jim_manganella
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Posts posted by jim_manganella
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<p>Usually the kit zoom lenses are lacking in f stop. A f/2.8 Nikkor zoom might be a step up from what you have but it's not required. Other than this you're probably good to go, quit worrying about needing more equipment & start focusing on Italy with a good guide book! You will also need an international drivers license for nearly all the car rentals. These are available through AAA.</p>
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<p>The prime lens will deliver better clarity & sharpness as a general rule.</p>
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<p>Been to Italy & done that. Honestly you will get more use out of your standard zoom lens. Some things like in the towns are up close & in your face, the countryside is far reaching.</p>
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<p>Ask them which one THEY would like to buy. See if they are willing to pay for it. Their answer will tell you something. Stock photography is a tough sell.</p>
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<p>Did you actually sell them there?</p>
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<p>I second what Dan says, 1/3 of the way in.</p>
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<p>To really simplify things to get you going, shoot Aperture Priority (f/5.6), ISO 400, from a tripod preferrably with a cable release though not required. You then let the camera make all the other decisions such as how long the shutter stays open (probably around 11 seconds or so for street scenes). That's it. Keep it simple, let the camera do the work.</p>
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<p>Don't you just love the honesty that comes from a camera. There's only so much you can do with what you have to work with. The truth is a bottle of damage control hair conditioner would solve most the problems.</p>
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<p>A 50 mm is not taking you very far from where you are now. The 85mm f/1.8 would be a better choice.</p>
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<p>You simply need a card with a faster write speed for that type of use. I upgraded from a Lexar 200x to a Sandisk Extreme 300x & will never go back. However I shoot all jpegs. For rapid fire RAW you will need faster still.</p>
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<p>Try printing at Mpix.com</p>
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<p>Maybe make the border wider so if it is off a little it won't be as noticeable.</p>
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<p>Nothing takes the place of a well executed & exposed photograph to begin with. Concentrate more on this and less on the plugins & gimmicks you can get caught up in.</p>
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<p>If you have a vibration reduction lens you can throw these theories out the window. I've shot a lot at 200mm, 1/60th sec with excellent results. This is using a Nikon.</p>
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<p>An umbrella.</p>
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<p>A fixed lens will always produce better quality than a zoom.</p>
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<p>Thanks for you comments. In an ideal world and what HP leads us to believe is your assumptions would be correct as they should be. However none applied to the specific problem I was having. The HP paper, the grayscale settings, neither worked. Actually I was getting improved results with Kodak paper.</p>
<p>Now for color with the HP printer settings & the default ICC profile, it's spot on but for B/W - not, it tints sepia. Actually I'm getting even better B/W results with an ICC profile of Nikon sRGB instead of the Nikon Adobe RGB... Apparently HP Photosmart has a problem with the output from a Nikon D3 and among others I'm sure.</p>
<p> </p>
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<p>Solution Found: John you did make me turn and take a deeper look at the printer. The adjustment needed was a Color Management>Devices setting. I added and changed the default ICC Profile to Nikon Adobe RGB. That took the sepia tint out... Thank you.</p>
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<p>Thank you guys for your assistance. Yes, I only use new HP ink cartridges and have never used a refill kit. I think we've about got it down to the paper. I just ordered a small pack of Ilford Galerie Gold Fibre Silk Paper to see how that does. Any recommendations for a true black & white paper for an inkjet printer?</p>
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<p>I do have the option to print in grayscale / high quality or black ink only. You would think this would work but I still get the sepia tint. I'm starting to look at the paper. Perhaps color paper is throwing it off...</p>
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<p>I've got an HP Photosmart Premium (touch screen, all-in-one). It seems no matter where I set the settings the black & whites always come out with a sepia tint. Papers used have been HP & Kodak. Any ideas to a solution? My color photos are spot-on.</p>
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<p>I think you've pretty well answered your own question. This isn't rocket science. Take a shot, see what you've got & make an aperture adjustment if needed.</p>
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<p>My advice is to leave it alone. Let somebody else do it. If you don't pull it off with good results where does that leave you & especially with your wife working there.</p>
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<p>Shoot jpeg and keep it simple. That Nikon is good enough that you don't need to complicate things with RAW adjustments & conversions. I like shooting aperture priority. Set the A to the amount of background blur you want & let the camera do the rest, f/5.6 is a good place to start. The results will be better and with more control than the P mode. I use a Nikon D3, trust me.</p>
What is wrong with this photo - sky color is unnatural
in Beginner Questions
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