jim_manganella
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Posts posted by jim_manganella
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<p>Looks like Rob & Keith are the experts... that can't get along!<br>
My bad I should have said processed at 300 DPI during the editing/resizing which MOST CERTAINLY plays a part in the final output quality for viewing & for printing.</p>
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<p>Were you shooting at 300 DPI resolution? Did you reduce the quality any when you resized & saved it for the internet? That's what it looks like. I bet the banding is not there in the high-res.</p>
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<p>Good luck. Having done a number of indoor arenas with rodeo, if it's night with all overhead lights, the dirt will suck the light out of the room. Nothing you can do about that. You'll find much better results out of doors during daylight. I don't even take the camera to an indoor arena at night anymore.</p>
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<p>To make a long story short and to get you going now... using the f/1.8 prime lens, set the camera to Aperture Priority with a low setting of 1.8 to 2.8 to blur the background. Everything else such as shutter speed will fall into place.</p>
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<p>The world is shooting digital now. Ask Kodak.</p>
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<p>Approach low light images with a good lens with a fast f/stop, crank the ISO up to whatever is needed and deal with the noise (grain) later. Neat Image is a great program for noise reduction. A flash kills the natural colored lighting of a bar. Stay away from the flash.</p><div>
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<p>For black & white conversions, Nik - Silver Efex Pro.</p>
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<p>If you feel it's needed - calibrate your monitor to look like the print.</p>
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<p>Why take a camera that's "short of washed out grey scale photos? ... leave the problem child at home.</p>
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<p>Start with "bright, colorful and vivid" subjects and settings...</p>
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<p>You might see what Sigma has. I purchased a Sigma 120-400 mm f/4.5-5.6 lens for $1000 at B&H Photo. It's my only lens that isn't Nikkor and I love it. The VR is great for handheld. The focus is super sharp and it's a great lens without breaking the bank. A Sigma fixed 300 mm f/2.8 is $3400.</p>
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<p>I was only using that photo as a readily available example. That is not my photo or article. The point I'm trying to make is this same thing can be done without stacking and erasing. Take it away Tom, I'm done with it.</p>
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<p>Mulitple Exposure Setting - Nikon</p><div></div>
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<p>Tom - with all due respect you are absolutely wrong in regards to your comment about the images appearing ghostly using the multiple exposure setting on a Nikon D3.</p>
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<p>It's a multiple exposure setting on some cameras. My Nikon D3 has it. I can set it to shoot any number. You must use a tripod for the best results so the background stays set.</p>
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<p>The problem is the aperture of the cheaper lens you have. Upgrade to at least a f/2.8 lens or simply crank up the ISO.</p>
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<p>If you have the same problem with all auto settings it's possibly something wrong with the camera.</p>
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<p>The higher the aperture the more depth of field. As a general rule, which is all you need, start at f/8 then inch up to f/16 if need be.</p>
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<p>All of the above works. I prefer the external hard drive and for the more important photos I will also back them up to a CD or DVD. This works fine unless your house burns down then you wish you had internet storage... your decision.</p>
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<p><strong>Neat Image</strong> is the best I've found, far superior to what PS can do. Also available as a PS plugin.</p>
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<p>For small quantities of prints up to 8x10 at home I've been very happy with an HP Photosmart printer. Price range is usually $100-$200. A lot of prints or enlargements over 8x10, I go with Mpix.</p>
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<p>David, why is it you keep popping up on photo.net as the rules enforcer? Give it a rest. For someone that doesn't have but two photos to show...<br>
It's OK to post your question anywhere you want.</p>
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<p>Color Balance adjustment.<br>
David thanks for being our cop, good grief.</p>
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<p>I think you need to know the answers to these questions, how to use your equipment and what you're doing before you "get started in the business".</p>
First photos with 7d - issues with increasing contrast
in Beginner Questions
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