic Z50.

"The reason I initially discount the 85mm is because I already have a 50mm which I don't use mostly because it isn't 'different' enough from my 20mm."

 

Can you translate it?

 

"What does "Soft Focus" mean?"

Read the review of the lens.

 

http://www.photozone.de/canon-eos/359-canon-ef-135mm-f28-sf-lab-test-report--review

 

Try to explain what you want to get.

Have a look at the light problems of the lens:

 

http://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthread.php?t=205527<div></div>

Concerning the MP-E65 you probably will need a head like the one in the picture to use it:

 

More about the lens:

 

http://www.ojodigital.com/foro/noticias-de-portada-de-ojodigital/46854-canon-mp-e-65-el-gran-desconocido.html<div></div>

If you have the intention to upgrade to full frame, the widest lens is the Sigma 12-24, and the sharpest the Nikon 14-24 with an adaptor that cost more that 300$ and three months to receive (There is a waiting list). I am happy with the Sigma for architectural works, it is very sharp. It is AF, but to get good results you have to use it MF and learn the right positions.(No valid for events or low light). I have the 16-35 as well but I'll have to learn how to use it. It is not just point and shoot.

If you are wide angle oriented, if your pictures have to be wide, choose the 5D. If you are tele oriented (if you are going to shoot birds or other distant object), go for the 40D. If you need speed (6fps), go for the 40D (The 5D is 3 fps)

Look at the specifications:

 

http://products.lowepro.com/product/CompuRover-AW,1923,16.htm

I have both. I use the 85 for outside and 50 for inside (either with the 40D or with the 5D). My 85 has a faster focus and a better bohek (both wide open). In rappid series, I get more pictures out of focus with the 50 1.4. At low light is excellent, nevertheless.

You can read two more examples of the "soft lens syndrome" in this two threads:

 

http://www.photo.net/canon-eos-digital-camera-forum/00PRaZ

 

http://www.photo.net/canon-eos-digital-camera-forum/00QKgM

I am talking with the lenses wide opened and with a 5D

Anyway, I think that most wide angles have been design to render good pictures in semicircle, with the edges of it closer to the shooter. If you use center autofocus, the edges normally are soft if the scenario is rectilinear. This happens to me with the Sigma 12-24 and Canon 16-35. Probably there is a better method to do the pictures, but when I have a bid landscape, I use manual focus with the Sigma at point a bit less than infinitum. With the Canon, I try to focus manually the edges, or the farther edge if the other is closer (is it something related with hyperfocus?) and I get good pictures. I don’t know if there is a better way, and I would like to know it, as I cannot use the 16-35 AF in events, parties, etc. (at 16mm) with flash as the quality of the pictures are not acceptable. The lens is OK as I have tested it. But I bought it not for landscapes or architectural work, but to shoot a lot of quick pictures getting a lot of people at the same time. Most of the people are normally out of focus.

 

 

I don’t mind you laugh. :)

I understand Steve. Buyers never complaint for excess of information. In the same way that many point and shoot camera explain: "35-420 equivalent in 35 mm", EF-S lenses sellers, and some of them do, should explain the equivalence of the lens. It would no do any harm.

With TCs and specially 2x you always lose light and sharpness.

And try to send crops from the center and from the edges.(Or from the parts you consider soft). But from pictures where softness be the EXCLUSIVE defect.

When you buy a lens you have normally fifteen days to send it back. You have the lens a few months. I doubt they accept it either in Adorama or Sigma.

The parts of the picture that can be seen are not soft. Try to send a better sample.

And I would like to be as expert as Yakim. Happy shooting!

''Yakim, I don't understand the "10 second shutter delay", how, and why? I'll check the manual, but you may have a quickershort-cut method...''

 

I think you are joking, Doug. I thouhgt you were a beginner...

The 10 seconds shutter delay is the function you use when you want to take a picture of yourself (The camera alone). You use it if you do not have a remote shutter in order not to move the camera at the moment of the shooting. Even with a tripod, if you shoot at e.eg. 800 mm, you move the camera when pressing your finger.

 

A clock appears when you activate the shutter delay. It is in the same place that "one photo function", "a rapid series", "a high rapid series" (some cameras) and the "clock". You can put it to three seconds in some cameras.