j._queue

<p>Steve McCurry</p>

<p>hehehe. I agree with Owen.</p>

<p>I just had a moment of clarity and dug out the original purchase receipt for my FE. Today was the 60th day of KEH's 60 day warranty. I called and explained the problem noting the date of purchase and they told me to send it in for replacement. Like Michael noted, the repair cost would be more than the replacement cost. Short story is that KEH is great!</p>

<p>I am using a 'new to me' Nikon FE and I've ran about 12 rolls of film through it with no major problems. I have noticed that a few of the exposures are close to each other on the film strip but never gave it much thought. I shot and developed a roll yesterday and noticed that there are overlapping exposures on the roll. I have included a scan of that section of film below. </p>

<p>The problem could be user error but each time film is loaded it is tight and the teeth are in the sprocket holes. I am thinking it is more of a mechanical problem due to its age. Can this problem be easily fixed, possibly from a CLA, or is it a more involved repair? If so, who would be a reputable person to contact for a repair?</p><div></div>

<p>Thanks Larry! :)</p>

<p>I recently purchased a bottle of RO9 from Freestyle and now I'm not sure of which dilution/time to use because the Massive Dev Chart on digitaltruth.com has an entry for 'RO9' and 'RO9 New'. Should the bottle state 'New' or what? Question is, how do I determine which version I have? </p>

I was actually thinking that the EI could vary on a given roll of film when using Diafine since it develops at fixed 3+3.

Thanks for pointing that out Bryan.

First, thanks to everyone for all of the feedback. It is very helpful.

 

Now, according to the Massive Dev Chart Tri-X 400 will be pushed to a rating of 1600. That means that the next time I

need to shoot in a low light situation that I can set the dial to 1600 and, in theory, the photos should turn out reasonably

fine.

I am somewhat new to the process of developing my own film. I have been using Tri-X 400 with Diafine. During my reading here on

photo.net and other sites I see people stating that they like to rate Tri-X at other speeds (ie 800, 1250, 1600). I can't seem to get my head

around this. How do I go about rating Tri-X at, say, 1600? I am using a Nikon FE so would it be as simple as setting the film speed index

dial to 1600? Also, what are the pros and cons of doing this? If I wanted to use Tri-X 400 in a low light setting, I would not want to set the

dial to 1600 but rather 200. Since it is a 400 speed film, setting the film speed dial to 1600 is going to let in less light resulting in an

underexposed negative, right? Any help would be appreciated as I am confused.

I just developed my first roll of film! It is hanging in the shower to dry. I feel good about the process. However, I forgot to

do a complete wash. It was a rather short one (~1 minute). Not that these are important photos, but what happens when the

wash is not thorough?

Galen and Randall, thanks for taking the time to give in-depth responses. I feel much better about the process now. I will

post an update when I am successful.

 

Larry, thanks for the tip. I will keep it in mind. To justify my use of Arista II film, it was on sale at Freestyle and I figured it

would be good fodder for learning the process. ;)

I have decided to take the plunge and start developing my own b&w film. It is something that I have wanted to do for some time now. I

am asking questions that I have not found answered elsewhere. Most of my readings have not included these particular chemicals and I

don't know what they are equivalent to under a different brand. If these questions have been previously answered then feel free to point

me to the appropriate url. Below is a list of recently purchased materials and all relevant instructions taken directly from their packaging.

 

Materials:

 

Film -- I am shooting Arista II b&w film.

 

Jobo 1520 UniTank -- Rotation: 240ml. Inversion: 485ml.

 

Diafine -- May be used at any temp between 70 to 85F with 3 minutes in each sol'n. Instructions straight forward and no difficulty here.

 

Arista: Universal Fixer -- A 1:4 dilution.Fix for 1 to 3 min at 68 degrees. Final fixing time should be twice as long as it takes film to clear.

 

Arista: Hypo Wash -- A 1:7 dilution. Wash for 5min using good water flow. Immerse film in hypo-wash for 5min using occasional

agitation.

Wash films an additional 5 minutes in running water. Use wetting agent if desired for 30 sec with no agitation. Dry films.

 

Arista-Flo Wetting Agent -- A 1:200 dilution. Add to final rinse bath for uniform drying.

 

Questions:

 

1. Why are two different amounts listed on the tank (240 vs 485)? I have read over the instructions several times and not entirely sure

how much chemical to use. I was going to use 485ml just to make sure there is enough chemical in the tank but I don't want to be

wasteful if there is no need to be.

 

2. Can I pour used Diafine sol'n A and sol'n B back into their respective 1 gallon containers? I have read conflicting reports on this.

 

3. The Arista: Universal Fixer bottle reads "Final fixing time should be twice as long as it takes film to clear." Now, would I be correct in

taking that statement to mean fix for 6 minutes (3min for diafine sol'n A plus 3min for diafine sol'n B)?

 

4. Should I mix 1 gallon amounts for each chemical? If so, can I pour the Fixer, Wash, and Wetting Agent back into their respective

containers after use?

 

I am not entirely clear about the wash and wetting agent and obviously I have not attempted to develop anything yet. All

suggestions/tips will be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

Thanks all for the help. Nolan, great link.

 

When I open a picture and go to Image -> Image Size within Photoshop the resolution states

180 ppi (is this the actual ppi reading for the image or a default value?). Does this mean that I

need to resize the image first by specifying a ppi of 300 or does the crop tool do that? With

the crop tool, I am am using the previously mentioned settings, a size of 8x10 and a ppi of

300.

I need some assistance when it comes to formating images to be printed. I have a professional go-to guy

that deals with the actual print process. However, I can't seem to get the correct format down. I want to

print a few photographs as 8x10. When I do, it seems that they look grainy, stretched out, or something

has been cropped. I have searched the internet for a basic how-to but came up short. Part of the problem

is that I don't exactly know what to ask. I have been using Photoshop CS2 for all of my image formatting,

so maybe someone can share a few tips or point me in the right direction. I don't understand how to take

an image taken with a 10.1 mp camera and crop/cut/resize it so that it looks good as an 8x10 (or even an

11x14). I need to figure this out because my trial and error process is getting expensive. :(

 

Thanks in advance.

Since our discussion has moved to the Nikon D80 (sorta), does the D80 support SDHC

memory cards or just the regular SD memory cards? The Nikon site states SD memory card

for the D80 but I don't know if the two card types are swappable with this camera. :)

Herman, you are correct about the D80 feeling better in the hand. I just returned from my

local camera shop in the mall. While there, I had the chance to compare the D40/D40x, XTi,

and D80. Overall, the D80 felt much better. When holding the other two, it felt as if my pinky

was left out of all the action. It also felt more solid. :)

Thanks for all of the comments. Let's assume that I purchase the D40x, should I buy the kit

or just the body and a different lense? Oh the decisions. . .

I am finally making the transition to digital and looking at the Canon Rebel XTi as well as the Nikon D40x.

I would like suggestions on which one to go with. I would classify myself as an experienced amateur but

looking for outside opinions on this decision. Currently, I have a Nikon N65 film camera with one lense so

I don't have a lot of Nikon equipment that would justify purchasing the D40x. Also, I was told that the

Rebel, since it uses compact flash, is prone to bent pins. I couldn't tell if the person was trying to make a

Nikon sell or if they were being genuine. Is this a concern I should consider when making my decision?

Thanks.