keith_leonin

If you shoot a lot, it may be worth the money to buy a Quantum battery pack. Recycle times are negligible -- just don't get carried away or you could fry your SB800.

Evan - not necessarily.

I realize this question is a moot point, but I'm curious. At B&H, the 35/2.5

Summarit-M sells for $1495, while the 35/2 ZM Biogon sells for $877.

 

If pricing was the same?

 

1) @ $877, which one would you buy? Why?

 

2) @ $1495, which one would you buy? Why?

</center><P align="left">ha, ha... thanks a lot Craig -- Trying to get a fellow SoCal photographer expelled from photo.net?

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Unofrtunately, it probably IS my fault. Hopefully, this fixes it.

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Cheers!

Do you already shoot APX400, but until recently, have had them developed at a lab? Did you like the results from that lab? If so, you may want to find out what developer they used.

 

My response would be HC-110 (Dil B), XTOL (1+1 or 1+2) or Diafine (@500 EI) -- Why? Because those are the developers I'm most familiar with. Others will respond according to their own experiences and what you'll get is a whole laundry list of developers.

 

Simple directions (35mm or 120):

 

1) In complete darkness/changing bag, load film onto reel, then place reel in tank. Place light-tight cover on tank.

 

2) You may turn on the light. Pour developer into tank. Agitate (different ways/methods/preferences to do this).

 

3) Stop bath for 30-45 seconds.

 

4) Fixer for 6-8 mintues

 

5) Water wash - about 30-45 seconds

 

6) Hypo clearing agent - 1-2 minutes

 

7) Water wash - about 5 minutes

 

8) 1 ltr water, 2.5ml Photo Flo, 30ml rubbing alcohol - 1-2 minutes

 

9) Hang to dry -- preferably in humid area. Attach a clothespin to the bottom of the roll.

 

10) Make sure you wash out the tank THOROUGHLY before you use it again -- you don't want residue from the Photo Flo mixture when you develop your next roll.

 

Good luck!

 

KL

BTW - here's a shameless plug; taken at Universal Studios, with a DSLR -- it's all about capturing the moment.

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I would actually pick #4 (DSLR + WA and tele zooms) AND one of the P&S (+film) as a backup. Keep the P&S with you at all times -- pocket, fanny pack or whatever.

 

Would there be rides that you would go on (and where you cannot take your DSLR), that your dad or your wife would not go on? if so, then leave the DSLR with them. If they both want to ride, and IF you cannot bring along the DSLR on the ride, then you'd just have to settle on being a spectator -- then whip out the tele zoom and snap away.

I have a Lowepro Toploader 75 (with chest harness) and 2 extra Lowepro lens cases that you can attach to the outside of the Toploader.

 

Since it has a chest harness, access is very fast -- it's right in front of you -- whether walking, hiking, biking, skiing, riding a horse, etc...

 

Keith

From the hotel website -- Downtown highlights within 5 miles of the Wilshire Grand:

 

LA Convention Center

 

Staples Center

 

Walt Disney Concert Hall

 

University of Southern California

 

Dorothy Chandler Pavilion

 

L A Mart

 

California Mart

 

Fashion District / Santee Alley

 

Little Tokyo

 

Museum of Contemporary Arts

 

Performing Arts Center

 

Historic Union Station

 

Olivera Street

 

China Town

 

CA Science Center

Wilshire Grand is in downtown, so bring a comfortable pair of walking shoes and just wander about. I thnk there's a Metro station across the street, so hopping on a train could be an option.

 

If street photography is your thing, you'd be in a "target-rich" environment.

<i>I disagree whole-heartedly that someone's age should be a criteria upon which to decide whether or not to get a digital SLR. -- M Barbu</i>

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You can disagree all you want, since you're obviously missing the point.

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Age in and of itself is not a constraint, but age 17, coupled with "starting out" and especially when the OP has obvious concenrs about her budget obviates the DSLR as an option. She is not going to learn more or faster with a DSLR versus a very capable P&S like a G9, so from that perspective, and taking heed of ALL of my points would allow her to progress more effectively. A less expensive G9 + software + media cards + all the other peripherals and accessories gives her am more COMPLETE start into photography compared to buying a DSLR and some kit lens.

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Another point, and perhaps OF PRIMARY IMPORTANCE to the OP, is that NO POST -- yours, mine or anyone else's -- is a valid criteria upon which to decide whether or not the OP should get a DSLR. THE ONLY VALID CRITERIA for that decision is whether or not the OP really wants one. And that's for her, and her alone, to decide.

You're 17 and starting out...

 

1) Forget the DSLR and fretting over which lenses to buy. Get a good digital point & shoot, such as the Canon G9 -- I think they go for about $500 or less.

