panoramic pei

The whole idea behind this: is to create a true panoramic format, as a Hasseblad Xpan for example.

Cropping 120 film is not a true panoramic format. This actually worked out well with an earlier S Motorized

Back, although I abandoned the project a few years ago due to the collective weight with a heavy duty tripod in the field.

Presently photographing with a Fuji GSW690 III, modified for 35mm film produces a 24mm x 80mm panoramic format frame.

Some images here:

Good idea to place the Prism Finder on hold, once you start doing weights close to 5 pounds with what you will already have,

The massive size of the Mamiya RB makes everything feel much heavier.

The Prism Finder will add a extra 2 pounds for the earlier version, 1 1/2 pounds for the Prism Finder 2......

you might want to pass on the Prism Finder idea once you receive the complete outfit & settle for the lightest option, the WLF you already own..

Agreed, I requested info regarding adapting a more current Digital Back to Bronica ETRSi, no responses from anyone even if there are some options out there.

The Digital age of manufacturers followed suit of Computer manufacturers , faster, made cheaper, more profits with turnover, your Digital camera is obsolete in 6 months replaced by a new model.

Years ago in the Film camera era, camera manufacturers were going broke, photographers were hanging on to their quality cameras & lenses for decades.

Now Digital camera manufacturers = $$$$$, we will maybe get back to you.

An option would be to check for Demos at reduced pricing, possibly financing a balance.

Just like purchasing a vehicle.

To add, I modified my Ape Case (Backpack) to accommodate the RB with some small accessories. I was surprised I could take the RB (with all attached) out & place it back in the case via the Sling Door. The Ape Case has a great Tripod holder therefore living with a RB in the field became a little easier.

Agreed, C Watson, I just tested the RB on a higher quality lightweight Giottos tripod with a medium quality Ball Head (Korean Model).

Since I am photographing Panoramic Format Landscapes (75mm x 24mm with the RB) extensive camera movement isn't a priority.

When I position the tripod by extending the first legs all the way (the lighter legs or second section of the tripod legs are not extended at all) with the Ball Head straight up or with minimal tilt all is balanced perfectly & sturdy. With the Waist Level Finder the RB sits at a perfect height for viewing. The routine is also simple to repeat, no need to mark the tripod. I have a bubble level attachment I can place on the RB Flash Shoe since all the other bubble levels disappear due to the size of the RB.

Actually I have the RB SD with the 50mm, 6x8 Motorized Back (heavy) & WLF.

I believe the total weight is around 5.5 LBS, Add a Prism Finder 2, It will be up to 7 LBS, that will not happen...

Carry the RB around for an hour to warm up, I could then carry a Bronica ETRSi with the Winder, AE III Finder, 2-Metal- 35mm Panoramic W Backs, 30mm PE Fisheye, 40mm PE Lenses for days.

I managed some handheld shots with the RB, I recovered the camera with Ostrich Skin, great for a more secure grip but still uncomfortable to position the camera due to the combination of size & weight.

Photo of the camera here:

As C Watson mentioned "I never shoot Handheld"

I do have a sturdy Giottos tripod,

I think it's time to put it to good use, Grips are probably not the answer.

 

.

Anyone recommend some L-Shaped Grips they use for the Mamiya RB (SD) Camera ?

I am thinking the latest Mamiya RB L-Hand Grip would be best although perhaps

some earlier Mamiya or aftermarket brands could suit this camera equally as well.

Thanks in advance.

Ray,

I just received another Mamiya 6x8 Motorized Back which is probably a little earlier Model (Pro-S) to replace the one I tried with previously, a SD Model.

The Roller on the 35mm Film Cassette side where the counter is has a different Roller system, the Roller is also much thicker than the SD model therefore the 35mm Film thus far seems to travel normally, functions well stopping at #1.

I haven't fully tested (photographed & developed as yet) although so far, so good.

Great to know from the info you provided my options haven't run out, if this Back fails in the end results.

Yes Jim, the Back is designed for 120 or 220 Film although many photographers have loaded 35mm in Mamiya RB Backs. The RB Pro or RB Pro S Back are the ones they use to load 35mm Film.

I photograph Panoramic Format landscape with Bronica ETRSi & 35mm Panoramic (24mm x 54mm) W Backs, now I was attempting to reach a 24mm x 75mm Panoramic Format with the Mamiya RB 6x8 Back.

I will have to settle for a 24mm x 69mm Panoramic Format with a RB Pro S 6x7 Back.

My recommendation would be to contact Mamiya America or KEH to see if they can email you a schematic for the parts list for the lens which usually indicates the order they follow just to give you an idea of what you are up against. Ask how much the replacement parts would be & if your prefer not to replace the parts yourself, a estimate for the repair.

I doubt trying to straighten out a warped part will be a effective solution.

If repaired properly your stock will go up & you will have a proper functional lens to photograph with.

To continue to force the lens onto the camera doesn't sound right, for the long run.

You are correct Neil, that cog is the piece that operates the counter.

I am slowly progressing since my last post by trial & error.