 

2) Forget about film (for now) -- stay with digital, since a big part of your education will be the quick feedback that you get from the pictures you take.

 

3) Buy photo editing software, and learn to use it.

 

4) Join/participate in online forums post your pictures online, and solicit feedback from others.

 

5) You're 17, so I'm sure you have a myspace or facebook page -- display your pictures there. I think facebook and flickr have some easy to use interface.

 

6) Get good grades, high SAT scores and get into a good college.

For fine and sophisticated, and/or to promote a service or sell, you definitely want to go with asukabook.com. It's more expensive and more work.

 

For inexpensive, straightforward, easy to use, quick and dirty personal use albums, I use mypublisher.com -- great value.

Right lens, WRONG STORE!

 

Beware: http://www.resellerratings.com/store/Sonic_Cameras

 

Only shop from reliable stores.

Aaron, Randall - While I would typically shoot slides, it's not as straightforward as that since I am talking about a HIGH CONTRAST situation (desert region in the summer), and since I will scan whatever I shoot (as I stated earlier), it could become very dicey.

 

Anyway, thanks for you input, but I will likely stick with the greater latitude.

I think what you're talking about is correct for the D80. However, AFAIK, the D300 bulb setting requires you to press and hold down the shutter for extended exposures (correct me if I'm wrong). So, no, the ML-3 will not allow you to do that with the D300.

 

For the D300, your option would be to get a wired Nikon MC-30, or a Phottix wireless remote (from ebay) -- this works on RF, not IR -- anecdotally, it seems to work.

 

Keith

You're not exactly going out to the boonies, so I'd say go to an internet cafe and upload your images to an online site. It doesn't haurt to have add'l cards AND a portable drive on top of that.

Others can correct me if I'm wrong, but I believe the magnification ratio is calculated is: 200mm/500mm = .4. So, an incremental improvement to roughly 1:2 magnification for a lens (18-200) that already has a pretty close minimum focusing distance.

 

I honestly don't know if that incremental gain is enough to warrant what may become an interim macro solution -- your call.

 

I'd say try close-ups with a "naked" 18-200mm first, and if that doesn't meet your needs AND IF you have the money, then get a 1:1 macro lens.

Jethro<div></div>

Get an Epson R-D1S (or an M8 if you have the $$$$), and with your M6, you'll have the best of both worlds on your travels.

 

 

KL

Heck, why didn't you say so in the first place? Describing your project on your original post would have gotten you the responses you may have been looking for rather than "film will be around for a while" responses.

 

Specifically for your project, you can basically dispatch people from your church to Gooodwill stores and have them pick up P&S cameras for $1-$2 each. Alternatively, you can go to eBay and search for "toy cameras" -- which are perfectly serviceable P&S cameras.

While there's nothing wrong with looking through someone's elses photos to find inspiration, it doesn't mean "jack" if you don't take the next step. Vision and inspiration WITHOUT execution is nothing but a fantasy.

 

So, I say, just take your camera in hand and start taking pictures. It'll come, and at some point, you'll find that niche.

 

If you check out my gallery -- yes, shameless plug -- at http://klix.smugmug.com from the bottom up, you'll see my own progression in finding that vision.

 

Good luck!

 

KL

I bought an Epson R-D1S a couple of months ago (matsuiyastore on eBay), and am certainly glad I did.

 

My primary reason? Probably same as most other DRF owners -- TO BE ABLE TO USE M LENSES ON A DIGITAL BODY.

 

If your reason for wanting a DRF is the same, then you ONLY have those 2 options.

Travis - this doesn't answer your question, but provides another alternative.

 

Consider the Kinesis Gear backpack -- essentially a large backpack with internal "rails" to which you can attach smaller Kineses bags, such as one of their camera bags.

 

By using this setup, and assuming you pack light, you can basically have all of your clothes AND your camera gear (within reason, i.e., no 500mm lenses) in ONE backpack which meets carry-on limits. Imagine traveling without having to check in luggage.

 

When you get to your destination, you can then remove the camera bag and carry it like any shoulder bag for day to day use. You'll have to add your own shoulder strap, so maybe get a Pac-Safe strap for that. If you want to "disguise" the camera bag, you can insert it into a cheap canvas messenger bag.

 

KL

Since you are going to be scanning, can't you solve the dark shadows issue during processing? -- Jospeh

 

Hi Joseph - yes, IF there is sufficient detail there to solve. What I'm truly afraid of is having blocked up shadows to begin with. In any case, since I have to decide pretty quickly so I can have some practice before my trip, I'll likely go with negative film for the greater latitude -- probably Fuji Pro 160s to start with.

 

Thanks all.

 

KL