Although if I tape this clog to the main roller the problem I encountered is that the 35mm cassette eventually moves & jams the main roller therefore prevents it from rotating & the clog to count to stop at one. I tried to distance the 35mm cassette from the roller with a spacer, but that only functions at intervals, I can get to #1 when the film is almost all through. I think I either have to look for a proven (probably earlier) RB 220 Back I can use or hack this back for permanent use with 35mm film only.

Jim,

I did refer to the manual, yes, the Back does function perfectly in manual mode by advancing the film by hand with the knob on top with a 120 roll film, although it will not stop at #1 when loading 35mm film. I can't figure out why the back detects a 120 Film, but does not detect there is a 35mm film loaded.

I was wondering if anyone has loaded a Mamiya RB 120/220 Motorized Back 6x8 or 6x7 with 35mm film with successful

results?

The 6x8 Back I have functions perfectly with 120 film in manual or motorized, tested with a test dummy 120 film.

When I load a 35mm dummy film 24 exposures with the plate on 120 or 220, the film will not stop on 1, in manual

or with the motor, it just keeps advancing until the 35mm roll is finished.

I can't seem to find the catch, latch or pin or whatever detects the 120 film is loaded & stops at #1.

I know this can be done easily with a normal 220 Back although I really wanted the 6x8 format, not necessarily

the motor.

Still not the best investment......

hopefully he could keep using that lens for many years to come, considering it's price or value compared to the camera.

Personally, I would pick the option for variety with much older equipment, pay less for the 80mm F2.8 version & invest the difference in price towards another lens for the outfit, a WA or Telephoto lens.

250£ or almost $400. US for a completely outdated Mamiya 645 ???

I really wouldn't have the nerve to sell you that camera for that price.....

no matter how badly I needed the money.

I recently purchased a (all current) Mamiya RB SD Body with 120/220- 6x8 Motorized Back & RB 50mm C Lens for $450. or 283£.

Hopefully you will have fun with it for many years to come.

The rattle I have isn't that faint, if I move the floating element ring the rattle will not be heard for about 2-3 inversions...

then it returns.

When I cock the Shutter (no camera as yet to test) by hand & release via the small button & swing down the pins to release the Shutter while still holding the button down everything seems normal. I am assuming that the camera will move the pins down since it doesn't take any force, although at times when I press the button a certain way (which is difficult to repeat twice in a row) the lens does the complete cycle on it's own.

Any selection for the diaphragm or shutter open or closed, the rattling sounds the same which could be good news as possibly the bearings. Also the shutter speeds all sound & appear accurate. I should know much more once I able to pass a film through.

<p>Personally I prefer the Bronica ETRSi System, I find for the theme I photograph Landscapes, this system has contributed to achieve some excellent results. I have photographed with the Mamiya Pro TL System previously, the AE Metering was the only disappointing experience in my opinion, other than that it was a great system. I find the Bronica AE III Finder much more accurate for Landscapes. Then again this review or comment is covering only one Photographic Theme.<br>

Link here for the some results with the Bronica ETRSi (& ETRS Camera) System:<br>

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/panoramicpei/">http://www.flickr.com/photos/panoramicpei/</a></p>

The above links give a better understanding of Mamiya RB Lenses regarding the bearings & rattling which is more likely the case with this lens. I can not see any movement of the lens elements, a similar sound happens when the lens isn't moved at all as I turn the floating element ring. Otherwise the glass is perfect & cosmetically the lens appears to be taken care of very well.

If the rattle (bearings) is no big deal, it's the results I am more interested in.

Better to wait for the RB SD Body & Back to arrive to test further.

I never owned any Mamiya RB gear in the past therefore all the information & replies have been very useful.

Thanks!

JD, your confirmation is greatly appreciated, now to find the box to return it.

I am curious what the well known Photographic Supply Dealer will respond since I asked the same question to them.

I wonder if I am alone with this issue? Maybe others are experiencing the same issue but never noticed it, hence resulting in not the sharpest images that some users complain about with this lens.

Norman, your response is greatly appreciated, sounds like a defect, probably best to return the lens in that case.

This has been driving me nuts, I posted the same question all over the web, this is the first bring it to the bank response I received.

Thanks again,

Hopefully someone whom owns a Mamiya RB 50mm C Lens can help me with this...

the lens I recently purchased makes a clicking sound when I tilt it in my hand as if glass is slightly shifting.

Wondering if this is normal due to the floating element or a defect.

The ring for the floating element is set at infinity.

I am still waiting for the Mamiya RB SD Body & Back to arrive to do further testing.

<p>My Unique Bronica ETRSi recovered with Ostrich Leather<br>

<a href="../photo/16476614&size=lg"><img src="http://d6d2h4gfvy8t8.cloudfront.net/16476614-md.jpg" alt="Bronica ETRSi Camera" width="680" height="608" border="0" /></a></p>

<p>Beautiful image, perfect colors & saturation for Landscape. Very similar to Velvia 100 Film with a little less saturation.<br>

120 Reala can be still be found at at very reasonable cost, the 35mm is a different story, imported. It would be great if Adorama would import it, I doubt Adorama would ask for $15.00 a Roll.</p>

<p>I calculated the cost as roughly .46 a Roll for the Bleach only. For the entire Process 1.34 a Roll.<br>

If I do not dilute the Bleach .67 a Roll for the Bleach. The entire Process $1.53 a Roll.</p>